ALFAGTV6.COM

How not to take a corner

What, wrong track? Missed out on some farming? Look mum no hands?

Don't know about your driving but the car looks the goods Kevin.

I think it's Kev's race car right? lovely

Car looks well composed and flat. Hey it's one of the few times guys will say "nice and flat" LOL!

Md, car is perfect in terms of handling, braking, gearratios and power,. Im must sort out roll cage , fuel catch tank and put my fiberglass doors on. Just got no time at the moment - trying to complete five soccer pitches for training for World Cup in 99 days time.
My alignment is 2.5 deg camber , 3 deg castor and 1mm toe OUT. The redline gearbox oil is doing the trick now must try find wider tyres to put this power down. I cant get anything wider than 205 in 15'' here so thats cars only handicap - along with the driver. To me I can finally say its the ultimate blend of power for me. At 4000rpm im getting the same power as a 3.0 12v motor at max power.
I really struggle to keep the car planted through the fast sweeps. Just when i thought I was making big power I saw the glenwoods new monster 3.7 TT pump out double my cars power plus 90kw on the wheels. I actually took the graph as its more than any of the new M3 TT BM's here. How the f*&^k they gonna keep that on te track who knows. Also 100kw more than the 155 mid mount TT.

Kevin,

Can't remember if you have have posted this info before elsewhere..
Q. What size rotors are you using up front and at the rear with 15"rims?
Q WHat's the pad material front and rear ?
Q How effective is the set up?
Q Are you using bias adjustment and how much?

The only minor handling suggestion I can see is perhaps a half to one more degree of camber and max out at 5 degress castor if you can get it but if it feels right now, dont fix it !

On my road car i had 3 degrees camber, about 7 degrees castor and 0 toe. Great handling, very neutral into light oversteer. But this was a 4 cylinder Giulietta.

Any pics and specs on the TT would be nice.

Any rear camber? I'm going to put -2 degrees each side on the dedion. 0 toe. then widen it by 1" on each side using spacers. Will widen the fronts to by 1/2 " each side. Already have about -3 degrees on the fronts.

Zamani,
That sounds pretty safe. All I can say is to keep the rear track equal to or inside the the front dimensions. Don't make the rears wider than the front is the golden rule unless you just want to do the drag thing and forget about going around corners...
(usually broken by Porche but that's another kit bag)

MD, Im using 305 x 28mm rotors in front with Performance friction 01 compound. Rear are SZ 22mm vent with Ferodo dsc 3000. . I find the initial heat curve of the ferodo is less steep which alows me to warm up fronts . No brake bias but thats coming in. If I did have one it would be in same position as current set up, unless it rains. I am struggling toget more castor as my front rims have huge offset with a 10mm spacer. Even though I have cut the body alot it still catches . Im also running a larger coil over with a 150mm spring which I got bilstein to specifically make for me. (good to know the owner).  This spring also limits my castor even though cut the uppers much bigger .Sold my RS kit for a fortune here . My tyre temps are within 10deg across tread with hottest on inside so pretty happy with camber. I think i got +- 190kg per side upfront(120kg spring 70kg 28mm torsion) with 65kg rear. Torsion bars are coming out next with 109kg springs replacing . hope my calcs are correct. Maurizio confrimed this a while back .
Technically I will be removing 60kg next with two doors and torsion bars. Doors 25kg each.

Oh , need to modify sump with baffles. Oil pressure was fluctuating hugely through bends . Mats and Jim had pics up somewhere - need help to find those again ?? Md , Jim ..anyone

Never mind any pics I have on the net, not anything that has been verified and not something I will use.

Haven't had any starvation problems (that I know of!) so far and no plans to make baffels.
The plan is to start logging oil pressure and then I'll know for sure.

Hi guys,
Regarding oil starvation, as Mats also said, I have never experienced this in the track, although I was fully prepared to address this issue expecting it to be a problem. Therefore, I thought up and cut an aluminum plate as shown in the pic. After some work, it fit perfectly in the V6 sump and allowed the smallest possible cutout for the pump. It was bolted to the sump partitions making for a solid mount. There were holes provided for the level sensor and dipstick. I was going to also open up some holes for the oil to drain through along the surface but the project was aborted when I decided to go for the Ishihara-Johnson Teflon-edged crank scraper for the present new engine instead. Don't ask me why, as both solutions could have been implemented just as well! I guess I'll never know if I made a mistake but I figured using both was overkill...however, they each serve a different purpose! In retrospect …I regret not using it.
Jim K.

Thanks a mill Jim. Perfect I had dangerously low pressure for split seconds on one of our tight tracks. It was shooting as low as 1.5 bar then back to 3.5 bar (with aprox same rev rainge). I have always had a custom sump on my old 166 motor to go over gear driven pump now I am back to standard GTV 6 sump on 164 block. Im running about 7L oil with cooler and large filter. My oil temp and pressure after an hour on dyno was ideal but the track brought out the gremlins.

Engine pull this weekend to remove sump. Tooks some pics of some possible gearbox conversions.

Yo Kevin.

Is that a Porche job ?