for ITBs why not use junked 45's and make aluminium flanges and weld them to existing TS mahifold ... i have done this but for delorto 40
merc valves are 114,9 mm long 46 mm dia and 8 mm stem ... but need to be maschined for TS collets they are almost identical to BMW m30 ones ... not heavy tulipe(like stock TS) and are concave=lighter than stock TS ..here pic off well ruined set ... dont laugh
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ruined new set :(
Picture1 082.jpg (128.19 KiB) Viewed 8497 times
note maschined step of flange for perfect fit :)
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thick walled alu tube 40mm ID turned on lathe to tight fit in carb body
TS_turbo wrote:
merc valves are 114,9 mm long 46 mm dia and 8 mm stem ... but need to be maschined for TS collets they are almost identical to BMW m30 ones ... not heavy tulipe(like stock TS) and are concave=lighter than stock TS ..here pic off well ruined set ... dont laugh
I am also using those MB valves. New lock grooves on the pic looks just similar to mine.
I've been thinking about trying flat type valves on TS someday. Does anybody have experiences about that? I've heard so many conflicted conceptions, but not seen any real test results on TS engines..
oh flat back valves? of course i have ruined new set stock TS to convert them to flat back Jim K. do not recomend them other very knowledgeable guy Guy Croft too ... you can see my "moded" vlaves in background of pic ..btw this is bullet nose bronze guides replasement of stock cast iron ones
How about the valve guide protrusion into the port? I've seen some ports, mostly modified Honda B-series heads, almost no valve guide protrusion. Flushed with the ports. But doesn't that accelerate valve guide wear since, I'm assuming, they're cutting the guide to a shorter length.
cuted guides = no good for high lift cams and heavy valves ..
P.S http://www.guy-croft.com/viewtopic.php?t=199 nice info about valve shape ..this is for fiat twin cam ..very close to alfa twin cam too
Progress is rather slow but we are getting somewhere!
Control of ignition and fuel will be taken care of by an Emerald ecu. It's quite affordable and more important, here in Holland there are some guys capable of tuning them very well. I've got my hands on a beautiful intake manifold and 45 Jenvey throttle bodies.
The engine itself is in the machine shop awaiting balancing of the crank, flywheel and pully. Lightening, balancing and shotpeening of the rods. Cleaning and line honing of the block itself and cleaning an porting of the head. I will use the stock valves as my machinist advised against using 46 mm inlet valves. A good job will require a lot of work(cost) and he is worried we will run into problems with the valve cutouts in the pistons. He never has done a 46 mm valve job on a Alfa TS head, including the head for a 230 hp TS engine. That head has "normal" 44 mm valves.
I'm still in the dark with the cams and the pistons. The people who have actually built 200+ hp efi TS engines here in Holland advised not to go over 10,5:1 compression because you will experience a lot of detonation. I know this sounds very weird, but these guys found out the hard way and they are respectable tuners/builders. They would increase CR if they could. What could be wrong? Those compression numbers are less than current production engines! What to do?
I will take some pics of the goodies I have scored!
Dennis wrote: The people who have actually built 200+ hp efi TS engines here in Holland advised not to go over 10,5:1 compression because you will experience a lot of detonation. I know this sounds very weird, but these guys found out the hard way and they are respectable tuners/builders. They would increase CR if they could. What could be wrong? Those compression numbers are less than current production engines! !
sound verry strange ... 10.5 CR , wild cams and detonations ? i tryed 11 CR(nord rods) with all other stock(cams) and didnt have detonations with 98 fuel .... for pistons if you plan to put oem pistons get 164 TS pistons .. they are more modern design short and partial skirts and shorter(lighter) pin
I know it's wierd, that's why I'm trying to find out what could be wrong. They are still experimenting but obviously they're not willing to tell me what they are up to. Good tip about the oem pistons!
What kind of rollcage are you using? Do you have pics? How heavy? I was thinking of having the cage attach to the firewall as well. I guess that would make it a 8-pt cage. Is yours like that?
Looking at image 1549, the angle of the intakes on the manifold looks good. It is the same angle that I am anticipating to do when the porting the head is finished. The only concern I have at the moment is under bonnet clearance once I add the ITB's, rams and air box. Something is gonna give. I can see a hole in the bonnet emerging as we speak.
Ideally, it should all be in a straight line hence the quandry.
Zamani,
The cage is extended to the front suspension towers. I need the stiffer front end because I'm running coilovers (no torsion bars). The rear is mounted to the rear shock towers. I have some pics somewhere, but I don't know where.....
Hey Mike!
I will post some pics with the intake manifold on the head. A LOT of grinding has to be done on the intake ports and some welding above the port to get a good seal between head and intake manifold
I'll post a pic of a 75 wth the same stuff.
There are areas around the "firewall" which are conducive for locating parts of the cage. This is immediately at the lowest end on the "dashboard" area. This section is full of box sections and is much stronger than many other parts of the car.
See photos and use what is applicable to you. Bear in mind this is for RHD application so you need to reverse the location of the transfer bar if you intend using one to clear the pedals.
The transfer bar not only increases body stiffness but may assist to a limited degree penetration of the firewall by the engine in a frontal impact.
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Coupling to dashboard.jpg (176.9 KiB) Viewed 7837 times