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So, due to claims that the milano alternator is very heavy I took it off and weighed it, with the intention of trying to find a light weight replacement and get some weight off the front. This is for a race car running a stock 2.5 V6, so a 40 amp will be plenty. Everything is stripped (doors cut, hood cut, trunk lid cut, car fully stripped, bumpers gutted, no PS, no AC, wiring stripped, ventilation system taken out, headlights gone, etc) - I'm looking for additional weight savings (particular up front). So, it appeared I might be able to save 10 lbs or so. But, the milano alternator "only" weighed in at 10.5 lbs. I know of some alternators at 6 lbs, but $200 for a 4.5 lbs saving is not worth it to me.

Does any one happen to know of an inexpensive, light weight alternator that will fit the milano/75?

Any pointers appreciated!

Jes

Jes,

Remember it's not only $200 for the alternator, you also have to pay for custom brackets and pulley, which will probably cost more than the alternator with machine shops charging $70-$100/hr.

Remember my problem at buttonwillow (alt. died) ? I think I drove for 1.5 hours (around 150 miles) with lights on the battery alone. I'm pretty sure a the small battery will last a full race (around 12 laps X 2 miles).

You can also save a lot of weight by using thin walled stainless or mild steel exhaust tubing and one of those round mufflers from magnaflow. It will give you more power too.

Yeah, I remember.

Points, points, points - got none to spare. Though, I am replacing the exhaust behind the rear axle as that does not cost points - a straight pipe to begin with. If it is too loud, I will find a light muffler. Though, I really would like some weight off the front.

Happy New Year everyone!

Jes

Jes,

Check with AROSC if my SZ headers are considered "tubular headers". Remind them that these are after all stock Alfa parts, not high performance aftermarket parts.

I'm pretty sure you can save a few pounds there.

You can buy mine after I upgrade hehe.

What are you upgrading to?

BTW, I'm not sure the tiny 11 lbs Odyssey 545 would last a race. Another problem is that I would need to be able to fully charge it between practice sessions, qualifying, and the race. Not to mention the events where I run TT as well... Note that the Odyssey 545 + alternator is still 11 lbs lighter than a stockish battery and no alternator.

Jes

I haven't followed this up myself on my racecar, but a poster on the Yahoo AlfaRacing list provided the following info:
Alt -- MiniDenso 55A for a Geo Metro, 5.5 lbs, $130
Source -- DB Electrical Rebuilders, Gray TN, 800-753-2242

I don't have any experience with that supplier - just passing the info along.

Re further weight reduction ideas....and not sure what you still have in car and what you are allowed to do in your class, but here are some thoughts...
- lexan for all side and rear glass
- lose the airbox for a cone filter
- put the battery in the trunk if not already there
- ABS/accumulator weighs a few pounds -- can swap out for a non-ABS MC set-up

Kevin

Thanks for the pointers - have heard of the 55A Nippondenso for Geo. Though, I went to a shop and they pulled out a milano like Bosch - same weight They didn't carry Nippondenso.

Do you know of a part number?

I really would like to see one in my hand before coughing up the $$$.

- no points left for Lexan (running without front side windows as they need to be down anyway).
- can't replace box with cone filter - again, no points to spare.
- battery (11 lbs odyssey) is in trunk as you guess.
- ABS stuff could go - I'm running it without ABS functionality. It works excellent as "regular" brakes. Then I could also extract some more wiring (quite a bit for the ABS).

Jes

ar4me,

If you are any good with your hands, you should be able to shoe horn ANY alternator. Forget part numbers. Try a mtor cycle alternator or a small unit from a mini excavator type machine or snow mobile. Have a sticky beak around the motor wreckers in this type of thing and take a small set of drop scales with you and measure the weight of the suckers while you are examining them..

The man of the 21st century goes online, not to the wrecker, for a good deal on parts After some searching I bought a Denso 30 Amp 6.5 lbs, off a 3 cyl engine application (brand new due to upgrade) - $50. Actually, I bought two - for two transaxle race cars (one GTV6 and one Milano). Some customization will be involved but nothing we can't fab.

We'll see how it works out...

Jes

Do they have a small 60 amp unit? And maybe we can have it under-driven a little.

Jess,ok,you have bought a small case unit already-was going to suggest an alternator off the Toyota 4age engine..small,light and 90 a/h...
Drive the alternator off the back end of the drive shaft at the clutch..or off a side shaft..

I thought about Bazza's idea already years ago. The sideshaft might sound nice but then there's not an easy way of getting any current in the battery in the pits.

KISS

Just pick a small one and put a biggish wheel on it to keep it running slow.

Micke wrote:I thought about Bazza's idea already years ago. The sideshaft might sound nice but then there's not an easy way of getting any current in the battery in the pits.

KISS

Just pick a small one and put a biggish wheel on it to keep it running slow.

Your right here Micke,Id also run it off the engine...

Z, I didn't buy from a "store", so it is not like I went through a list and picked from there. But, I'm sure you can find something that'll fit your needs.

Yup, I was planning to underdrive it.

A fellow (Alfetta GT) racer uses a nippondenso off a forklift application - said to have more durable bearings than the auto one.

Jes

Why run it slow? The ONLY gain from that is the incredibly small amount of reduction in rotational mass.