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Chassis bonding - sound proofing- seam welding
Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 8:56 pm
by smashigcraft
Hi
I'm removing the sound deadening rubber from the floor pan with dry ice and wondering whether to continue around the areas where the rubber bonding has been injected around the panel seems near the rear wheel arches (inside) and transmission tunnel. Does this material serve any purpose? Could I seam weld there afterwards for any benefit? Hope someone has an idea on this. thanks
Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 11:13 pm
by Mats
Rust!
That's what the next owner would scream if you remove it.
Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2007 1:19 am
by mjr
mats has it for you. if you remove it from the inside, you must inhibit all of the seams with acf50 or similar (every 6 months!), or kiss good bye to the car in 5 years time.
Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2007 7:00 am
by Dennis
Guys! We're talking racecars here.......
Remove the stuff and seamweld the panels. Make sure you remove all of it before welding, because the fumes coming of it when on fire are very toxic.
Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2007 11:09 am
by Mats
Yes, true.
But I still think you need to add something back after seam welding, otherwise it will still rust and the car will deteriorate very fast.
Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2007 1:29 pm
by smashigcraft
Rust??? What's that? Fortunately I don't have to worry about such things in Aus. Thanks for the advice. I'll just remove the sections at the rear and treat with POR 15. I'll be able to keep an I on it anyway as the'll be no insulation or carpet covering when I'm finished with the race prep. Thanks again
Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2007 1:31 pm
by Alfettish
Rust will occur anywhere. I've got rusty cars in Canberra (relatively dry area of the country).
Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2007 1:37 pm
by smashigcraft
Who would have believed Hobart is drier (2nd driest capital in Aus actually) I must be very lucky.
Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2007 2:05 pm
by Alfettish
wow. What's the driest? Perth?
Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2007 2:39 pm
by la_strega_nera
Adelaide.
Still plenty o rust there.
Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2007 3:58 pm
by Rookie ROX
I simply used a heat gun, it allowed me to get most of the deadening off around those areas whilst still keeping the rubber in. Then just a rag with some turps cleaned off all the remaining residue nicely.
However how has the dry ice gone? I was going to use that method but couldn't be bothered driving down to the local Air Liquide so whipped out the heat gun instead.
ROCK ON
R~R
Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2007 11:26 pm
by sh0rtlife
i HATE that rubber crap.....on "most" american cars ive found that most rust starts UNDER that crap and works its way out
Posted: Thu Dec 20, 2007 12:27 am
by Mats
smashigcraft wrote:Rust??? What's that? Fortunately I don't have to worry about such things in Aus. Thanks for the advice. I'll just remove the sections at the rear and treat with POR 15. I'll be able to keep an I on it anyway as the'll be no insulation or carpet covering when I'm finished with the race prep. Thanks again
Guess you never wash your cars either? Paint will be stripped by pick-up stones/gravel on the road/track.