ALFAGTV6.COM

ELECTROPLATING
Early on in the project, I made the decision to set myself up to do my own electroplating.
Bought a kit from Tshwane Plating (Dean Boniface).
This is a very time-consuming but satisfying process.
I struggled with getting it right at times, and had to redo some items.
The process:
The power supply (bought from DIY electronics in South Africa) You then need a tank to put the plating liquid into (comes premixed in 5l containers from Tshwane Plating).
I would this from PlasticLand and it holds 15l comfortably, a reasonable size for most plating of smaller parts
The wiring I added to make it as easy as possible to setup and take apart. Less, use BIG zinc annodes, the bigger the better for your tank. When I used smaller ones, plating larger parts was a problem.

CLEANING THE PARTS
All the pars were taken down to their smallest components and then cleaned.
I have a sandblasting cabinet and for the most time have been using aluminium Oxide "powder" to do the cleaning. It lasts and can be re-used, and is non-toxic.
Here are some items before and after sandblasting.

On sandblasting is complete, you have to tie EACH small piece onto copper wire, this will be used to suspend the items in the plating tank.
Next step is to dip in a pickling solution. I have been using diluted (5%) Hydrochloric acid. This chemically cleans the parts before plating.
Do not leave in for too loong as it can then blacken the metal and you have to clean it again! Thereafter hang onto the copper strips on the tank.
You adjust amperage UP when doing larger parts. Smaller parts you can apply 2-3amps and keep in tank for 25-30 minutes. When the pieces come out, they are ZINC plated and bright shiny silver. You could use them like that.

Importantly, between each step, you must rinse the parts in CLEAN water very well!
After plating, I dip the items into a Yellow Passivate, which has a chemical reaction with the Zinc and creates an even more anti-corrosive finish that also has a translucent gold colour. Some examples of finished items, I am sure you can figure out where they all go!

Great job Mike.
I think the Greekster could do with his nuts being dipped and platted...lot of salt water around the Greek Islands causing all kinds of rust problems.

Mind you, I don't think he would go quietly. Might need a few bods to hold him down for his own good.

This build is awesome, I love parts coating. Need to learn how to do it properly, painting just won't do.

MD,

Well he does have the Midas touch. So anything he touches turns to gold, so by now, most of the vital parts are probably already coated in gold

Wow Mke, totally fascinating the process of plating you do at home. (Yes I know it's same at factory on much larger scale) Most people struggle just to rebuild the car now now you are going into the process we just farm out. I always wonder why sometimes you can get black shaded areas when parts come back from platers even when I sent them in clean.
Are you going down the route of powder coating suspension parts (not necessary in SA climate) or painting in 2K ? Look forward to updates.

Thanks Kevin . It is fun but VERY time consuming!
On the suspension, I have done both options! Will share in time.
Front suspension has been done 2k gloss black and rear was powdercoated gloss black. Early indications are that the powder coating is better, but hey, a nice trial to see which looks and lasts better!!

Powder coating is always better in the harsher UK environments with all the salts on the roads . Only reason why I say this is the hardness (impact resistance) is better thus less chance of sharp siones chipping the coating away to the raw metal . However the preparation involved for powder coating is far more . You don’t want the bearing surfaces or tapered joints filled with powder coating . Not paint for that matter either but a lot easier to remove over spray. You’re in Africa so not really an issue . Only salt you gonna get us from your hands while you’re eating biltong and assembling
I have also found on my one car that I painted the wishbones with 2k that a salt “blob” did make its way through ! I have seen quite a lot of cars that were restored by Alex Jupe who’s suspension was powdercoated and have been used as daily drivers through out the winters and they have properly held up. Like 8-10 years out there !
The dedion gets chipped the most . Look forward to your updates .

Hi ,
I used K.B.S rust seal on my suspension wishbones .
This product is hards to chip and salt cannot get through.
My whole car is rust sealed top and underneath.

Nice work so far, looking forward to seeing progress

Another method for rust prevention I have had success with.
Get parts back to bare metal, sand blast, sand, paint strip, etc. Clean (acid), wash, dry and coat with spray on Black Galvanising paint. It gives a mat/semi gloss finish that won't chip. No undercoat or primers required. Eventually "bonds" to steel surfaces. On torsion bars, springs, etc it flexes and won't crack. If areas are ground/scratched through it's easy to touch up, again, "bonding" with the previous coat and any exposed steel. Don't use rust converters as they prevent the steel/galv process.
Cheap to buy in spray pack cans and also in silver. I also use it on all re-used bolts, washers, nuts, etc.

David

STRIPPING OF CHASSIS
I elected to strip the chassis at home, to make sure that a thorough job was done and all issues on the car identified. I researched different options and finally elected to give Hydroblasting a try. This is using high pressure water with glass beads. I was advised not to try dry blasting as it build up lots of heat and can warp the panels.

The Glass beads used The Karcher blasting attachment, used together with my Karcher high pressure cleaner Stripping process starts - fortunate enough to buy a Car Rotisserie, this makes life so much easier to move the car around and to get to awkward places Converted my car port into a blasting shed Engine bay BEFORE

Stripping process continues
The process had to be repeated many times and the biggest frustration was the glass beads needed to dry before I could use them again for the next cycle - so this took many weeks.