ALFAGTV6.COM

la_strega_nera · Post by **la_strega_nera** » Wed Mar 01, 2006 5:53 pm

As it is in the very centre of the disc it should have almost no effect on the balance of the disc.
This sort of work should *only* be performed using a lathe.

Jim K · Post by **Jim K** » Wed Mar 01, 2006 7:45 pm

Hey Mats, I had a set of those plastic rings on the 16" MO's and after the first track session they both disintegrated like dry coal (brake heat)!! Pulled the wheels out to put the street ones on and the rings fell out in charrsd pieces! Its only aluminum rings since then!
Jim K.

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Wed Mar 01, 2006 8:17 pm

Tomer,I take the center spigot out from 58.8mm on a gta disc to 78mm and also to 85mm...The race brakes I just did work very well btw..These I took to 78mm..And look at the ally spigot used to center them,2mm material ONLY !!Its all in the clamping force,not in the spigot...

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Wed Mar 01, 2006 8:21 pm

The spigot can be seen clearly here..This whole assy is bolted together..no million parts on the floor shit when it comes to changing the discs....

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Wed Mar 01, 2006 8:25 pm

While Im on a roll here,the stud girdle is a one piece affair,it gets pushed back through the assy. after removing the 2x 8mm hold bolts.The disc is then changed and the stud girdle is pushed back into the hub assy and the hold bolts tightened ..

Micke · Post by **Micke** » Wed Mar 01, 2006 10:43 pm

Jim,

almost all rims (at least in Germany) nowadays have these plastic rings. We have been doing A LOT of track driving (several hundred sets of rims) and never any problems. I have them on my race car as well. Then again I don't let the wheel, hub or bearings get up to 800 deg C.

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Thu Mar 02, 2006 12:02 am

Yeah, never heard of it either.

So Jim, how do you think that bearing grease is holding up..?

la_strega_nera · Post by **la_strega_nera** » Thu Mar 02, 2006 1:23 am

Barry wrote: While Im on a roll here,the stud girdle is a one piece affair,it gets pushed back through the assy. after removing the 2x 8mm hold bolts.The disc is then changed and the stud girdle is pushed back into the hub assy and the hold bolts tightened ..

Welding on hardened bolts always makes me nervous :S
Why you guys don't just convert to a 3" long ARP 1/2" wheel stud i don't quite get? They're plenty long for any need, and have a big splined shank for pressing into the flange/disc.... no need to weld and you'll never break them?

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Thu Mar 02, 2006 6:25 am

la_strega_nera wrote: Welding on hardened bolts always makes me nervous :S
Why you guys don't just convert to a 3" long ARP 1/2" wheel stud i don't quite get? They're plenty long for any need, and have a big splined shank for pressing into the flange/disc.... no need to weld and you'll never break them?

Some of us have.

Post by **Zamani** » Thu Mar 02, 2006 8:25 am

I'm going with splined bolts too. It should solve the spinning bolt problem. I know small tack welds don't stop the spinning syndrome.

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Thu Mar 02, 2006 11:15 am

Not available here,cost a load,and the ht bolts work as good..
Ive never had one fail on any of the conversions I have done..

Ben,I agree with you on the splined jobs though..

Z,POst a pic of your spline bolt on your car,will ya??

la_strega_nera · Post by **la_strega_nera** » Thu Mar 02, 2006 2:11 pm

Barry wrote:Not available here,cost a load,and the ht bolts work as good..
Ive never had one fail on any of the conversions I have done..

Ben,I agree with you on the splined jobs though..

Z,POst a pic of your spline bolt on your car,will ya??

Sorry Barry, I forgot about the supply issue you've got to work around... from memory my 3" studs cost about $30 for a pack of 5?

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Thu Mar 02, 2006 8:55 pm

Ben,Is that Canadian,Us,or window money your talking here?
Thats not a bad price for the right thing..Luckily were out of the black times(excuse the pun here..

)where we could not bring these things in...

Zman,If you try welding ht bolts heads to cast iron...it will fail 100% of the time..Thats the reason for the 5mm mild steel ring....Ive just had a cast iron ht bolt episode that had to be sorted..the bvery same race car I did the brakes on here...

Jim K · Post by **Jim K** » Thu Mar 02, 2006 10:27 pm

Hey Mats, bearing grease (greece??) no problem. Must be the heavy braking track/high weight/hot summer combo. if I recall right, temps on the outside surface of the wheel between the wheelnuts were 110*C and I was amazed (yes the IR gun was calibrated). I thought it strange that wheels and tires had similar temps (front left: 115-110-106, the most heavily loaded one, I know, need more neg camber but its a street car so 2.5* is enough. These are BS 540S 205/50-16) As for bearings, I have to change them about once every year or 2 years, depending on how many times we hit the track. The camber and 25mm offset doesn't do them any good! Rear bearings hold up much better, only changed them once in 5 years, naturally the rear left crapped out first but I always change in pairs.
Re my own stud arrangement for big discs+alloy hats, I'll post pics of my setup when I take it apart. I use std studs with a special arrangement, no welding. Depending on wheel type used, you may have to use wheelnuts with a longer neck in some applications, as long as you can thread ~6-8 turns, I think thats enough.
Jim K.

MD · Post by MD » Fri Mar 03, 2006 12:32 am

You boys make me sick. Sick I tell you!! Never happy with what you got. Always pissing about changing things. I have had a gutfull of your nonsense. I'm telling your father when he comes home from work and then we'll see who's got hot pants.

Meantime, I'm off to read my Women's Weekly...