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Barry · Post by **Barry** » Sun Mar 05, 2006 8:56 am

Chen,download the video"Gothenburg by night" here..

http://www.s2racing.se/daniel.htm

Enjoy..

Maurizio · Post by **Maurizio** » Sun Mar 05, 2006 12:58 pm

Feel better now?? Laughing

That is the fun part for me of a 75, the suspension! hell with power.
If I stay a few corners behind or in front of a porker, M3 or whatever, that makes my day, so what when he pulls away on the next straight. And all that for the price of a poor mans car.......

back on topic: might even upgrade the brakes sometime so I can outbrake one

Micke · Post by **Micke** » Sun Mar 05, 2006 10:49 pm

Barry,

dunno that one (could be from here as the license plates look right). But there are a couple of mean ones. Unlike this they are real sleepers. Here's a good one:
http://www.rmotorsport.com/2003/?sx=en.bmw
BMW "318" quarter mile in 9.6s. Not totally ordinary.

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Mon Mar 06, 2006 1:28 am

Barry wrote: Then there is that insane m3 trbo with 800hp or sumptin...crazy,but more fun than a barrel of monkeys....The video shows 380 odd hp without the turbo on the dyno...8:1 cr!!!!!!!and then they bolt the turbo onto that thing...
Micke,you know about this car??its from your neck of the woods somewhere...

The E30 with 8.0:1 compression in a M3 engine is actually about 5Km from mu garage. And there are plenty more sick stuff like that around here (Gothenburg), how about an Audi Ur-Quattro with an ex IMSA engine in it?

Spins the wheels in third (and third gear goes all the way to 200 Km/h..)
www.limmet.se

Anyway.
Jim: DS2500? They didn't even cut it for Street driving on my Delta. Go for Pagid RS 4-2 (or Pagid blue) och RS-19 (new yellow). Sick bite with virtually NO disk wear. A cooling duct really keeps the wear down too, running the stuff too hot is just a very bad idea.
Why are you even thinking about brake fluid recirculation before you got cooling ducts?

Barry: That 105 is just weird, huge brakes but the springs are tiny weak things.

The best way to get good brakes is learning how to brake, I don't know how many times I've heard people whine about their brakes only to find out they don't actually know how to brake. When you break you do it HARD and ONCE! No 70% pedal pressure nonsense, full power then release, the longer time you keep the pad against the disk the motre time the heat has to flow into the piston and caliper (fluid). If you brake like you should the heat stays in the pad and disk.

I'm not trying to suggest you guys can't brake but there are a lot of drivers out there that don't do it properly because they think they are going to break their car...

Jim K · Post by **Jim K** » Mon Mar 06, 2006 1:38 am

Since I've seen ~zero disc wear with the DS2500, I'd like to keep them if I can. Next step is cooling for sure and in the unlikely case it still doesn't put things right, I'll see about switching pads.
Jim K.

Post by **Zamani** » Mon Mar 06, 2006 2:31 am

That isn't an M3 i think. Wrong C-pillar or rather, the lack of the C-pillar extension. Looks like a regular E30 with a front reiger bumper and M3 quarter panels.

8:1 CR and 309 bhp with the S52 3.2L engine? That's believeable I guess.... not 380 bhp.

I have a new brake setup coming, but this time I've sworn off all those crazy track pads. The Hawk blacks ate my disc after 2 track events. Not to mention caking on my wheels

.

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Mon Mar 06, 2006 3:31 am

Hey Z, naver said it was an M3, I said M3 engine and it's actually from an E36 rather then E30. over 300 Hp with 8.0:1 CR is still amazing in my book and on E85 I believe.

BTW, buy pads from Europe instead of the US, all the US pads are probably designed for either oval racing or autocross (or drifting

).

Jim: If the pads are worn, swith them for something else, the DS2500 was never a track pad and at 1400Kg they will never work properly. Why do you want to keep them so badly?
I had Pagid RS 4-2 on my 75 and I coulden't even measure the wear on the discs, sold them because I hated the bloody vibrations from the grooves and I couldn't believe how little wear they had after ~5 years.

Post by **Zamani** » Mon Mar 06, 2006 10:24 am

Should have quoted Bazza's post. Not referring to your post Mats, I think Bazza said M3 Turbo. Not sure if he meant chassis or engine.

You're right 8:1 CR and 309 bhp is super impressive. I wonder if it is even a 3.2L anymore? I mean BMW Motorsport requiered high compression pistons and fancy headers to get 321 bhp.

Sporttunergtv6 · Post by **Sporttunergtv6** » Fri Mar 17, 2006 1:44 pm

Could someone tell me how long approximately the front braided steel brake lines are and also the clutch? I have options: 15", 18", and 24". i was thinking 15 for the clutch and 18 for the front brakes. Also, am I under the correct assumption that to replumb the brake lines I need all AN-3 fittings with 3/16" tube and metric adaptors, and the clutch is AN-4 with 1/4" tube and metric adaptors?
Thanks for the help,
Vittorio

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 11:34 am

Found another interesting Swedish engine...

Roaring!

Sporttunergtv6 · Post by **Sporttunergtv6** » Sat Apr 08, 2006 11:41 pm

Hi,
I have been inspired by many of your posts. I have a question regarding a brake conversion of mine which uses the 305mm gta rotors. I am waiting for my rotors to be delivered from Brembo Ita. and I would like to get as much done to the kit before they arrive. I read a post about spacing the wheel "8 or 9mm," and i was wondering if you could tell me exaclty what your spacers measure. Don't go out of your way or anything if you dont know off hand, I am just trying to decide if i could simply use two 5mm spacers that H&R makes for the 164(same center bore wheels, right?). The front of my car is quite low and with my kuhmo 215 victoracers on 17s things are already close to the outer lip of the fender.
Thanksin advance,
Vittorio

tomp · Post by **tomp** » Thu May 11, 2006 2:17 pm

I thinking of dropping the verde ABS and using dual masters+balance bar. The big unknown is master cylinder bore sizeing. Ive read in a couple of places that the target line pressure should be around 1200 psi assuming about 100 lbs pedal pressure. I dont know if thats front and rear or not.. Anyone have some good numbers for bore sizes for a heavy car like this?

-Tom P.

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Thu May 11, 2006 8:27 pm

Tom,Difficult here..what calipers are you going to use?..More importantly,what are the piston sizes and quantity??

Get yourself a Book in the U.S.called the performance brake handbook..I think its a S.A.design publication..Theres also one on clutches..
Lots of formulae and solid info..

tomp · Post by **tomp** » Fri May 12, 2006 7:39 am

Someone posted a link to the stoptech site wich has a great technical paper on calculating master cylinder sizes: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/Pedal ... -Guide.pdf article.
My workshop manual lists stock front piston diameter as 48mm, rear is 38m.
I setup a spread sheet based on the article and ended up with a .56 diameter front and a whopping 1.25 rear with centered balance bar. Whats interesting is the effect of CG on front/rear balance. I picked a CG of 28 inch height guessing. Dropping it to 25 inches make a huge difference in balance. I was really surprised at the change only a few inches made. Anyone have a good figure for Milano CG height and front/rear scale readings?
-Tom.

Micke · Post by **Micke** » Sat May 27, 2006 12:28 am

Speaking about welded bolts. I had to change to longer ones about 10 years ago as my mag rims were really thick.

The bolts rotated in the holes and my friendly neighbor welded then to the hub. Removed the box and dedion yesterday and everything still looks fine.