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[Mats]

Well if you have to order fluid from somwhere I can see why you're getting a couple at a time. Lucky for me a garage buddy sells RBF600 so I just walk 10m and put some money in his desk drawer.

If the fluid boils usually there is water present, bleeding out the bad fluid with four or five pumps of the pedal usually does the trick, no need to exchange the whole system really. But it's still better to do some extra bleeding before going to the track and don't get the foot-in-air feeling.

[MD]

Ah all this high tech talk.

That big rust hole in the floor comes in handy matched to a couple of Fred Flintones sneakers.

You just gotta make with action coming up to a corner an yell yaba daba dooo.

Works everytime. It must. Fred's back every week. That proves it.

[MD]

One for the mechs out there.

Is it still the practice to flush/clean complete brake systems by purging with methylated spirits or do you just use fluid theses days?

[Mats]

Never heard about that before, does that answer your question?

[tomp]

I noticed the back brakes dont seem to be participating much so a dual master + balance bar may be in the cards. If I can figure out what master bore sizes to use. I found that HAWK makes a DTC-70 race pad for our cars. At $192 Im not sure I want to experiment with it though!
-Tom.

[tomp]

Ok, update on the brake deal. I pulled the pads off the left side and found one was significantly more worn than the other. Plus it was tapered. The piston orientation was way off. Had to turn it 1/4 turn to get the 20 deg orientation right. I checked the right side pads for taper and one had 40 thou the other maybe 10 thou.The were also off but not nearly as much. The moral of the story is always check piston orientation when replacing pads! The discs have about 10 thou max taper. Probably replace them since I dont know of a trustworthy shop to turn them. So, on go porterfield R4 and new rotors. Also removed the splash shield to allow more air in a radiation out.
-Tom P.