ALFAGTV6.COM

[grant]

Why? Not different enough to bother?

[Mats]

Easier and better to buy newly (and correctly) designed stuff.

[jamal555]

hey guys,

i'm wondering something, my turbo is 2 gen. Amerika model... apperently with the engine from 3rd gen. QV model... 0.75 bar one...

i read on some italian website that Amerika and QV models are 110 kg heavier than 1 gen. models...

i'm wondering is there any difference in the chassis itself or its all in the bumpers, seats, gas tank...?

main question is can i slim the Amerika version to the same weight as lets say TS chassis?

[Mats]

Yes!

[Zamani]

bumpers alone weight 50 kg. Side impact beams in the doors, the boot lid has extra bracing too on newer cars. Do you have sunroof and ABS?

[jamal555]

Nope the car has only standard kit in it...

no AirCon, no power steering, no abs or sunroof...

So only the doors need to be cut out, boot lid looks the same as on my TS... or is it... need to take a second look tomorrow...

the bumpers have to go... i'm keeping the gas tank if i don't find smaller racing one for cheap and cut it into the floor of the boot for low centre of gravity...

i have an option to replace the bumpers with some composite material ones... like fiberglass or something similar done in TS bumper style moulding them with a friend in his shop but i don't know will those be significantly lighter than the stock TS ones to be worth the trouble...

[jamal555]

Jim K. mentioned something about lowering the head to bump the comp ratio to 8.5:1... for getting good hp from 1.8t...

how much would u need to skim of the head... and is that safe? pistons/valves running into each other or any other unforeseen complication?

[Zamani]

Only way to do it right is to CC the head and the cylinder when piston is at TDC. So the heads have to come off.

[Jim K]

I finally milled 1mm off the std head and ended up with 8:1 CR. I also installed a special head gasket with 4 separate knife-edge O-rings, since the std gasket was a bit gone (I want to be feel extra safe with more boost capacity than I'll use). The cooling system was chemically flushed and a new std radiator installed, removed the Pierburg valve and replaced it with a little adjustable manual bypass gizmo which I set to 1.3bar (19psi). I modified the std thermostat for 70*C and put in a new fan switch 82/77*C. I then recalibrated the afm spring to obtain the prescribed ~1.2% CO with the afm bypass screw at about midpoint (6 out of 12 turns). Idle timing is a std 9*BTDC. A 10548...cam was installed as intake and the cams were both retarded ~5* exhaust and 9* intake from std 1.8T specs. Retiming has nothing to do with v/p clearance, these engines have plenty of space! The exhaust system is 63mm with two mufflers -no noise. Electrically I'm using a special 1bar chip with all else std. A crucial test was being able to use over 1bar uphill (floored) with engine temp ~92*C and ambient at 35*C (its really too f. hot here these days!) without pinging and it passed! This everyday driver really hauls a$$! It must be seen by the non-turbo crowd to appreciate; boost comes in strong at 2.8-3k and there's no need to exceed 6-6.5k in all cases. However, being a daily tool, I want boost earlier at, say, 2.2-2.4k so I got a GT2854R snail...This will be installed right after summer vacations...Ordinarily, the gang here says this little 1.8T can't get any better but I disagree! Today I welded a wbo2 fitting and will start checking some numbers soon, as so far its been going by seat of the pants feel which is dangerous for turbo engines! When I'm satisfied, I'll put it on the rollers and maybe post a graph. Remember now, this is my daily 1.8T, not the one destined for more 'arduous' duty! That one is still waiting for serious upgrades including rods, pistons, head job etc. Till later,
Jim K.

[Duk]

I'm intrigued by such low idle ignition timing.
My Nissan RB20det (2 litre turbo twin cam 24 valve 6) idles with 25 degrees on its 8.5:1 CR and my Toyota 4AGZE engine idles at about the same (tho you put it into a base ignition timing mode to set timing to 10*BTDC).

Have you done any pressure drop testing of the pre turbo plumbing and airflow meter?
My Potenziata's AFM is about the same size as the standard 1 on my 4AGZE engine, so I'd guess the turbo engine would be the same. The 4AGZE benefited from a larger AFM with less pressure drop (vacuum) before the pre supercharger throttle body and a nice bit of extra push in the back.

I like your turbo choice for a road car. It should help bring the boost point down hopefully without sacrificing any top end. Given the age of the original turbo, I think you may well gain top end.
Now you just need a very effective means of tuning it to get the best.

[Jim K]

Ahh, ignition timing....Remember we're talking about an 'ancient' engine design (pre-'85) for which -in Alfa terms- even this 9* was too much! I don't want to change the std electronics on this car, cost is the main factor, as well as the fact that the other 1.8T is more radical in this sense (Sierra Cosworth rwd Marelli IAW management, no afm) so one car is more 'road'than track and the other just the opposite. If the road car ends up with ~210-220hp (from std 155) I'll be very happy...it even has the std crappy intercooler setup!
Nothing has been measured yet, just the CO% as I said. Its the most un-scientific approach for a project so far!
Jim K.

[BradGTV]

im looking to buy a exhaust manifold and possibly a dizzy from a 1.8t, does anyone have or know someone with one for sale? i know they are very rare but i thought i would try my luck...

also, does anyone know how to lock/set up the bosch electronic dizzy for use with a ecu? can anyone suggest what needs to be done?

cheers, brad

[Mats]

If you just want it to distribute sparks you can use a TS dizzy, this my plan.
If you need to have the Hall-sensor I can't help you.

[BradGTV]

thanks mats.
for my motor i will be using the GM delco fuel/ignition from a camira (4cyl 2.0),
the ecu is reprogramable and i will have it remapped. i know i can use a marelli electronic dizzy, but i have a bosch. the dizzy needs to be locked and set to 10* (i think) but wondering how i lock it?

[Jim K]

You can also find a distributor very similar to the 1.8T unit from some 33 models. It has the same Hall-effect trigger and the only serious difference from the 1.8T is it has a vacuum pot. Other than this, the mechanism is locked (no springs/weights) and all you need to modify is to remove ~4mm from the neck in the lathe so as to obtain the same neck dimension with a Nord unit. If you also remove the vacuum parts and lock the plate, you then effectively have a 1.8T unit!
Jim K.