Thanks for the numbers!
Jes
I suppose you are referring to the "inner" sheet metal and the "thick" reinforcement? I know the doors have this heavy-duty metal inside, running the length of the door. Along with the welder I was contemplating cutting it out...Stripping the doors easily another 55 kg!!
Jes
87 Milano Verde - daily driver - Juliet
87 Milano 3.0 Motronic - budget race car - Roxanne
87 Milano 3.7 24v - race car
(Repeat or do as I say at your own risk - be critical)
87 Milano 3.0 Motronic - budget race car - Roxanne
87 Milano 3.7 24v - race car
(Repeat or do as I say at your own risk - be critical)
Off Topic (as usual)
Can I flat tow the transaxle car? All 4 wheels on the ground.
I'm afraid of gear lubrication (or lack of it) since the oil might not get to all the rotating parts.
Alternatively I was thinking of detaching the 2 halfshafts on the tranny side before towing.
Opinions?
Otherwise I'll get a dolly and put the rear wheels on the dolly.
OK back on topic I may just sell the recaros and put in the King Dragon race seats in an effort to reduce weight.
OK off topic again Micke for the rollcage, in the back section is there a rule (let say for your racing organization) which says the bar from the main hoop to the rear section of the car has to be straight? Or can it be slightly bent/curved (kind of like JimGreek's cage) so I can have more room in the rear? I didn't see any rule like that here.
Can I flat tow the transaxle car? All 4 wheels on the ground.
I'm afraid of gear lubrication (or lack of it) since the oil might not get to all the rotating parts.
Alternatively I was thinking of detaching the 2 halfshafts on the tranny side before towing.
Opinions?
Otherwise I'll get a dolly and put the rear wheels on the dolly.
OK back on topic I may just sell the recaros and put in the King Dragon race seats in an effort to reduce weight.
OK off topic again Micke for the rollcage, in the back section is there a rule (let say for your racing organization) which says the bar from the main hoop to the rear section of the car has to be straight? Or can it be slightly bent/curved (kind of like JimGreek's cage) so I can have more room in the rear? I didn't see any rule like that here.
Micke: The fenders I have weigh in at just over 2Kg a piece. How can you save 10Kg on that?
Zamani: Tow away, how do you think the GB is lubricated normally?
Zamani: Tow away, how do you think the GB is lubricated normally?
Mats Strandberg
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
Jes,ar4me wrote: Andrew,
The only change to the drive shaft is the addition of the "plate" at the front coupling to reduce the "twisting". Again, we'll see if I'll be changing couplings daily...
Oh, and I have an inherent weight advantage against JJ (the secret: running daily). Though, can't match Zamani
Jes
You need to get some of these..... Solid prop u/j - proven with big power/torque. Also notice the extra beefed up webbing on the Autodelta factory clutch cover - another weak point, with high revs and power.
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Last edited by Andrew.b on Wed Nov 23, 2005 12:42 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Andrew b
Mats:
didn't weigh the 75 doors so it was an educated guess. My GTV fenders were 20 kg so that's "where I pulled my numbers from"
Z'man:
When you tow the car the gearbox will rotate quite normally (unless you go real fast with wheels off the ground). So, the lubrication will work normally but without any power from the engine. It will last approximately 2 374 562 km (or miles for ye yanks).
I'm not sure about the cage but the front tubes are often bent for clearance. I think it's allowed. Stiffness will suffer of course. The diagonal bar is always straight as far as I've seen. This you can make removable if you need transporting power.
didn't weigh the 75 doors so it was an educated guess. My GTV fenders were 20 kg so that's "where I pulled my numbers from"
Z'man:
When you tow the car the gearbox will rotate quite normally (unless you go real fast with wheels off the ground). So, the lubrication will work normally but without any power from the engine. It will last approximately 2 374 562 km (or miles for ye yanks).
I'm not sure about the cage but the front tubes are often bent for clearance. I think it's allowed. Stiffness will suffer of course. The diagonal bar is always straight as far as I've seen. This you can make removable if you need transporting power.
So, now point in touching those!Micke: The fenders I have weigh in at just over 2Kg a piece. How can you save 10Kg on that?
Does anyone know how close you can get in weight of carbon fiber hood and trunk lid by simply cutting out "excess" sheet metal from the backside of stock hood and trunk lid? Any guesses at the weight difference of gutted stock hood and trunk lids and carbon fiber parts?
Jes
87 Milano Verde - daily driver - Juliet
87 Milano 3.0 Motronic - budget race car - Roxanne
87 Milano 3.7 24v - race car
(Repeat or do as I say at your own risk - be critical)
87 Milano 3.0 Motronic - budget race car - Roxanne
87 Milano 3.7 24v - race car
(Repeat or do as I say at your own risk - be critical)
Jes,
If you are using composite parts for rull race application, then hood and trunk lid strength and rigidity may not be very important. (bums dont jump on your hood at the track the way they do on some streets). If this is the case, a carbon/kevlar part could be extremely light. I dont want to speculate on the exact weight, however.
I just spent all of my money on a big roll of IM7 carbon fiber which is about the strongest by weight that exists. I think it is used on the stealth bomber! Arms manufacturers buy the entire world supply so it is very difficult to aquire. I bought a roll that was the excess trim from a military aircraft supplier (they wouldnt tell what project they were building...top secret ). They get it in 100foot wide rolls and they cut a few feet of excess off and roll it up.
When I get it I will be able to estimate the weight of projects to some extent.
If you are using composite parts for rull race application, then hood and trunk lid strength and rigidity may not be very important. (bums dont jump on your hood at the track the way they do on some streets). If this is the case, a carbon/kevlar part could be extremely light. I dont want to speculate on the exact weight, however.
I just spent all of my money on a big roll of IM7 carbon fiber which is about the strongest by weight that exists. I think it is used on the stealth bomber! Arms manufacturers buy the entire world supply so it is very difficult to aquire. I bought a roll that was the excess trim from a military aircraft supplier (they wouldnt tell what project they were building...top secret ). They get it in 100foot wide rolls and they cut a few feet of excess off and roll it up.
When I get it I will be able to estimate the weight of projects to some extent.
Thanks Zambonzambon wrote:Andrew
That is a stunning collection of whips!
throb throb!
As follows:
Ex-Andy Rouse Touring car '11' (1983 btcc overall winner)
Anthracite South African GTV6 3.0 carbs
Black GTV6 2.5 Original spec 36,000 miles
Red GTV6 fast road/track days with 24v motor, soon 3.5
Alfetta race car - 1.8 hot turbo motor
Red Twin Turbo 3.3 24v GTV6 '69'
Hidden in garage '65 Giulia Sprint GT ( supercharged T/S one day)
Hidden at Alex Jupe's w'shop - Red/white Snobeck racing european/french touring car 1984- mmmmm see the following restoration pics
Sorry for trashing the thread - just love modified race/track cars........ like Jes's
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Andrew b