ALFAGTV6.COM

kevin · Post by **kevin** » Mon Mar 12, 2007 12:13 pm

I have done this twice and the only way I have come right was to do some minor panelbeating on the booster and add two space nuts on the bottom of it. Must be carefull though, and also had to remove some of the firewall material. Also the battery cable must be slackened underneath the car as you need more lenght to pull it around the booster as it cant go behind it anymore.

Post by **Michael** » Mon Mar 12, 2007 2:23 pm

This was actually on Larry's advice - the Alfetta booster was an option but this was apparently a preferable solution given that when a GTV6 master cylinder is used with an Alfetta booster, the brakes are under-boosted.
Dunno - maybe they did not have an Alfetta booster in stock

Good point there Barry - on the face of it, it looks like the bonnet will close but I'll check tonight. There are differences between LHD and RHD cars which is what is causing some confusion. Also, differences between Milanos' and GTV6s' ... looking at it again, the only pics of a 164 booster are in Milanos' so this might turn out to be impossible and I might have to simply use an Alfetta booster (or one from a Spider, according to JJ).

junglejustice · Post by **junglejustice** » Tue Mar 13, 2007 10:49 am

Right you are - I went with the Spider booster on Chuck's car. I figure that the boost-assist levels good for a Spider are good for a GTV6 - don't weigh as much as a 164, so why go there? Don't need to slot the mounting holes either - fits just fine next to the clutch master...

Post by **Michael** » Tue Mar 13, 2007 10:10 pm

Hi John:

What year spider booster did you use?
I'd like to have a 'newish' one ... would a 90's Spider booster work? Another reason I went with the 164 booster is simply age related - an Alfetta booster is likely 30 years old now...

Thanks,

junglejustice · Post by **junglejustice** » Wed Mar 14, 2007 5:52 am

Yep!

Yeah-no - me too; I wanted a new or as close to as-new unit as possible!

All of the Spider units appear to be the same and a quick call to say, IAP - could confirm this. I looked at an S4 (1991-1994) down here at Andrew's shop yesterday, right next to an S2 (first cars after the Duettos - 1972 and on) - they look identical.

Somewhere during the mid-80s they must have started making them shiny black, rather than the dipped yellow steel though.

Does the 164 unit not clear the hood now, or what?

Ralli Round had a new-new late Spider unit for 170 and 150 for the pedal-box. (Brand new the boosters are something like 350...)

These things can not be modified or re-shaped too much from the looks of it. There is this "bladder" and spring - almost like a piston - inside that moves forward (the entire width/diameter of the booster) when you step on the pedal, that would likely stick, or even leak if you tried to "dent" it or BFH it in some other fashion.

I think that these boost-levels will be great given the weight of the car. Even if it is less than the GTV6 booster - like some of the guys who prefer no booster - it would be a move in a direction of better pedal-modulation (at least still with some vacuum-assist!)

Post by **Michael** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 9:48 am

A productive weekend - the Alfetta pedal box with 164 Booster seems to fit fine (in its modified form). I have it assembled and tested in the car - the bonnet even closes without any mods

Time will tell if its 'over boosted'.
I will need to rebuild the clutch master cylinder as I've just noticed some fluid seeping past the seals on the inside of the car. I'm going to do the brake MC at the same time purely as preventative maintenance. Anyone know (short of measuring) how one can visually tell difference between 20mm and 22mm brake master cylinders? IAP indicates either could be fitted on an '85.

Cheers,

fastcar · Post by **fastcar** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 2:44 pm

Michael wrote:I ended getting the brake set up from APE - makes sense since Larry has done all this before - specifically with a GTV6. I ordered the Alfetta pedal box and a 164 Booster - apparently, the pedal box needs minor modification to allow the clutch MC to sit alongside the 164 booster, when using an Alfetta pedal box.
I'll see this weekend.

It's a pity that I didn't read Your question before. We used the Milano pedal-box and booster on my GTA engined GTV as You can see in my
topic.
I think that's the more convenient way to accomodate the 24V engine in our engine-bay[/url]

fastcar · Post by **fastcar** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 2:49 pm

Michael wrote:New question - do you guys have a recommendation for an aftermarket adjustable fuel pressure regulator? It does not need to be rising rate or anything like that since I'm using GoTech. I have to get an aftermarket inline setup since my engine was shipped sans this piece

I used the adjustable regulator of the 33, because it has also a back-line part, so You can use the standard fuel-pipes in the car.

Post by **Michael** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 8:57 pm

Now I'm seriously confused

I thought the Milano had the same pedal box as the GTV6 - I know the booster is the same. This setup did not work in my car - but it seems to work in yours.
I like my Alfetta/164 setup though, lots of room to take off the valve cover. I can probably even remove a head without removing the booster (I'd just have to move the BMC to one side).

I have a question about your alternator belt setup. Is the tensioning of the belt done by the pulley with the arrow pointing to it or is that just an idler?
Do you know if its possible to retrofit one of these on a 164 24v engine?

Cheers,

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Tue Mar 20, 2007 9:05 am

Mike,With the setup I sent you dont need the tensioner!Use it as is and adjust from the top.Everything simply bolts on.

Besides,The tensioner will NOT fit the 164 based engine.

Post by **Michael** » Tue Mar 20, 2007 9:49 am

Hi Barry:
That is a pity - looks like a pretty salubrious solution.
Unfortunately I never received the setup you sent me some months ago (damn postal service

) ... so I'm having to cobble something else up.
Cheers,

Fernando · Post by **Fernando** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 2:09 am

Hi Michael,

I visited Barry yesterday and got to see the alternator conversion he has done on my 3.6 24V motor.No tensioning required and I can vouch for it being a quality piece of work.Will make servicing for me a breeze.

Barry has also done an amazing alternator conversion on my friend's 2.8 turbo motor.I quickly realized there is a big difference between a guy with Barry's skill and a plonker like me.

Such a pity your parcel has gotten lost in the post.

Fernando

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Sun Mar 25, 2007 8:33 pm

Hi guys...I took a short ,very well deserved break last week.
Mike,Ive still got the templates..will make another set for you if you want.This time we send registered mail.

Thanks F,The cheque is in the mail!!..

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 9:04 pm

Mike,yay-nay??

fastcar · Post by **fastcar** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 10:28 pm

Michael wrote:Now I'm seriously confused
I thought the Milano had the same pedal box as the GTV6 - I know the booster is the same. This setup did not work in my car - but it seems to work in yours.
I like my Alfetta/164 setup though, lots of room to take off the valve cover. I can probably even remove a head without removing the booster (I'd just have to move the BMC to one side).

I have a question about your alternator belt setup. Is the tensioning of the belt done by the pulley with the arrow pointing to it or is that just an idler?
Do you know if its possible to retrofit one of these on a 164 24v engine?

Cheers,

Hello Michael,

Yes, we use it as a tensioner as that is the role originally on the GTA-engine. But as long as I know, it doesn't applicable to the 164-engine easily.

fastcar