ALFAGTV6.COM

[MR2 Zig]

This one is relatively plain vanilla....164S pistons and cams, new liners, bearings, bigger holes in the oil pump screen, new water pump, timing belt, reworked old shankle headers, 164 catylitic converter, rebuilt driveline, new clutch, rebuilt transaxle (thanks Larry Jr./APE)(3.42 ratio), new hoses, fresh coolant, dirt and scum removed.

The 2.5 was tired....compression was 115 on the high cyl, 80 on the low one, the rest at 100 psi even. The transaxle is what finally got me going....the clutch pivot broke as it was tired too. Transaxle took all the seals, 2 syncro hubs, 4 synchros, shift forks, pinion spacer washer, clutch, front housing (better bearings), and the clutch fork pivot.

Hopefully I will be able to afford porting and better injection in the future, but all of this has eaten up what money I had saved up and I'm not quite done yet.

It'll do what i want when I'm done i think...I want a fast street car that won't beat me up on the crappy streets we have here. I want it to be reliable. I need it to pass the smog test. It doesn't have to be the fastest, but it can't be the slowest either.

I did one beauty upgrade....I bought some wrinkle finish red powder coated rocker covers from Rich Goodrich / Goodrich Distributing here in town....dang those look good

[GarthW]

OK then, like you said, if Greg speaks highly of them, then that will be good enough for me also!!

Hey MD, how come Barry is longer on the forum.?

[Jim K]

Slowly progressing with the new 12v 3liter, reason being the special valves I'm expecting from G&S Valves in UK. In the meantime, I trial-installed the crank scraper I got from Ishihara-Johnson. Nice sturdy piece of metalwork, needed a few minor 'fixes' to fit properly. The maker has been alerted and will correct as required. I trimmed the Teflon sheet as best I could and its very close to the rotating parts, as intended. I may be breaking some new ground here as this installation will seriously reduce 'flying oil'. Will this result in higher temperatures?
Jim K.

[Zamani]

Why not a thicker material and double its function as a block girdle? Especially for a 7K rpm engine. I suppose it's not a problem until you reach > 7.5K?

Hey MD, I'm not saying JK wears a girdle, I am pre-empting your replies here

JK can we also discuss about headers. Seriously, 12V owners have been looking for the magical > 1.5" primaries for the last decade. No luck so far.

[Jim K]

I'll only talk about the big-bores when this motor goes to the dyno. I haven't been able to solve the injector cutout problem in the current engine and about the only thing I haven't tried is reverting to the old CSC setup. if I can't dyno, I can't assess big-bores, simple as that. Now, what does the injector drive signal have to do with headers....forget it, I don't want to get back into this, I've given up! The show wil continue with the new engine and that's that!
A block girdle is a separate item which can be built and will bolt on all main studs. its difficult to make the scraper thicker as you'd be lowering the oil sump and altering oil pickup/sump bottom distance.
Jim K.

[Mats]

Why would you get higher temps if you lower the friction loss?

[Jim K]

Don't really know but I figure all the oil splashed around must have some cooling effect by removing heat. If that oil quantity is drastically reduced I would think surface temps would be on the rise...that makes sense??
Jim K.

[Maurizio]

Z, A thicker scraper would not be very effective.



This will only alter the b in the equation.

This reinforcement baffles idea is good, when altered nicely... so that the main studs also bolt on to them.
That would give more a lot more stiffness.



When tying both sides together you are actually altering the h in the equation!
This is the theory, if it can be done in the oil pan? I know the 4 cil have baffles in the pan, interference?.

General info:
A folded plate has stiffness in the direction of the fold. And a thin sheet is very stiff when loaded in its plane.
Try this at home with a thick paper sheet
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_ar ... of_inertia

[Maurizio]

Don't really know but I figure all the oil splashed around must have some cooling effect by removing heat. If that oil quantity is drastically reduced I would think surface temps would be on the rise...that makes sense??
Jim K.

Yes makes sense, I also have a strange feeling about lubrication, can't really put the finger on it, but the oil mist is what is placing the oil on the cylinder walls, right?

[Jim K]

I would think there's enough oil for the bores being thrown out of the rod bearings to take care of that. The design of the scraper can't stop that from splashing around.
Jim K.

[MR2 Zig]

If there is a measureable temp difference I'd be surprised. The plus for the crank scraper is thet it gets windage oil off the crank (not all mind you) and therefore horsepower that was taken up in spinning all that oil around goes out to the wheels. The question becomes is that difference measureable on the dyno?

The oil being down in the pan instead of wrapped around the crank is likely a plus when you go around a corner and the oil sloshes to one side.....there is more there to cover the oil pickup.

[Jim K]

Yes, that is the case for the scraper. If I believe the various sources, power gain can be up to 3%, which isn't bad in the over 200hp range.
To complete the oil control subject, a better baffle is needed, like a plate bolted horizontally on top of the sump paritons, with holes for the oil to flow down. This plate will not allow oil to climb to the sides of the pan/block during cornering. I have this item half-finished and will soon post pics. My current puzzle is where and how big to make the holes for the oil. I already made the minimum required opening for the pump to go through -so small, it requires juggling and twisting the sump around it to make it fit!
Jim K.

[MR2 Zig]

Hell, I was juggling around the sump and I had the engine on the stand.....

[Maurizio]

Jim,

How about just 40-60 mm from the side walls of the pan, some slits of 3x30 mm
Baffle not completely horizontal but bent a little inward towards the slits and the bottom of the pan.

btw I came across some pictures of an absolute beauty from the old days...
Check the travel path of the oil, to let it cool.

[kevin]

Jim , do you run oil coolers with your ''modified '' engines. Should standard 3.0 12v motors run oil coolers if they are going to be thrashed for track use. Just wondering with comments about extra temp. Probably with that scraper run cooler - less of a heat sink.(spelling).
There are four very interesting projects here. Currently starting to build a 75 3.0l 12v milano motor for racing but it will be in mild form looking for more torque. Hopefully I will find easy power in the fuel management side like I did in the 164 's with the removal of the restrictive AFM. Once the ''book'' is on the shelves then we can start looking back inside the engine.
Here is a pic of another road project .