ALFAGTV6.COM

All 2.5 24v were chain driven and heads won't work on gear driven however with a big enough cheque book anything is possible .

Duuuhhhhh...What's checkbook?
Jim K.

This is going to be a great engine Looks promising already!

I've gone someways along the work and here are a few recent pics. Make no mistake, a LOT of detail work has gone into what you see. Now its crank scraper and baffle time.
Jim K.

Here's another pic of a baffle I came up with and made out of 3mm aluminum sheet. I think there are enough holes for oil to go through. Note that the tray is totally submerged in oil, as the actual oil level 'full' mark on the dipstick is ~5mm above the tray! I figure it will minimize oil sloshing around for the most part in the track. The trapezoidal hole is where the dipstick and level sensor are. I will also use a Teflon crank scraper for which I have yet to finish the Teflon strip profile matching; will do in next few days.
Jim K.

Like

Hate ,hate, hate your engine JK.
It's too friggin' SHINY.

I would need sunglasses just to check the oil...

Hope you are managing to have a little fun as well with all this spit polish going on fella.

You hate my engine, I envy your summer... to each his own -not that I'd wanna trade! I have to sit out in the garage (open on 3 sides) and work with ~8-11*C... Not exactly ideal conditions for building engines!
Today I dealt with fitting the crank scraper. Took ~5hrs total, as it also had to be modified for rwd sump and oil pump. lots of metal grinding and cutting first, followed by careful X-acto knife cutting of the Teflon strip so that it almost touches the rotating assy. Holes had to be determined and cut for dipstick and level sensor.
Jim K.

Looking good . At least the scraper will add some clearance between sump and block for the rod bolts that catch sump on the 3.2 . I see some marks already on the sump .
Are you running a 4mm flywheel spacer with a 2.5 flywheel or no spacer and the 3.0 flywheel .

The little grinding you see on the sump is all that is required for rotating clearance with sump directly on block. Therefore, when the 2mm scraper is added we have >2mm clearance. I measured the remaining sump thickness with an ultrasonic meter and there's still ~2.5mm of metal left = no problem!
I am using a lightened 2.5 flywheel (9kg) but no spacer is required anywhere. I measured my other 3liter engine and ring gear-to-block rear edge=12mm, exactly as I have now with the 3.2 crank. I thought there might be an issue with this but... Am I missing something?
Jim K.

That clearance is perfect . Anything from 11-12mm works otherwise you have to space starter or adjust bendix gear .
I also took 2mm off sump as we drilled an old one which we checked thickness .
Does your motronic pulley go right up against bottom cover ? On some conversions you can trim cover back so if you want to change cam belt you don't have to take pulley off . Saves time .

There's 9-10mm between pulley rear surface and timing cover belt guard so no problem changing belts. However, this distance will be increased by 2.5mm.
Jim K.

Well I just ordered all bearings from AutoLusso UK since it was cheaper shipped to California than any vendors here. Told them "mate, no King bearing shite yeah? Just Federal Mogul, cheers". But I think JK will beat me to the finish line.

Doubt if I will do the align bore.

Taking note of the 2.5L flywheel as that is probably what I will balance it with.

Front pulley wise, are you going to modify it? Lighten it or something?

I'm guessing you're also going to run a power steering unit? I have an electric pump from a Renault Clio or Twingo. Are you going to run the stock 75 PS pump?

Still no luck on the SZ starter motor.

I will use the gray Motronic pulley shown in one of the pics (previous page) and the std 75 ps pump. I am thinking to go electric pump with fluid later on though -not 100% electric as they have high failure rates here.
I must have found the last trimetal bearing set here, all else being the Aluminum alloy coated type (std Alfa) or regular types from Federal Mogul -who have just about bought everyone else in the planet's auto parts business!
Check this out but make sure its the reduction-gear drive one!
Jim K.

Jim,

Was there a link you wanted to post?


Also, what do you think of main and rod bearing coatings? I was thinking of coating them. And add some anti scuff coating to the piston skirts. Were the GTA pistons used? I forgot, they are at my friend's shop right now. If I remember correctly all 24V oem pistons had anti scuff pads on the skirts, but it looks more like a sticker than real coating.