ALFAGTV6.COM

There's a grey or overlapping area between very fast road/track and race engines. The race engine audience is a very-very small fraction of DIY's so I don't intend to dwell on this type of use or 3.2 and larger engines. I'm sure if Alfa made a 4liter, there would be some people turning them into 4.5 or 5liters but I personally deplore that. Going to a track with a hot 3.7liter Alfa and getting your a$$ repeatedly kicked by an Elise or something like it, will happen as many times as the excuses (valid or not) you can come up with for losing. You can just as easily lose with a 3liter! Spending gobs of money for a huge 24v engine should be compared to a 12v 3liter with GG's SC kit. Dollar for dollar its way cheaper, can be more powerful and simpler to maintain. How many things can go wrong with each engine type? Ask yourselves that.
Re. the 12v, the book takes you to streetable ~240-250hp from a n.a. 3liter. If you want more, get Godzilla cams, the SC kit or fork out big-time for a big-cube 24v. That's not my interest area. Surely there are guys who lust for 700hp, but my harsh line to that is: if you think you can really drive that thing as it should be driven on the track, look up Ron Dennis...
A properly built 24v 3liter with std pistons and std remapped management will easily give you 100% streetable 270hp and in catalyst form too! You can see that 300hp is easy going from there. All you need for both these results is headers, reground cams and mapping. I'm saying this as an essential part of any DIY operation is to save money, not to see how you can spend more- thats the entire idea behind the DIY concept, plus how you can maximize gains within a certain envelope and learn as much as possible from what you are (supposedly) doing by yourself.
Lets leave it at this as its getting too late here!
Jim K.

Very well put Jim.

Boy can't wait for them headers. Been waiting all of 10 years for good ones.

Also when you dyno will there be gas analyzer sensor (CO, HC, NOX) ? That would be super useful for us in CA.

BTW these days, you might not want to work for Ron Dennis

Hello good Dr,
Why would you want gas numbers fronm the dyno room? After mapping I can measure these anywhere. The car doesn't have a cat though. I will definitely measure emissions as I want to know how 'dirty' my cams are. Chances are map/dyno will be with only the CSC's but this will show exactly what the cams are worth over the Motronic ones. It will be interesting.
Jim K.

Jk you are absolutely correct hence the reason I have the 3.0 24v in the race car. I figured that after Jean Todt rejected my CV in 2006 on the basis I could only drive at 60% of the engines capability(over estimated). 2007 looked better and probably got to 62%(still no drive). Bottom line is I was happiest on the track in my 12v 2.5 and the way the new Regs for historic racing(k series) are going to be adopted world wide by 2010 so every one will be runing back to 12v motors. We were briefed on the future introduction of these rules at kyalami last week and warned not to start building fancy big bore engines for racing. Note we have a different rules here.
There are lots of chaps here in SA who dont have money but would like a little extra out of there 12v's for the road, starting to Q at the bookshops after some rumour that the book was out. Not sure where that came from.
Anyway goodluck and we will keep that special place on the book shelf open.

Hi Kevin,
Its not just SA alone going to these rules. As a matter of fact, I don't think 24v motors are allowed anywhere in official FIA classes in rwd cars. You are helping make up my mind about the book in order to speed it up; include the 24v build but not installation and testing. Maybe I'll find someone around here to buy it, put it in their car then map/dyno. If I go this way, things will be accelerated quite a bit. Makes me feel better already!
Lets see if I remember how to attach a pic here! These are the prototype pre-production headers; give me a few more weeks and I hope to have good news re. the price and where you can get them from. The 'Y' piece is for connecting the two outlets when you shorten them for a single exit, otherwise its not used in the std system.
Jim K.

Force them to make a limited run and add the 24v in the second printing.

Those pipes are seriously good. People forget how difficult it is to make a header that works properly and fits into the GTV.
Regards to book,just 24v build would be great. No need for installation at this stage as that becomes major work unless you specify 164 based 24v and not 166 based as 164 is gazillion times easier. That could alone take another year and then another two years for cams mapping, developing headers that work and fit. whew

Oooh shiny!

They look magnificent though, really brilliant design. Now I think we'll all be eagerly awaiting information regarding the price!

ROCK ON
R~R

Hi.

I ordered the Book from Amazon.

No Luck!

When will the book be available?
From Who?

Hi all,

I have been informed that jims book will be available mid november!!!

PB UK

Have you two even read this thread?

I vote for what ever will get the book out the earliest!

Ive already pre-ordered it from play.com ! so should you

cant wait for Jims book it has been on order with amazon for a long time has anybody have an idea about when it will be available?