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Michael
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Post by Michael »

Hi Barry :D Yay - thats very kind of you!
I'll email you.
Cheers,
Michael
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kevin
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Post by kevin »

Hi Michael, pic of the tensioner you wanted. Its only for a 164 engine. With this set up I would change belts every 30000km as its a fixed tensioner.(not sure where I sucked 30000km out of). Only made(Barry did) this tensioner as the old one was broken and I have a similiar one on the 3.2 24v motor for the last four years.
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Post by Michael »

Cheers - so basically its a thread tapped into that expansion cylinder device with an added bolt and nut so one now has a means to be set in a fixed position. Is the stock tensioner (which lengthens the rod as the engine heats up) failure prone in this regard?
I remember Barry mentioning something about this earlier on in the project. I'm not averse to changing the belt more frequently - its cheap in comparison to 24 valves :)
Do you use any special tools to set the tension? I hear there is a special part consisting of a lever and certain weights which are needed to set the tension by-the-book as well as some cam locks.
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Post by Mats »

I don't get it, are there actually more cars out there with a belt-detensioner device? I have never heard of it on any other car then Alfa V6. Even the Alfa 16v engines are fixed belt tensioners right? So why bother with anything else?
Is it the unusually crappy belt routing that drives that silly detensioner? normally the intake cam doesn't get more then maybe 100* of belt wrap on the pulley anyway.
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Post by kevin »

Hi Michael, I have three 164's and total milage between them is nearly 700 000km. I have never had any problems or tensioner failures but when I do buy old engines I usually chainge the tensioner or get Barry(or machine shop) to thread one. I watched Barry do one in five minutes. You only need a nineteen spanner to tension belts and then lock it. Rotate engine a few times and check tension again.
Long time ago I rotated a 24v engine the wrong way while doing the prop and belts jumped off so that was the main reason I went for this set up .
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Post by kevin »

Michael, how is the motor coming on. Just looking at old posts, why did you not use the 2.5 12v alternator tension bracket on your 24v. All you have to do is swivel it 180 degrees so its held by two of the water pump bolts and its still totally adjustable. Been using that method for five years and no problems and its easy to chainge belts if you have to.
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Post by x-rad »

Pics?? Kevin
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Post by kevin »

Got laptop back. Will put pics up shortly.
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Post by kevin »

Pics of pulley on 3.7 out the car and pics of it on 3.2 motor which has been in car for five years.
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Post by kevin »

on 3.2
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Post by kevin »

Had to cut covers to accomodate pulley bracket
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Michael
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Post by Michael »

Yeah - that looks good .
I bought a 164 alternator and would like to use that since it puts out lots more power and my GTV6 alternator is a bit old now - but I think I can modify the 164 unit to use the GTV6 alternator mounting points anyway.
What kind of car is the serpentine belt from?
Knowing Make/Model will save me lots of trial and error at the parts store! Hopefully it is from a car also sold in the USA...

The project has been stalled for a while since I'm traveling quite a lot for work (leaving for China on Monday) and just don't have time. Hopefully I'll have time to look at it in a few weeks. I miss my GTV6 :(
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scott.venables
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Post by scott.venables »

That belt looks like a 5PK850 which will translate into Bosch/Dayco/Gates part numbers

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Post by kevin »

Just took a measurement and went to the parts store and pulled it off the shelf.
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fixed tensioner

Post by slyalfa »

You might be able to use a camery part where the threaded bolt goes. They seem to work well on the camery . And they are oil filled so they will not osclate.
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camery installed
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