ALFAGTV6.COM

[ALFA GTV6 GP]

You are the Don of the Dots and the King of the Rings Mats.

[MD]

Long live the King...

[Mats]

[PietereQ]

eat this
ż ź ć ś ó ą ę ł ń

Going "color" thread

[ALFA GTV6 GP]

Id rather eat Borsch and that stuff comes out the same colour it goes in...

[darryl longley]

Just sat here and read the whole thread. Ive always thought about a 24 valve conversion but Id be hacked off if id thought Id bought an engine and had it shipped all the way from south africa expecting it to be ready to install and two and a half years later its still not done.Micheal mate you must be one hell of a patient guy.
I think Ill stick with the 30l 12valve for my next engine swap. Ive got one ready to put in (from a 75) but i hope it doesnt take me 2 years. I miss driving my 2.5 for more than a week so god knows youlle be icthing to get yours finished.
I have a 164 24v which I bought for the engine but i think Ill keep it where it is at the moment but one day I may tackle the swap and your thread is definatley informative and explains the difficulties and how to overcome them.
Keep up the good work and I sincereley hope you get it finished soon.
Looking forward to the rest of the story

[superfly tnt]

eat this
ż ź ć ś ó ą ę ł ń

Going "color" thread

Đ

[Michael]

Hi:

Here are some new pics.
The wiring and fuel delivery is pretty much done:

Engine bay with all wiring in place...


I tucked away/removed as much of the unused wiring as possible.


Closer view of the Gotech loom and FPR


Coil packs tucked behind the bonnet catch mechanism (..yes, the wipers still work)...


Closer view of the coil packs.


Instrument panel showing the modified clock binacle - now contains the Gotech rich/lean potentiometer and the Zeitronix WideBand O2 display.


Gotech module mounted in place of the Bosch ECU - still need to tidy up the wiring.
Zeitronix Wideband O2 control module installed above. I'm using the narrow band output to drive the Gotech lambda functionality - hopefully this will be good enough to allow the car to pass smog tests.


Next Step - finish the engine.


I still need to replace the timing belt, set the belt tension properly and seal up the cam covers again. Also need a new oil pressure sender (the one on the engine broken during shipping), install the new header gaskets and a litany of other things.

And this...
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3195&p=32188#p32188

[Michael]

Next chapter in this saga:
Both left and right headers are warped, discovered this when I started final assembly and the header flange will not lie flat on the face of the head.
The machine shop to whom I took the headers to get them fixed, think that one of them is out of flat by ~3mm accross the face of the flange, and are probably not usable because of the quantity of material they would need to grind off the face to make it flat. Obviously, they must be perfectly flat in order to seal properly.

One thing I'm confused about is this pic ....



These are a pic from Kevin from earlier in the thread - but my headers dont look like these at all.

This is what my headers look like:



Are there different makers? I assumed that Kevin made them all?

[Mats]

Will that even clear the side of the engine bay?

[Barry]

Nothing wrong with the headers.3mm? Take it off,no problem.
The silvery ones are simply Powercoated,thats all.
Mats,yes,plenty of clearance.Things are not just thrown into a box and hope that it all works.
Kev,told you-not worth getting involved.

[ar4me]

Michael,
On a separate topic: Call John and make sure you get a relay on the coil packs so that they don't fire until the starter is spinning.
Jes

[Michael]

Nothing wrong with the headers.3mm? Take it off,no problem.
The silvery ones are simply Powercoated,thats all.

Actually, the design is different. On my headers, the pipe exiting #1 cylinder is attached to the collector between the pipes for cylinders 2 and 3 - the pipes cross over one another. In the other design, the pipes are attached to the collector in the same order they exit from the head - no crossing over.

[Barry]

Both made by the same company.Kevins designs.
Made on jigs that kevin spent hours on perfecting.
If it was not for this guy a lot of conversions would not be happening.

[kevin]

Thanks B, Michael it is possible that one of these earlier sets might have not been fully welded in its jig once it was spot welded(therefore warp). However having said that it is not a problem as a slight skim and tightened up to head gives a perfect seal. If still not happy you can cut through one of the webbs in the flange (like on a 12v near the dip stick) and when you tighten it up it pulls it independantly level. Or even cut two areas. I would not stress about it is does and will work properly. If you have anyone here in SA who is flying back and forth I can give a nother set (no cost) and keep the other. Let me know. Alternatively buy two tubes of silicone ...