ALFAGTV6.COM

Check it out here: http://www.hiperformancestore.com/superredverde.htm

For now, this is an alfagtv6.com exclusive. There is no other link to this page anywhere, not even on my own site. Up until now only about a 1/2 dozen people on a sort of need to know basis have seen this page.

very impressive!

By the way, if you are looking for a way to strengthen bushings such as the rear tranny mount, you can fill the gaps in the bushing with black polyurethane (home depot) Avoid air pockets and fill in layers over a week... will make bushing very firm(but pliable under enough stress)

Did this to my rear engine bushing after centering it...worked out very well

Great work Greg - as always.
You've done a great job of documenting this job and I'm sure we'll all be referring to it for ideas on a regular basis.
Question.Is the SZ spherical bushing on the front of the dedion truly something that could be lived with on a daily basis on the street ? I understand the benefit but have read differing opinions as to how it contibutes to noise,vibration and harshness.

Holy cow Greg. Amazing work. The Oldbottles Skunk Works has been busy this year!

When will you be selling the sump guards?

Thanks guys.
Murray, the SZ bearing is a mod you can live with. In fact if it fits in properly you probably won't even notice any increased harshness. In our case it has fit properly in 3 out of 4 cars.

The problem that does surface is that in some cases the bearing tends to bind in its mount. This seems to be caused by either a slightly too large bearing housing or a slightly too small mounting hole in the Dedion tube. This happened on my dad's car and the result is a very annoying creaking sound. To eliminate it we will have to pull the bearing back out and increase the clearance somehow.

Dave, thanks. The sump guards are on the back burner. Too much supercharging stuff going on right now (the high boost 3.0 and Spider). Hopefully sometime this summer they will be ready.

Greg,As always,superb work and design!!

May I criticize though?
I almost feel quilty saying this,everything is so well done..
The oval outlet to round intake pipe..Its not major,but not good for transitional flow..Stainless dairy pipe..they make conical reducers and even offset reducers that you could use here..

Again,NICE ONE MERRIL!!

Oval pipes with a hos+clamp around them are farking impossible to get leak free as well. You might think they don't leak but try pressurizing the system in the garage and you will see/hear them leaking. The 75 T has this problem from the factory and it drove me nuts.

Just so no-one is disappointed I'll add some of my own whining as well ( ). The sides of the shroud around the air-filter looks a bit too close to the filter sides to be able to flow freely, I'd made the box a bit bigger to be on the safe side. Are there any package issues around there?

I see the amount of work that has gone into that car though, absolutely massive job!

greg very impressive once again and so good to see another successful project. i too have a question for you though..please please please tell me more about the metal canceller for the indicater stalk...lollll to be honest it has always completely slipped my mind of making them out of metal, its just one of those ideas that stares u in the face but u never realise it. in regards to the allen cap bolts in the axles i too have had this problem many a time and have always found it quite easy to cut off the head of the bolt using and angle grinder. the axle can then slip out or u may even find after cutting the head off sometimes u can turn the remaining bolt by hand. anywaze alot of hard work in that car and just wana say congratulations from me.

cheers

Of course before we delivered it we did dyno test it. The car put down 265hp and 250 lb/ft of torque at THE WHEELS on just 7.5 pounds of boost.


Fantastic power figures! Such an amazing engine under boost. And only 7.5 pounds of it.

Well done and look forward to some vids!!

Didnt get the last of photos though....

Of course critical viewpoints are welcome. That's why I am posting it on this forum first. A lot of the people here are highly knowledgeable and many have done this type of work before.

There is no doubt that if we were all to design a supercharger installation on a stock Verde we would all do it a little differently. That's why this type of operation is part science and part art.

Patzo: The metal turn signal cancellers are an off the shelf part that comes with the hub adapter from Vick Autosports. This explains why it costs $95. It's worth using this wheel just to upgrade the turn signal cancelers. Your point about grinding off the bolt heads is a good one, that would have saved some time. However I am not sure I can get my dad to agree to brind a grinder near a car, he hates that.

The oval to round transition out of the intercooler seems to be causing some interest.

Barry your point about the oval to round transition causing some turbulence would normally be valid. However you can't see inside the part from the angle of the photo. Internally it's not a straight oval to round transition, it has fairly smooth slopes guiding the air from the side of the oval to the round pipe. A transition cone crushed to a oval shape at the big end would have been better still. I will probably do that next time. In this case time and budget dictated this route.

Mats, I did pressurize it, it's leak free. Keep in mind this is a factory G.M. intercooler made by Garret for the Syclone. The Syclone guys are often pushing as much as 20psi or more through this intercooler. It's just oval enough so that the T-Bolt still seals it up pretty well.

Of course the ultimate test of the piping's efficiency is a comparison between the actual boost numbers and the mathmatical numbers for this supercharger on this motor from the supercharger manufacturer. At this drive ratio they show it should have about 8 psi with this supercharger mounted in the most efficeint place, the center of the V. I am getting 7.5psi with all the piping and blowing through an intercooler. That shows that overall, the piping is pretty efficeint.

Mats, if the airbox was any wider at the front it would be taking in radiator exhaust so that dimension is limited. I couldn't bulge it out aft of that point because at the base it's sealed to the battery tray. If I extended it out in that direction it would take in engine compartment air. The only way to make it larger without taking in hot air would involve a more complex structure. Since the airbox has at least as much air around it as most factory filter boxes I feel it's ok. The Cobalt SS supercharged comes with a cone filter in a sealed box and it has much less room around it. I think a bigger box would be a case of spending a lot of time and customer cash for a very minimal improvement.

Garth: Thanks! As it's not my car I couldn't tear around town and make some illegal drag racing videos There is a video of the first start up on this site somewhere.

Ah no problem Greg cheers.

Let us know if boost goes higher and what power figures are achieved!

Greg,
That's a great read - the power delivery sounds awesome!

Love your note "Perhaps more important than the peak numbers is the amount of power the engine has throughout the rpm range. It has a massive 220 lb/ft of torque at the wheels at just 2000 rpm. That's more than most 24valve 3.0s ever have, even highly modified ones. When you hit the gas in this car at any rpm it charges forward instantly! There is no waiting for rpm to build, it just goes."

GV

Probably an easier install than a 24 valve too
Greg, are you planning to sell/ship kits again in the future?

Wait a minute, is GG going to stop making this kit??

Awesome Greg, my congratulations again on the results!!