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That is approx 330-350 crank hp from a 2.78 ltr engine.
Think I first go the dyno with the cams backups 6 degrees and a normal cam setting just for testing and see what the difference is.

Hans already sold the car to a Norwegian guy I think. Regardless, that 75 was a beast!

For idle can you adjust injector end angle or phasing with the EFI you have? In some cases it has helped idle quality and response. I will do that this weekend.

No sequential injection for me...

I'm reducing the volume now after the throttle body wich helps and with a supercharger application where the throttle body is placed in front of the charger, the volume is big.

These are the cams i got. I must say i'm not an expert on cams but these don't look to crazy in my opinion.



These are the cams of hans his charged 75:

Https://www.alfabb.com/attachments/cams ... g.261017//

Here is a crude VVT system. Dual pulley so the tension is maintained.

https://youtu.be/ofPN55F-A3c

Saw that one also too on youtube. If you see it running...

Was thinking about the same principle. The only thing with the 12 valver is space...

almost ready to get MOT. Did some testing miles on the road. Looks all good.

Post you the last updates:

smaller water pump pulley for cooler idle temps at hot weather. Full load never is a problem. I see around 82 degrees celcius then.



Reduced unusefull 'plenum' volume behind the throttle mainly for better idle. It works great and it reacts like factory now when letting of the throttle. It catches so nice. Also i welded in some boxes in the supercharger support plate to further decrease the volume and make it flow better i hope. lets find out:

before:



after:



And added a second sump vetilation port. Still need to reroute the hose:

Looks really good. Have you thought about electric waterpump?

Great going ! I always shudder at electric water pumps due to electrical faults I have come across (so old school). I wouldn't rather have strong fans and a warning light if they cut out. At least I can keep going to my next point. Maybe you could argue the waterpump belt can snap .... But that is so rare. Anyway not to digress , let's see more pics please !

Thought of an electric wp but i'll hope the smaller pully and the new position af the waterinercooler radiator will do the trick. I once had a snapped belt and that is why i connected a buzzer to the arc. When the car doen't charge the battery the buzzer alarms. So when the belt snaps the alternater and waterpump don't run.

I had a water pump alternator belt snap. At the time time the car had no instruments so I didn't know until I smelt the burning antifreeze. Car overheated bad (V6 2.5L) but after it cooled down and a coolant refill all was good. Five years later it's still running on those head gaskets.

The buzzer attached to the charging light is an excellent idea.

Bye

New quickrelease sump vetilition plug with an o-ring and reroute the hose.

Because of some strange timing issues i made a new bracket for the crank sensor. Timing was jumping +/- 20 deg.... hope it helps. Never had the problem before. Maybe the slight new position after engine rebuilt causes this. I dont now. The old bracket had some flex in it. Harness seems to be ok.

Another small work of art..

Is it possible that you may have a loose front pulley?