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OK, headgasket, can I get a 0.5 point bump in compression with thinner head gasket? I might supercharge my 3.2 later on and would like to avoid milling the head if that is possible.

A friend of mine is having cometic make an MLS type gasket for his 3.5 24V for his 105. I wonder if I could do the same.

Finally the crank is balanced!




And i've got piston rings:

Wow, that was more than just a little bit of drilling. Thank god, imagine the feeling if he had said "It's ok, no drilling needed"

Hah! That's what MOST of those bolting rwd flywheels to ex-fwd engines say! ...The less you know, the better off you are!
Jim K.

i really wonder how do those engines run where they just swap 15kg dualmass for singlemass 8kg...

The best answer is: WHO CARES?
Jim K.

You know what they say.... if it ain't broken.... eventually it will break but who gives a %*&^ anyway, because the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, etc will break first.

Cleaning the crank




Measuring all again with new bearings




crank assembled and main bearings torqued




liners in (widest side aligned with crank - well they are within specs anyway)




ring gaping (took me 3 hours to do and measure all!)




pistons and rods assembled and put into block

Nice!

Feels good to finally put everything back together, right?

Feels great!


all torqued up at the bottom




assembly spins with 10nm of force (i think that's ok - i googled for some numbers hehe)




head gaskets, lifter cleaned, new water pump...








it's getting bigger

Make sure washer between pulley and crank is in good condition and not been crushed . Happens now and then which causes oil pump failures

Let's put it to the test. How many fingers do you need to turn the rotating assembly? Just a push of a single finger? On my 12V I rebuilt 10 years ago, I needed 3 fingers to start rotating it, then just a finger would keep it rotating. My mechanic said the crank or the caps/block not 100% true, but shouldn't be a real issue. He was right, the engine is running strong 10 years later.

Come on you guys, you're not seriously measuring with fingers! A newly rebuilt block with no heads, spark plugs or cams, should turn with 5Nm max (4cyl) and 6-7Nm max (6cyl). This is not the breakaway torque, but the constant/even turning effort. Note that on the V6 you have torque variations every 60* while turning, but the max values must not be exceeded. If you need more effort, maybe your crank is not straight, or the block, or you have expander rings or wrong clearances....
jim K.

Well mine spins from standstill with 10nm (breakaway torque?) then ofcourse it goes easier. Some say that this should be measured without piston rings or even piston and conrods???
I think it's ok.


Cams are in:




I spinned the oil pump with a drill to get some oil into all channels




cam sprockets on




belt (ofcourse i have to time everything with dial gauge)




oil temp. and pressure sensors

Breakaway torque takes about 3 fingers, but to keep it spinning, for my engine, almost no effort at all, definitely at or below 10nm.

I'm going to throw out the mechanical waterpump. My 164 Super 24V's pump is on the way out, only 10K miles. That's it! What a POS! The labor alone is a PITA. With an electric pump I can place it in a way where it doesn't take more than 1 hr to replace and don't have to disturb any belts.

Your build looks awesome! Hope you go ITB soon