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Nah, I'm letting that go past the keeper.. Don't wanna mess up any legit advice.

I know less and less grey brain cells are rolling up to work everyday in that biscuit tin you got between the ears so I am gonna go easy onya just this once...

Vacation for 3 weeks? I'm going for 2 weeks at the end of August. No engine to work on. 12V sold.

Good! You're rich now with the billions you got for the 12v, so go buy a 1.8T and start fiddling with it!

Jim K.

Correction, I only got half a million for my 12V. But some dude sold me a 3.2 instead of the 1.8T.....

Enjoy your vacation Jim.

If I get my Sh-t together with my turbo 105 project in the near future, It will be me looking behind at you, MD
I'll do another Brisbane road trip when it's back together MD

Z, what are your 3.2 plans?
My 2.5 screamer is sold and the 3.2 process starts at the end of the week.
The question is, do I put some rods and Pistons in or just leave it stock and see what I can get??

Hope the JK2 cams are getting close!

It's being rebuilt. All it has are shaved heads, JK 10mm cams, max speeding rods. Otherwise it's stock.

Just contacted Joe Beninca and he gave me a good deal on an Autronic SM3. Evaluating between that and an Emerald K6.

I am wondering, how much stress than the engine take over its lifetime.

Mine is at 131k km or approximately 82,000 miles.

The only work done to it was fitting the cams and shaving the heads by 1.3mm.


At this rate, I'm thinking if I should continue to track the car under high loads, or save it as a daily driver......


Or should I open it up only when something breaks...
So far the engine runs great, pulls well and has pretty decent compression numbers at the range of 220-240 psi.

75evo wrote:It's being rebuilt. All it has are shaved heads, JK 10mm cams, max speeding rods. Otherwise it's stock.

Just contacted Joe Beninca and he gave me a good deal on an Autronic SM3. Evaluating between that and an Emerald K6.

has anyone who has used the maxspeeding rods confirm if they have the correct offset as the standard rods do..

though did see a crankshaft that has had the bearings centered to the bores for sale.

The Max... I put in my 3.2 did not have offset but they are centered on the piston pins when you shine a light up the bore -that's all I care to see plus the little thrust movement on the crankpins. Personally, I couldn't give a rat's ass about offset. I used Max... non-offset rods on Alfa 1.8T also, no problems there either for 3 years now -that being an engine they beat the crap out of!

Jim K.

Jim K wrote:The Max... I put in my 3.2 did not have offset but they are centered on the piston pins when you shine a light up the bore -that's all I care to see plus the little thrust movement on the crankpins. Personally, I couldn't give a rat's ass about offset. I used Max... non-offset rods on Alfa 1.8T also, no problems there either for 3 years now -that being an engine they beat the crap out of!

Jim K.

thanks for the reply Jim. I thought as much as offset is minimal and most aftermarket rods are not offset..

they seem a fair ways lighter too so thats what is swaying me..

standard rods seem perfectly acceptable for a street motor but arent light

For any kind of performance use, std rods should be more than adequate, given the very short stroke of these V6's. Why then do we buy aftermarket in this case?... I would urge someone to run back-to-back tests regarding tensile strength etc between std and Max rods... I once compared my THS V6 rods to Carrillo rods but not to std Alfa ones. I no longer have the means to do it again where I used to work.
You would all be well-advised to read up on I vs H beam rod characteristics... Very interesting stuff!

Jim K.

Hi Jim,
Just to repeat my question above, at what milage should I open the 24v engine for a rebuild or overhaul? While there's no problems now, I'd hate to have down time pop up unexpectedly if I continue to push the engine hard on track days.


Thanks!

A good test we do if compression is good is to lift the car up, drain the oil, remove the oil sump and then the bearing caps (except the rear main cap) one by one for inspection of bearings and crank journals. I believe this is a definitive test for engine condition. If necessary, you can replace bearings. Upper halves can be rotated/pushed out carefully with a suitable tool (ie flat screwdriver).

Jim K.

Got it!

Jim K wrote:For any kind of performance use, std rods should be more than adequate, given the very short stroke of these V6's. Why then do we buy aftermarket in this case?... I would urge someone to run back-to-back tests regarding tensile strength etc between std and Max rods... I once compared my THS V6 rods to Carrillo rods but not to std Alfa ones. I no longer have the means to do it again where I used to work.
You would all be well-advised to read up on I vs H beam rod characteristics... Very interesting stuff!

Jim K.

well was going to use the rods i had but stripped both engine 3.0 24v and both had oil holes.
priced bolts new too and 8.75 each plus vat so 126 quid

but had a little luck and found brand new rods with new bolts and no oil holes for £77.00
do bought them quick until i decide further..

thanks for all the info Jim