Fuel Tanks...
Two questions here....
My fuel tank is clogging up my return line...which is raising pressure on the system to about 95PSI...not exactly what i'm looking for. I've tried cleaning out the banjo fitting but there is an obstruction in the tank. First question is...
How hard is it to remove the tank? Draining the tank is no big deal, nor is remove the gear from the bottom of it. I know it comes out the back. Any tricks to make it easier on me?
Second is, do I need a new tank if this has started rusting or can I just flush it? And does that mean I have to recoat it? Ok, so its three questions...
Thanks for your help.
Rob
'84 GTV6
My fuel tank is clogging up my return line...which is raising pressure on the system to about 95PSI...not exactly what i'm looking for. I've tried cleaning out the banjo fitting but there is an obstruction in the tank. First question is...
How hard is it to remove the tank? Draining the tank is no big deal, nor is remove the gear from the bottom of it. I know it comes out the back. Any tricks to make it easier on me?
Second is, do I need a new tank if this has started rusting or can I just flush it? And does that mean I have to recoat it? Ok, so its three questions...
Thanks for your help.
Rob
'84 GTV6
Fuel
jrreeve,
How about some clues like what is the substance that appears to be clogging up the works?
Is it rust, contaminated fuel or what?
How about some clues like what is the substance that appears to be clogging up the works?
Is it rust, contaminated fuel or what?
Transaxle Alfas Haul More Arse
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- Verde
- Posts: 1552
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2004 7:06 pm
Pulling the tank is straightforward, no real issues or tricks to it. Have it cleaned out at a place that does that sort of work. They will probably tumble it in acid for a few hours which will remove everything including the paint. Repaint and reinstall.
The GTV6 tank really has to be cleaned out by a specialist. There are so many baffles in there you can't get debris out of all the nooks and crannys yourself. Of course this is also why you don't lose fuel pressure when driving hard with 1/8 tank of fuel.
The GTV6 tank really has to be cleaned out by a specialist. There are so many baffles in there you can't get debris out of all the nooks and crannys yourself. Of course this is also why you don't lose fuel pressure when driving hard with 1/8 tank of fuel.
"Of course this is also why you don't lose fuel pressure when driving hard with 1/8 tank of fuel. "
Hmmmm.....Greg, there's a 270deg right-turn off-ramp on my way to work. With a 1/4 tank or less, I can make her cut out every time. It really upsets the balance.
I guess there's only so much baffling that can be done!
Hmmmm.....Greg, there's a 270deg right-turn off-ramp on my way to work. With a 1/4 tank or less, I can make her cut out every time. It really upsets the balance.
I guess there's only so much baffling that can be done!
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- Verde
- Posts: 1552
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2004 7:06 pm
Repost from the BB..
Well,
Tank came out pretty easily. Not a huge project...actually one of the easier removals i've had so far. The problem with the tank was the return line cylinder was clogged. The cylinder that the banjo fitting screws into has a tiny hole to allow gas to go back through it, rust or something had clogged it. A clogged return hole with cause pressure up to 95PSI on the system, and for the return lines (which are not pressure rated) thats bad. It actually makes the whole car run like S*&T!!!
After removing the tank it was a matter of clearing the hole. Somewhat of a pain, because its hard to get anything to in the cylinder itself and then in the return hole. Easiest thing I could find was a small allen that I had to modify to get in there. I couldn't clear it with just the allen unfortunately, so I went down to the Home Depot and bought a gallon or two of Muratic Acid, (NASTY STUFF! It's handy to keep a box of baking soda near by.) And its only 7$!!!
I put a little bit (capful MAX!) of the HCL in the cylinder, rinsed it with water and baking soda and repeated. After a little while, the hole cleared with the allen. Then it was just a matter of cleaning the tank, letting it dry, and putting it in. It is also a good idea to drop in a bottle of HEET or some other type of water solvent then go and fill up the tank.
Please be careful with water and fuel tanks...and especially the Muratic Acid...the last thing you want to do is run water or HCL through your engine...typicallly, not a good thing.
This is just a suggestion and a cheap fix for a clogged pin hole. If you want to refurb your tank, take it to someplace that does tank-renu, for $250-450 you can get the whole tank stripped, sealed, cleaned, patched, and painted. If you have ever looked at the GTV6 tank, there are a helluva lot of baffles in there, more than I thought, and I would not suggest doing it at home.
Hope this helps down the road.
Rob
'84 GTV6
Well,
Tank came out pretty easily. Not a huge project...actually one of the easier removals i've had so far. The problem with the tank was the return line cylinder was clogged. The cylinder that the banjo fitting screws into has a tiny hole to allow gas to go back through it, rust or something had clogged it. A clogged return hole with cause pressure up to 95PSI on the system, and for the return lines (which are not pressure rated) thats bad. It actually makes the whole car run like S*&T!!!
After removing the tank it was a matter of clearing the hole. Somewhat of a pain, because its hard to get anything to in the cylinder itself and then in the return hole. Easiest thing I could find was a small allen that I had to modify to get in there. I couldn't clear it with just the allen unfortunately, so I went down to the Home Depot and bought a gallon or two of Muratic Acid, (NASTY STUFF! It's handy to keep a box of baking soda near by.) And its only 7$!!!
I put a little bit (capful MAX!) of the HCL in the cylinder, rinsed it with water and baking soda and repeated. After a little while, the hole cleared with the allen. Then it was just a matter of cleaning the tank, letting it dry, and putting it in. It is also a good idea to drop in a bottle of HEET or some other type of water solvent then go and fill up the tank.
Please be careful with water and fuel tanks...and especially the Muratic Acid...the last thing you want to do is run water or HCL through your engine...typicallly, not a good thing.
This is just a suggestion and a cheap fix for a clogged pin hole. If you want to refurb your tank, take it to someplace that does tank-renu, for $250-450 you can get the whole tank stripped, sealed, cleaned, patched, and painted. If you have ever looked at the GTV6 tank, there are a helluva lot of baffles in there, more than I thought, and I would not suggest doing it at home.
Hope this helps down the road.
Rob
'84 GTV6