ALFAGTV6.COM

[Glen B]

Hello all, great site.

I have an '82 GTV6 2.5 all stock,except for a complete engine rebuild 1500km ago, with the 0-280-001-113 ecu in her, but the o2 sensor(Lamda) lead has been touched against the 12v starter motor source (on the fire wall), instead of lead in one hand and touch the 12v source with the other hand . Now it doesn't rev up or down when I touch the lead.
A new O2 sensor has no effect and it feels like its flooding, boggs down in the beginning of first gear. Over 2500-3000 rpm its fine, and the other gears are ok. Starts and idles great.
So now Iv'e slipped in this euro ecu 0-280-001-117 (UK source), AHHHH what's that noise!!! grumble,burp,pop ....Got it warmed up and it idles ok , but bucks and lurches, oooh my poor old clutch.

Is the circuit that different on the inside? I checked the GTV6.ORG archives but didn't catch much except for a bmw spec. ecu upgrade. Are the temp sensor and AFM pins in the same position on our US versions?
This has only been a 15 min 7km test run without adjusting the timing. So I'm gonna coax her back to the shop tonight and fiddle with that, and maybe the vacume advance mechanism.

Thanks for any help, Glen

[Glen B]

Well since nobody said not to use the Euro ecu Bosch#0-280-001-117, I went ahead and put a few more kilometers on the unit. Got her warmed up to service temp and proceded to bump up the ignition timing. Lap around the block , then a little more advance, test, and so on. WOW !!
This car had never laid a patch since the rebuild , not even spun much gravel.
See the thing of it was that when I first started tuning this motor after the rebuild, I had the plenum blow off while bumping up the ignition timing. I wasn't looking forward to having that thing exploding in my face again. Maybe the valves just needed a bit of run-in after a fresh grind and new guides. In a few more trips maybe a tad more advance , but not much.
But as she stands the timing light puts the pointer 3/4 of the way from the 'P' letter towards the 'M' mark at 900rpm idle (it's what the dash tac reads, should drop that idle speed a bit but it seems to respond faster from there). Now lets see if it starts first time when cold. Glen

[Glen B]

I just wanted to add this , she started well the next morning and warmed up quicker. So we went for a quick spin to Prince George and back to Smithers ,(740km around) to look at some parts supply stores, and all the way there and back the oil pressure gauge sat on the peg. Was 55-60 at start-up but went to nothing when warm.
Power was ok, maybe little softer after four hours running (lunch break) . Might need a little more advance , seems to really take off after 3000rpm . Should more advance make it respond sooner in the RPM curve? to a point at least before pre detonation knok.

This should be in the engine section.
I picked up another oil gauge that is fed by the thin tube. Set that into a brass "T" , and reinstalled the original sender. But when I removed the hot sender there was steam or hot gas comming out at the crimp seal at the base of the sender , and not out of the oil hole like I was expecting. Thats odd, so I found a good hose clamp and slid it around the larger part of the barrel sender, and clamped it tight... Hey that did it. No more oil puddle on top of the block casting and so far it keeps a pressure signal. It doesn't match the extra gauge reading , but looks better than zero psi

[Steve R]

Hi Glen,

For your info the oil pressure senders on the v6's are a known unreliable item, if it works and doesn't leak - great !

Re ignition timing a good start point is set it as per the factory spec, it should run nicely. The general concensus of opinion is it'll run better with about 5 degrees more advance than the factory state. Much more advance than that might start to loose power or give pre ignition. This depends very much on your local fuel quality.

I forget what the crank pulley markings are labeled, but there's two close together -, one at TDC, one at about 9 BDC and another further along at about 32 BTDC. With engine running and vac hose removed and plugged, the factory idle setting is the 9btdc mark, if you rev the engine it should increase to about the 32btdc mark by about 3000 rpm or so. Putting the vac hose back will cause more advance at near closed throttle. You'll probably need to adjust the idle speed too & no doubt you do a few cycles of adjust timing - idle speed -timing- idle speed until it's OK.

Make sure the vac hose is off and plugged when you set it & don't forget to put the vac hose back afterwards and tighten the distributor "hold" nut !

regards