i got a lil more extended run thru the paces..not a great test with it pouring outside but hey i did what i could
seems the plug wires were amplifying the problem more than anything....all of the problems are still there there just alot harder to re-produce...the right hand problem is all but gone but now ive got a minor one to the left as well
i did get a good stumbling revlimit hickup befor she was good and warmed up ...once warm i could only seeming ly re-produce the problems at 70+....im going to need some GOOD weather to realy drive hard and see how much of the problems remains....but atleast the car is semi pleasureable to drive again and i wouldnt hesitate to drive it to the beach and back.....
btw the cap and rotor were scorched HARD id never seen so much build up on the cap end and contact points...silly things only got about 10k miles on the cap and rotor
<starts looking for "good" weather>
ok guys i need some serious help or a walk thru on how to swap the harness out...the car is officaly un-driveable..asumeing i can get it to start it wont idle long and acts like its running on a random set of 3 cyl's poping backfireing and just all out running like total garbage..ive checked the elec connections several times..swaping out plug wires doesnt change a thing....(in fact the milano runs like a top with either set of the plug wires just wish i could swap out "other" components)..i pulled the fuel line on the cold start to get an idea of fuel pressure..im sure its within spec
ima pull the plugs but im sure there getting fowled the cap and rotor are getting scortched so the problem seems to be a feed between the brain the ignition module and the coil........maybe the pickup in the dist?....still doesnt explain shy sometimes it runs right and sometimes it dont run at all
i need help on it ASAP cause i blew something in the engine in the minivan so im basicly imobilized right now
ima pull the plugs but im sure there getting fowled the cap and rotor are getting scortched so the problem seems to be a feed between the brain the ignition module and the coil........maybe the pickup in the dist?....still doesnt explain shy sometimes it runs right and sometimes it dont run at all
i need help on it ASAP cause i blew something in the engine in the minivan so im basicly imobilized right now
i dug out the harness and all the associated stuff that attatches to it and im guessing the harness is milano but not sure..i found the right place for almost everything..2 wires that go down with the O2 sensor(crank position sensor?) a small 9pin connector by the firewall and then 2-3 small connector on the inside of the firewall...obviously these are intigration points for ignition switch and others
unless someones got a solution to the foul running beast
unless someones got a solution to the foul running beast
Shortlife,
while this may not seem related, my car acted like the revlimiter was cutting in early and only giving me about 4500rpm....I found that I had vaccum leaks...the main air hose between the afm and the throttle was off.
I had a hard time keeping the thing on the afm, so I bought Greg''s intake kit and solved THAT problem.
HTH,
Scott
while this may not seem related, my car acted like the revlimiter was cutting in early and only giving me about 4500rpm....I found that I had vaccum leaks...the main air hose between the afm and the throttle was off.
I had a hard time keeping the thing on the afm, so I bought Greg''s intake kit and solved THAT problem.HTH,
Scott
well im running all silicone everywhere but the intake to afm pipe but it looks good...i dont see any issuses in it...guess i could pull the one off the milano and test it
so far from the milano i tested EVERY item that could be swaped on ..plug wires, coil, cap, rotor, afm....hell i even swaped in a thermostat houseing that i know is good so that i could proove if it was a temp sensor or a temp reading causeing the issue..and found a "new" in box resistor(the one next to the coil on the 81-83's) and tryed it
started up fine this mornin drove it about a block and a half and died at a stop light had to push the damn thing off the road..checked every elec conection and still nothing...and a few mins later it simply started up drove it another few blocks and bam same thing again sputter sputter choak pop pop dead..i cant say if its fuel or spark....figured ok ive got a spare igniton box in the trunk that "was" a 2500 rpm problem only but otherwise worked swaped it in and still the same problem..let it sit for about 10 mins and it starts and sputters a little but i managed to nurse it home...
at this point i spent 5 hours on it today checking and testing in all the items i can..every time she would run long enuf for some object to heat up it would sputter pop and die and not start up till said object cools down...problem is ive no bloody clue what the problem item is..im starting to wonder about the dist pickup....its the only item ive not actualy ever swaped out the question is ...can i get one localy i doubt it
funny thing is after putting everything back on the car that was on the car ...it wa running perfect so i sat in the car holding 2krpm for about 10 mins and it wouldnt even hicup......10-1 odds that if i drive it anywhere ill be pushing it again .........i need to swap the electrical or figure it out
so far from the milano i tested EVERY item that could be swaped on ..plug wires, coil, cap, rotor, afm....hell i even swaped in a thermostat houseing that i know is good so that i could proove if it was a temp sensor or a temp reading causeing the issue..and found a "new" in box resistor(the one next to the coil on the 81-83's) and tryed it
started up fine this mornin drove it about a block and a half and died at a stop light had to push the damn thing off the road..checked every elec conection and still nothing...and a few mins later it simply started up drove it another few blocks and bam same thing again sputter sputter choak pop pop dead..i cant say if its fuel or spark....figured ok ive got a spare igniton box in the trunk that "was" a 2500 rpm problem only but otherwise worked swaped it in and still the same problem..let it sit for about 10 mins and it starts and sputters a little but i managed to nurse it home...
at this point i spent 5 hours on it today checking and testing in all the items i can..every time she would run long enuf for some object to heat up it would sputter pop and die and not start up till said object cools down...problem is ive no bloody clue what the problem item is..im starting to wonder about the dist pickup....its the only item ive not actualy ever swaped out the question is ...can i get one localy i doubt it
funny thing is after putting everything back on the car that was on the car ...it wa running perfect so i sat in the car holding 2krpm for about 10 mins and it wouldnt even hicup......10-1 odds that if i drive it anywhere ill be pushing it again .........i need to swap the electrical or figure it out
shortlife
it sounds as if you have replaced all the spark side, then. to confirm, your car doesnt have a crank/flywheel sensor? the only iffy area seems to be the ignition module, since you dont have a proven one. interesting that your cap and rotor are deteriorating very fast though. This was common on olders cars, when distributer condensers failed. Not the case with the GTV6.
just for good
Changed the injection relay?
if all of your earthing and wiring is good, and you say you have change the ECU already, there isn't anything left on the spark side.
The only way forward now, is to drive it again,until it dies and wont start. Then crank it over for 5-10 seconds and pull a spark plug at the road side. If its drowned, then its a spark issue, if its dry, no fuel.............at least that will narrow it down for you.
if it turns out to be fuel starvation, then turning around corners thing , maybe your fuel tank is rusty, full of crap and fowling up the pump. pull out the tank sender and have a look at the tank bottom.
it sounds as if you have replaced all the spark side, then. to confirm, your car doesnt have a crank/flywheel sensor? the only iffy area seems to be the ignition module, since you dont have a proven one. interesting that your cap and rotor are deteriorating very fast though. This was common on olders cars, when distributer condensers failed. Not the case with the GTV6.
just for good
Changed the injection relay?
if all of your earthing and wiring is good, and you say you have change the ECU already, there isn't anything left on the spark side.
The only way forward now, is to drive it again,until it dies and wont start. Then crank it over for 5-10 seconds and pull a spark plug at the road side. If its drowned, then its a spark issue, if its dry, no fuel.............at least that will narrow it down for you.
if it turns out to be fuel starvation, then turning around corners thing , maybe your fuel tank is rusty, full of crap and fowling up the pump. pull out the tank sender and have a look at the tank bottom.
well if i had a spare dizzy id swap it in..its my only thing i dont have a spare...ive got the 87 HEP style but thats a 3wire where the 83 is the old magnetic pickup 2 wire......going to call around and see if i can locate a pickup for the dist to swap in
time to pack up the tools and go for a backroads drive and see if i get spark or fuel when she dies
wheres the injection relay at? thats not the black combi relay on the firewall with 2 plugs going into it is it?
as for a crank sensor where are they normaly located..i figured it would have been the hole in the top of the bell house
time to pack up the tools and go for a backroads drive and see if i get spark or fuel when she dies
wheres the injection relay at? thats not the black combi relay on the firewall with 2 plugs going into it is it?
as for a crank sensor where are they normaly located..i figured it would have been the hole in the top of the bell house
If there is a magnetic pickup in the dizzy then there is your crank sensor. Check for the dizzy shaft runout or wobble and the clearance between the reluctor and pickup in the dizzy. My mopar performance dizzy has a magnetic pickup that wants a .040-.050 clearance.
If the dizzy shaft bushings are worn the clearance between the reluctor and pickup will vary and can cause the pickup to go bad.
If you haven't seen one before, the reluctor looks like a 6 point star...sort of. the pick up is a small plastic box with the 2 wires coming off it.
HTH,
Scott
If the dizzy shaft bushings are worn the clearance between the reluctor and pickup will vary and can cause the pickup to go bad.
If you haven't seen one before, the reluctor looks like a 6 point star...sort of. the pick up is a small plastic box with the 2 wires coming off it.
HTH,
Scott
yeah ive swaped out many a mopar unit..my ramcharger would eat em for lunch..the cuda too so it went mallory
do you by chance have a clearance spec on the gap on the steel star points?(the pickup coil is just a big round wheel under it all)
god i hope the dizzy aint bad or im realy screwed...unless theres a way to convert a 87 unit to an 83 unit lol...the HEP design on the 87 is a much better design ..or atleast it is in the mopar world
do you by chance have a clearance spec on the gap on the steel star points?(the pickup coil is just a big round wheel under it all)
god i hope the dizzy aint bad or im realy screwed...unless theres a way to convert a 87 unit to an 83 unit lol...the HEP design on the 87 is a much better design ..or atleast it is in the mopar world
hey
i just had a thought
change the wire harness from the 87 and the dizzy and the throttle plate with position sensor.
you can keep the early throttle pull on the new throttle, but you'll need a spacer on the throttle shaft itself after you remove the snail wheel of the new throttle assy.
if the new wire harness has 3 wires for the o2 sensor the 3rd is for the heat element in the sensor....you can get away without it.
i just had a thought
change the wire harness from the 87 and the dizzy and the throttle plate with position sensor.
you can keep the early throttle pull on the new throttle, but you'll need a spacer on the throttle shaft itself after you remove the snail wheel of the new throttle assy.
if the new wire harness has 3 wires for the o2 sensor the 3rd is for the heat element in the sensor....you can get away without it.