ALFAGTV6.COM

Hi brookstroutr

Thanks for your comments, the motor has been running only a few weeks ago, it had been rigged to run accross the CSV ( meaning the CSV is functioning), I believe with everything i've done thus far it's heading towards being an electrical gramlin somewhere in amongst the plethera of components relating to firing up the engine.

Back with more news in the new year... presently checking ebay and other sources for parts before placing orders.

I did notice the HT set for the GTV6 seems to be expensive, if anyone has a suggestion at to where best to source ?

Thanks

R

I would still double check the fuel. My'86 was running at the shop on the Monday of the week for shipping to me It wouldn't start on that Friday to put on the transporter. I to went the route checking all the electrics before the fuel.

Good luck!!!

Roger my experience with HT leads has convinced me that the best choice is to spend the money and get the OEM ones.I've tried a variety of aftemarket leads and have never been satisfied.The proper wires cost more but you'll have peace of mind for a long time thereafter.Some people have run "Magnecor" wires with good experience but I've never tried them so I can't comment.

When you state that the car ran

rigged to run accross the CSV

you do realize that this circuit is intended to only fire the CSV for a few seconds on "cold start" - below 35oC ? The CSV should only provide a quick shot of fuel into the plenum on cranking and then off it goes,otherwise you'll drown your plugs and the motor will stall.

Hi Murray

Thats exactly the reason I removed the previous owners handy work in order that I can diagnos where the real prolem lays.

Having a few days relaxation then I'll be back at looking into the problem

R

1)I would change the coil and plugs too. faulty coils are notorious for providing enough current to start, but not to run. And the coil set up you have there, looks like a real bodge job.

2) sound advice, to check the fuel. unleaded is chemical fuel, it goes off and rots seals. It may be that the injectors are all blocked, but the CSI is ok, hence the fire, then dies scenario. does it fire without the CSI hooked up?

3) Check the coolant temperature sensor on the thermostat housing too.

With limited outlets open during the holiday period, I popped down to my local Halfords and bagged some NGK's along with a coil lead.

When removing plug 5 & 6 there appears to be a wet oily deposit, 4 3 2 & 1 were all dry but all 6 plugs were Black.... the oily deposit is a worry and any advice on this will be well recieved.

I've done alot of cleaning up on earths, fuse replacements and general checks, my booster pack is on charge so I'll probably turn her over later today... fingers crossed she fires up but again I have my doubts.

I'm leaning towards abandoning my plans to simply get her up and running for the spring/summer, instead thinking of going headlong into probably a good year long project strip down replace/recon and rebuild from the ground up.

Thoughts anyone

Later... Turned her over, and got a bit of a pop and a puff of smoke from the engine bay...

If you're getting some oil deposits in 5 & 6, you might want to pull the valve covers real quick and re-torque the cylinder heads. I've had good luck by doing this in the past. Then watch these cylinders checking them periodically.

On the advice of a friend, I sprayed some cold start into the air intake at the plenum... the resultant flame (momentary) seems to concur that along with checking the spark at the plugs I do indeed have ignition.

Now I'm still thinking fuel starvation, any more thoughts out there ?

She wants to fire up but it always seems to end with a pop and a puff of smoke.

Does it turn over and fire and then immediately die? If so then it does suggest a faulty ECU.