alfa wont start
hey guys
my 83 alfa gtv6 won't start. I check for spark, and has spark. I checked for gas, by removing the 7th injector and it fired nicely.
The car won't start, it just turns over, and it doesn't even seem likes it's close to firing up.
What should i check for?
Thanks
Greg A
my 83 alfa gtv6 won't start. I check for spark, and has spark. I checked for gas, by removing the 7th injector and it fired nicely.
The car won't start, it just turns over, and it doesn't even seem likes it's close to firing up.
What should i check for?
Thanks
Greg A
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So I headed back to the garage tonight,
I decided to check the compression. I got very scary results. 30-40psi. in 3 cylinders that i checked. 2 were on the drivers side cylinder head, and the other was on the passenger.
What could cause these results?
Flooded engine?
Timming is off?
Bad starter (not turning engine fast enough??
Greg
I decided to check the compression. I got very scary results. 30-40psi. in 3 cylinders that i checked. 2 were on the drivers side cylinder head, and the other was on the passenger.
What could cause these results?
Flooded engine?
Timming is off?
Bad starter (not turning engine fast enough??
Greg
Truthfully sounds like your doing the test wrong.
Are you pulling all the spark plugs .If no,pull them all out .
disconnect the coil lead, then pull the double relay on the fire wall(so you won't flood the engine) while you have the spark plug in your hand smell it. Does it smell like gas?
Are you pulling all the spark plugs .If no,pull them all out .
disconnect the coil lead, then pull the double relay on the fire wall(so you won't flood the engine) while you have the spark plug in your hand smell it. Does it smell like gas?
Drive'm Hard
I"m in New England my car is parked in my drive way with a car cover,
It's 15 degrees out there right now I'll freeze to death if I go out there.
But I still don't beleive it's the dash unit itself ,because I've tried putting in a working 3.0 tach and still nothing. Barry I know you "THE MAN" when it comes to Alfas,So keep the suggestion coming.
Oh YEH Help this poor guy with his problem
It's 15 degrees out there right now I'll freeze to death if I go out there.
But I still don't beleive it's the dash unit itself ,because I've tried putting in a working 3.0 tach and still nothing. Barry I know you "THE MAN" when it comes to Alfas,So keep the suggestion coming.
Oh YEH Help this poor guy with his problem
Drive'm Hard
Yes the spark plugs do smell like gas.
When i did the compression test i removed the wire coming from the coil on the dist. cap. I did not remove all the spark plugs i just removed the one while i tested that cyclinder. I'll redo the test according to your dirrections Jose. That sounds like a much smarter way of doing it!
What's the procedure for checking the timing. What do the marks on the cams look like? and how about the mark on the crank pulley? I've never done that before.
thanks guys.
Greg
When i did the compression test i removed the wire coming from the coil on the dist. cap. I did not remove all the spark plugs i just removed the one while i tested that cyclinder. I'll redo the test according to your dirrections Jose. That sounds like a much smarter way of doing it!
What's the procedure for checking the timing. What do the marks on the cams look like? and how about the mark on the crank pulley? I've never done that before.
thanks guys.
Greg
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Ok, ok.
This is what I would do:
Make sure that everything is timed, cams, rotor button pointing to lead 1 on cap.
Piston 1 on top, stick a screwdriver to feel the top of the piston, set at TDC.
Now line up your cams, either take the rocker covers off or pop the timing belt cam covers off, now look for the marks on the plastic and on the cam wheels.
Remove all the spark plugs, ground the high tension lead get a good compression gauge and crank the engine about 4-6 times with the throttle wide open, note the results.
If u have anything above 100psi this should be ok to start.
Now the fuel, remove the return hose and place a bottle to catch the overflow.
Crack the engine; fuel should start to fill the bottle. If you have a pressure gauge stick it in the cold start injector hose.
Put everything back but one plug; buy new plugs as these might be fouled.
Now put the plug in the leads from the missing cylinder, ground the plug crank the engine and look for a spark.
If all this is ok, then u might have an electrical issue, replace the airflow meter and then the ECU with a known good one.
Hope you have some mates that can lend you the bits, as these are expensive.
This is what I would do:
Make sure that everything is timed, cams, rotor button pointing to lead 1 on cap.
Piston 1 on top, stick a screwdriver to feel the top of the piston, set at TDC.
Now line up your cams, either take the rocker covers off or pop the timing belt cam covers off, now look for the marks on the plastic and on the cam wheels.
Remove all the spark plugs, ground the high tension lead get a good compression gauge and crank the engine about 4-6 times with the throttle wide open, note the results.
If u have anything above 100psi this should be ok to start.
Now the fuel, remove the return hose and place a bottle to catch the overflow.
Crack the engine; fuel should start to fill the bottle. If you have a pressure gauge stick it in the cold start injector hose.
Put everything back but one plug; buy new plugs as these might be fouled.
Now put the plug in the leads from the missing cylinder, ground the plug crank the engine and look for a spark.
If all this is ok, then u might have an electrical issue, replace the airflow meter and then the ECU with a known good one.
Hope you have some mates that can lend you the bits, as these are expensive.
I maka de list, you Justa geta the parts - OK! Wise words from the great master Toni Baloney – Ginger Fingers.
thanks for all the tips
Yesterday was very mild here in toronto and i decided to go to the garage and fire up the heater and see if i could get things rollling.
I was able to check if the timming was correct. I set piston one to T.D.C. and the lines on the cams and the cam cover lined up. The rotor also lined up w/ the cable going to cylinder #1.
When i popped of the cam gear cover. I noticed that the belt had some oil and antifreeze on it. It seems that there's a leak somewhere. So i decided to remove the platic timmning belt cover. I was able to remove the right side, but i could not get the left side out. I remove 2 bolts on each side. It seems that the left cover is hitting up against the a/c belt I tried to remove this belt by losening the pulley but it's still on pretty tight.
How do i remove this timming belt cover? Do i need to remove the a/c belt? Why is my A/C belt so hard to remove?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Greg Aiello
Yesterday was very mild here in toronto and i decided to go to the garage and fire up the heater and see if i could get things rollling.
I was able to check if the timming was correct. I set piston one to T.D.C. and the lines on the cams and the cam cover lined up. The rotor also lined up w/ the cable going to cylinder #1.
When i popped of the cam gear cover. I noticed that the belt had some oil and antifreeze on it. It seems that there's a leak somewhere. So i decided to remove the platic timmning belt cover. I was able to remove the right side, but i could not get the left side out. I remove 2 bolts on each side. It seems that the left cover is hitting up against the a/c belt I tried to remove this belt by losening the pulley but it's still on pretty tight.
How do i remove this timming belt cover? Do i need to remove the a/c belt? Why is my A/C belt so hard to remove?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Greg Aiello
Greg make sure you haven't missed a bolt fastening the cover to the engine.There is one hidden down there that I once missed and had the same trouble.Once all the bolts are out you still have to apply quite a bit of force and wiggle the cover to get it to clear the AC belt and tensioner.
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