starting hesitation (cheap solution and happy ending so far)
Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2007 1:14 am
Since I got my current car I have had intermittent starting hesitation. I cleaned my terminals, which were corroded, but the problem just kept on happening.
I thought that the problem could be the ignition switch, battery, or alternator. I took the machine down to the Autozone for a (free) test of the battery and alternator. The battery was putting out just over 8V. I have no idea how it even started the car.
It seemed that I would be buying a new battery. This news had me bummed out because I didnt want to buy a normal autozone brand battery, I wanted something nice like an Optima or one of those 13 lb racing ones. The standard autozone battery (bought in Mexico) costs 75% what the Optima would cost in the US.
Since the car has been starting with this battery, I asked them to just charge it for me and I would figure out if I was buying their battery or buying a used one as a temporary thing until I can go back across the border to get the battery I really want.
While they were charging the battery I noticed that the bolts that hold the engine mount to the chassis had backed out. I checked and the nut that is on the bottom of the engine mount was completely missing. On the passenger side it was the same deal. The car`s PO did a motor swap and I guess he didnt have any locktite. I felt lucky to have seen that loose bolt.
As I was tightening the bolt on the driver`s side, I noticed that the cable that connects to the alternator seemed frayed. Closer inspection revealed that it was in fact quite frayed. I stripped the cable back and put a new end on it ($2). I re-installed the battery (now charged) and went on my way. Several days later, my battery voltage is still above 12. I think that the frayed wire at the back of the alternator had caused increased resistance and kept my battery from properly charging.
The point here is that you should check to make sure the alternator is well connected before doing anything drastic like buying a battery.
I thought that the problem could be the ignition switch, battery, or alternator. I took the machine down to the Autozone for a (free) test of the battery and alternator. The battery was putting out just over 8V. I have no idea how it even started the car.
It seemed that I would be buying a new battery. This news had me bummed out because I didnt want to buy a normal autozone brand battery, I wanted something nice like an Optima or one of those 13 lb racing ones. The standard autozone battery (bought in Mexico) costs 75% what the Optima would cost in the US.
Since the car has been starting with this battery, I asked them to just charge it for me and I would figure out if I was buying their battery or buying a used one as a temporary thing until I can go back across the border to get the battery I really want.
While they were charging the battery I noticed that the bolts that hold the engine mount to the chassis had backed out. I checked and the nut that is on the bottom of the engine mount was completely missing. On the passenger side it was the same deal. The car`s PO did a motor swap and I guess he didnt have any locktite. I felt lucky to have seen that loose bolt.
As I was tightening the bolt on the driver`s side, I noticed that the cable that connects to the alternator seemed frayed. Closer inspection revealed that it was in fact quite frayed. I stripped the cable back and put a new end on it ($2). I re-installed the battery (now charged) and went on my way. Several days later, my battery voltage is still above 12. I think that the frayed wire at the back of the alternator had caused increased resistance and kept my battery from properly charging.
The point here is that you should check to make sure the alternator is well connected before doing anything drastic like buying a battery.