ALFAGTV6.COM

[GregoryV]

Okay, so I thought I only had 3 gallons of gas left in the tank before draining it into a 5 gallon jug, and of course it had 5.5 gallons in it! I removed all the lines and unscrewed the straps only to find that there is no way that tank is coming out without removing the two bungs on the bottom of the tank. Or so it seems to me...

Of the large one after being wrenched and shocked with a mallet will still not budge and of course gas just stinks! Think I'd rather replace a starter than this!

What I am wondering is with the two bungs on the bottom removed is there even enough room to move the tank up and out? It looks like just barely enough room...

GV

[GregoryV]

Well I looked IN THE MANUAL and it says, "unscrew the unions" what it does not say of course is that unscrewing them will be a SOB... guess I'll take another crack at it tomorrow. GV

[Mats]

Why not just unhook the fuel line somewhere easy (like tthe front) and use the pump to drain the tank? Or is the pump the reason for the tank-out operation?

[GregoryV]

Use the pump to drain the tank that is so obvious I didn't think of it!

Mats, the tank has to come out because for the second time the fuel filter is plugging with orange/brown stuff. Of course after giving it a go this morning on the main union, it broke free... only to find that what came free was the tanks main threaded fitting ripping right away from the tank crap!

With the fuel sock still attached I tried to wrench it free in the vise with a mallet but no go, so I am letting it sit in some liquid wrench.

At this point if I cannot get the threaded ring free of the sock, I'll probably have to get another tank from a wrecker, and then have that tank treated... ugh! Or maybe the shop can do some welding and I just don't use the sock filter

This is why you aren't supposed to keep a car for 27 frickin' years I guess, what was I thinking!

In any case, at least the messy stinky part is done with! GV

[GregoryV]

Success - well, sort of. After hammering the crap out of the filter sleeve and the ring that broke free of the tank- it finally came loose - just as I was wondering if the threads were maybe reverse threads. The good news is I got it apart and didn't even damage the filter sleeve - the bad news is the part that ripped off from the tank.

So now we'll see if the repair place can weld it back on and for how much $ and also see what a tank would cost from Alfa Parts Exchange. GV

[xrad]

BUT WAIT, THERe'S MORE!! I know which filter THIS is!! All the anger and hate just came back!!

And the 'orange brown' stuff is rust particles. It will stick to a magnet..

This is where I had my 'insanity' moment and sold everything!!! Right after replacing the tank bungs at least three times and having the tank in and out at least three times!

You can remove and replace the tank with a little gently prying while leaving the large bung in place (makes it easier later)

But, you have to remove the fuel sender unit first, AND replace it before you completely seat the tank.

NOTE: here is the most imortant parts (after cleaning the tank and replacing it) You must find a fuel proof thread compound. I tried a non-hardening diesel/gas proof TFE paste, teflon tape, hardening fuel fitting sealant, and multipurpose fuel line thread sealant. All from local auto parts places.

NONE WORKED. I still had a leak from the large fitting inner bore. These were all new fitings!

Anyway, be sure to find something that is recommended by Alfa.

[GregoryV]

Ha xrad - you went through HELL on that car, let's not mention the engine either! That's why I've put off doing this project for a while! 3 times in and out would have had me taking a match to the car.

I wonder if your problem was the threads at the sock or a leak from corrosion, mine certainly gave away easy.

in any case, I was thinking that maybe the best way to go would be to have a fitting welded in place and go with Earl's fittings (you now the red and blue anodized race stuff).

Do I really need the sock filter anyway, I guess it keeps rocks out huh?? What do you guys think?

GV

[xrad]

Excellent idea. Replace all alfa stuff in this area!

[GregoryV]

Took the tank out to the repair shop this morning. Amazing how much rust was shaking around inside, definitely enough to clog the filter a good number of times! The guy said it didn't look too bad, so they're gonna give it some sort of acid bath, then weld the bottom fitting back on, pressure test it, paint the outside and put a coating on the inside.

Not that I ever gave it a lot of thought but they said that when a tank rusts from the outside it's the bottom that rusts, when it rusts from the inside it's the inside top that rusts as the bottom is in fuel and does not.

I'd like to have them just weld a 5/16" exit tube out the bottom for the main line and just do away with the Alfa fittings, but because of how little vertical room there is to lift the tank out of the car, I don't think I'd be able to get it back in... So, I'll attempt to use the original hardware and hopefully not regret it.

I noticed the in-tank filter has a rubber o-ring around it at the base and the brass washer around that, I found a replacement o-ring at the hardware store and hopefully that will keep things sealed.

Should get the tank back next week, then it's on to some new torsion bars me thinks.

GV

[Mats]

is the o-ring material fuel-proof?

[xrad]

Forget all the alfa tank fittings/bungs. Have shop put in a whole new bung put in place (forget the intank filter) that will work with standard fuel fittings.

make sure it is low profile fitting(bung) ,so that you can get the tank back in without body work...

[GregoryV]

Okay – Thanks for the sage advise guys The Alfa stuff is out, decided I do not want to even chance that the old fittings will leak and have to deal with dripping gas and pulling the tank a second time — not to mention if the tank then needed a different setup welded on...

Talked to the shop today, their going to weld in a 3/8" threaded bung for the main line, then I'll go from that to 1/2" or a 5/16" nipple fitting sort of like the pictures below. Summit Racing seems to have a selection. Supposed to get the tank back by the end of the week. GV

[xrad]

Summit racing. One of their shops is about 30 min north of my location. I love going to that place....Super fast shipping , too.

[GregoryV]

The shop did a great job on cleaning, welding and coating the tank. I was still thinking of using the old in-tank filter and Alfa fittings, but went with the after-market fittings instead. Ordered a 3/8" NPT bung and a 3/8" thread to 1/2" nipple Earl's fuel line elbow for the job.

Am taking the bung over to the shop Monday so they can weld it on the tank, then I'll paint the tank, get some new fuel line and a fuel sender unit and get on with it. From Summit I also got a tube of this thread seal that is supposed to be good to high pressures and gas proof - I'm feeling this will be a good setup once done. The Summit order showed up in one day using regular shipping! GV

[GregoryV]

Alright! Got the tank back with the 3/8" bung welded in - they did a nice job. I put on a prime coat and then gloss black. See picts. the tank has never looked so good... too bad no one will ever see it!

Kind of a bummer to spend money on something that doesn't make the Alfa any faster, or handle better or look better - but then again it will run better without the tank filter and main filter plugging up!

Just ordered from Greg G. his fuel line kits for the back rear and the top vapor lines. At first was calculating out what I was going to need... it would have run less $ then Greg's kits to just order the lines for what I needed, but after putting Greg's headlight kit and vacuum hose set on the car I really appreciated how well thought out they were. Plus, I know I'll have everything to do the job... not to mention the 180 degree fuel line bends at the filter and pump.

Still a little bummed to be rid of the in-tank filter, but I think this will be a good set up. GV