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Murray,

How do you manuever the top cover arround the 4 studs that the nuts attach the top cover to the firewall? Is there any lowering of the bootom part of the box(hope not as that could break the heater valve). Terry

Terry no doubt you have to allow the box to drop a bit to get around these bolts.What I did was put a piece of foam between the tunnel and the bottom of the box to minimize the movement.The heater valve usually breaks on the pipe that runs to the flange that bolts to the heater line so try to make sure that the force from the downwards movement of the assembly is primarily put on the heater hose that goes from the valve through the firewall

Murray, Thanks!!!

I think I will hold off a couple of weeks so I can start that on a Sat. We have a 3 day weekend coming soon. I definitely want to insulate the box and check or replace the bushing/bearing in the fan motor. By the way is it a solid bushing? From the above conversations it appears not to be a ball bearing setup. I did replace the foam insulation between the top of the box and the firewall. It was really bad and crumbly. I am thniking of using Automotive sound/heat insulation in the box. The stupp that has a shiny surface on one side. Do you see any issues for that matierial?

Terry

Terry yes they are solid bushings, probably made out of brass.To block the space between the AC/heater core and the box your idea should work fine.I used pieces of pipe wrap,the split tubular grey foam that they sell at building stores to insulate hot water pipes.I just cut it to length and jammed it down in there.