We have installed new clutch assembly, when placing the car in reverse it makes a terrible grinding sound. It did not do that with an old clutch. I took the gtv6 for a ride, 1,2,3 gears go in as with an old clutch, maybe even better. I get some grinding (not often) when shifting from neutral into 1 (never when going from 2 to 1) but I was experiencing this problem with an old clutch. The reverse is a real problem now, is there anything that I can do to fix it ... Any ideas ?
I really appriciate your help
Thank you
Would seem that you do not have sufficient clutch fork travel to make a full disengement of the driven plate. This may be due to an improper bleed of the clutch hydraulics or you need to reset the fork fulcrum post to allow more pressure on the pressure plate splines.
Your problem is basically that the clutch is not adequately releasing the pressure on the driven plate and therefore the gears cannot mesh-especially reverse.
Hope that is clear enough..
Your problem is basically that the clutch is not adequately releasing the pressure on the driven plate and therefore the gears cannot mesh-especially reverse.
Hope that is clear enough..
Transaxle Alfas Haul More Arse
All that work is being done by my friend who is a mechanic. He told me that he followed the instructions on how to do it properly. Maybe I can get him online to describe it. One thing he asked me though how do you adjust "pivot point" ? I think he was refering to this statement " reset the fork fulcrum post to allow more pressure on the pressure plate splines"
The fork fulcrum is a bolt with a ball at the end of it which allows the fork to swivel on it. Moving the bolt further in or out of its base mount will bring the fork further away or closer to the diaphragm splines.
In your case, you will need to unwind this "bolt" a little at -a - time and re-lock it with its lock nut. You will need a bit of trial and error to settle on the correct amount based on the type of pressure plate you have.
It may even require replacement with a longer version if it is not going to leave sufficient thread to lock into its home base.
In your case, you will need to unwind this "bolt" a little at -a - time and re-lock it with its lock nut. You will need a bit of trial and error to settle on the correct amount based on the type of pressure plate you have.
It may even require replacement with a longer version if it is not going to leave sufficient thread to lock into its home base.
Transaxle Alfas Haul More Arse
OK here is a version on the theme.
If there is no locknut, then you have the original post unmodified. There is however a hex nut head to the post for moving it within the thread.
If the post requires enough withdrawal to allow a narrow locknut to be fitted behind it, well and good.
If not, simply move the bolt further out, mark this length and refitted it with some chemical thread locker.
See photos for post location.
If your mechanic still cannot do this, get another mechanic.
If there is no locknut, then you have the original post unmodified. There is however a hex nut head to the post for moving it within the thread.
If the post requires enough withdrawal to allow a narrow locknut to be fitted behind it, well and good.
If not, simply move the bolt further out, mark this length and refitted it with some chemical thread locker.
See photos for post location.
If your mechanic still cannot do this, get another mechanic.
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- Clutch Fulcrum Post 2.jpg (67.37 KiB) Viewed 6739 times
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- Clutch Fulcrum Post 1.jpg (67.28 KiB) Viewed 6742 times
Transaxle Alfas Haul More Arse
Thank you this definately, helped. I picked the car up last night, it run very well, the gears 1,2,3,4,5, r were smooth. The clutch pedal was a bit higher away from the floor than I am used too. Interesting enough the grinding that I was experiencing with old clutch from 1 to 2, did not happen either. The reverse worked fine.
Today I noticed, that sometimes the rear does not engage as easly but it is very random, sometimes it is perfect sometimes not. It helps if I place it in the 5 gear first. I also noticed sounds when going into 1st, also does not happen all the time. I am puzzled
Today I noticed, that sometimes the rear does not engage as easly but it is very random, sometimes it is perfect sometimes not. It helps if I place it in the 5 gear first. I also noticed sounds when going into 1st, also does not happen all the time. I am puzzled
Today I drove my car again, did not grind at all. Well I do always place the stick in the second before shifting to first and fifth before shifting to reverse, but there is something else that bothers me, and it is hard to explain. When I shift to the second gear and accelerate, there is a fraction of a second when the clutch is pressed maybe 20% into, when I hear a squeaking sound, the sound disappears almost immediately when the clutch is pressed further. Is this normal with a new clutch ?
Re: New Clutch Assembly Install -- Reverse Grinding
I'm about to assemble my TS transaxle.
What's the best grease to use on the spherical pin (fork fulcrum) and clutch cylinder pin?
What's the best grease to use on the spherical pin (fork fulcrum) and clutch cylinder pin?