???? On the standard item??? Jim K.
PS: We'll be with Ron on May 14+15. Can you make it? How about you Maurizio?
yesMicke wrote:Tecto,
what you say makes sence.
My suggestion is:
1) Keep original flywheel and lighent the hell out of it (good, cheap and DIY satisfaction). You get this down to about 3.0 kg!
2) Make new flywheel but this only when you swap to better clutch as well. No need for this for street driving.
but
:1)
Agree with you....lightening a oem flywheel is less(so far like 30-40$ in cash money to the local machine shop) expensive than build a new one alloy or not...
but in my case.....the old oem one(already serious lightened-1800grams) had some serious 'damage'.
the friction aera suffer a lot
(a big lot 
) form several hard 'drag' starts.there is more than 1 mm, because the oem single disc had failure problably due to these several conditions.
2)
about a better clutch, i testing the combo with a springed disc and oem F&S sachs single plate mechanism.
the disc cost in france 180€ in regard of the 450€ for double plate mechanism of ap racing(only mechanism, must had +2*120€ for plates)
my car is far to be a dragster, thinking about 310nm and 290hp, if this combo works...i'll keep...
if it's fail (probably not).....i'll take the way for a 140mm 2 plates or a 115mm 3 plates. obviously......with the small and ligtweigth new clutchwheel.
to keep all this alive.......i stopped for a long time hard drag starts...
this is not the best way to enjoy the car, in all cases its not mine way now.
2 stroke addict
JimGreek wrote:Micke, are you sure its safe to go from 10+ kg down to 3kg
Jim K.
PS: We'll be with Ron on May 14+15. Can you make it? How about you Maurizio?
10 kg
you are speaking about a front flywheel the rear clutch wheel(dont remenber exactly) as is weigth near to 5kg in the oem single plate case.
if you speak about the front flywheel,...yes its safe.....but not from the iron one.
because to go down to 3kg...i'll imagine how its thinner like a paper....if its holed...forgot.... thinner+holes= failures. in iron.
if the flywheel is in steel you can make it very thinner looks there is no problem....and with some holes can go to.
in alloy.....dont need to be holed, if its already thin and well minded it can go down to 2.5kg.
but.....near to 3kg....the inertia is very low...not the problem of the idle rpm but, the engines dies for nothing when its near to the idle.
like a 2 stroke race engine; motocross or any else.
2 stroke addict
My original rear flywheel was 7.5 kg.
For some reason there's a big spread in OE flywheel weight and I know some (newer) ones "only" weigh 5 kg.
As for safe: YES! Of course you need to think how to do it.
BTW, my front FW was 10 kg but I have some from 75's and they are again lighter with 8 kg.
My FW didn't break yet with 3.9 kg.
For some reason there's a big spread in OE flywheel weight and I know some (newer) ones "only" weigh 5 kg.
As for safe: YES! Of course you need to think how to do it.
BTW, my front FW was 10 kg but I have some from 75's and they are again lighter with 8 kg.
My FW didn't break yet with 3.9 kg.
)
Daily donky.. ==> BMW 325d 
==> definitely BANNED!Micke wrote:My original rear flywheel was 7.5 kg.
For some reason there's a big spread in OE flywheel weight and I know some (newer) ones "only" weigh 5 kg.
As for safe: YES! Of course you need to think how to do it.
BTW, my front FW was 10 kg but I have some from 75's and they are again lighter with 8 kg.
My FW didn't break yet with 3.9 kg.
yes.... big spreading weights, never the same.
2 stroke addict
Re: alloy clutchwheel, what material for friction plate ???
Hi guys.
long time no speak about this stuff
heres a old pic of the thing is for single 215mm milano/ gtv6 mecanisms and others:
And a couple of questions to people that already seen and touch likewise flywheels and fixing solutions because:
i experienced 1 bolt loosening issue.
My fitting is M6 hex head countersunk screw torque class 12.9 wrenched and loctited into the treated (20-25mmlength) alloy flywheel, surface finish for both flywheel and friction plate on both contact surface are 0.8µm
i guess loctite matter just a few minutes until it melts under temperature.
How did the friction plate should tigthened to the flywheel ?
I'm thinking of drillin treads into flywheel in order to usin screw and narrow/thin conic washers (belleville...) and selflocking nut (like mht(10times expensive) or tristop)
Should i have to keep class 12, instead of a bit more elastic class 8 ? (also sounds 16 screw are too much, 12 seems to be enough)
what are you all thinkin about this ?
i try to get some pictures around the web but its pretty hard to find back side photos
my flywheel.
heres a MHT nut
tristoplike stopnut
long time no speak about this stuff
heres a old pic of the thing is for single 215mm milano/ gtv6 mecanisms and others:
And a couple of questions to people that already seen and touch likewise flywheels and fixing solutions because:
i experienced 1 bolt loosening issue.
My fitting is M6 hex head countersunk screw torque class 12.9 wrenched and loctited into the treated (20-25mmlength) alloy flywheel, surface finish for both flywheel and friction plate on both contact surface are 0.8µm
i guess loctite matter just a few minutes until it melts under temperature.
How did the friction plate should tigthened to the flywheel ?
I'm thinking of drillin treads into flywheel in order to usin screw and narrow/thin conic washers (belleville...) and selflocking nut (like mht(10times expensive) or tristop)
Should i have to keep class 12, instead of a bit more elastic class 8 ? (also sounds 16 screw are too much, 12 seems to be enough)
what are you all thinkin about this ?
i try to get some pictures around the web but its pretty hard to find back side photos
my flywheel.
heres a MHT nut
tristoplike stopnut
2 stroke addict