drive shaft
ok guys well my project will require me takeing about 18 inches from the drive shaft sooo i had to ask will i still need the silly rubber guido's? or can i goto a true u-joint or is there another better option?...engine is a 2.5 v6 and a asumed platinum transaxle
well ive got the entire stock setup from the doner milano......so the ends are not an issue are they?....ive never had a unit out on the floor to look at it
i mean is the engine and trans safe useing traditional u-joints or are the "flex" joints a needed thing?
thinking a slide shaft with 2 traditional u-joints ...lose the center BB as well if i can
i mean is the engine and trans safe useing traditional u-joints or are the "flex" joints a needed thing?
thinking a slide shaft with 2 traditional u-joints ...lose the center BB as well if i can
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scott.venables
- Gold
- Posts: 117
- Joined: Wed Nov 01, 2006 11:00 pm
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
There are some issues as I see it:
1: Center bearing support and bottom of shifter.
2: Front propshaft length
3: Joint angles
1.
The center bearing and shifter is in a swaged part of the propshaft and cannot easily be relocated without major modification to body/interior/propshaft which leads to the next problem.
2
The front part of the propshaft will be super short if you take out 18" from it (if it's even possible). This will create the issue no3.
3.
Joint angles will be extreme if you have a short propshaft and get the engine misaligned to the center bearing. For instance, you keep the std engine mounts and put load on the engine, it twists slightly and all of a sudden the small offset will create a huge angle in the first and second joint.
A single shaft will be possible if you make it in the correct material and diameter, there is a problem with long shafts if you spin them quickly, if you have even a tiny bit of imbalance in them they can suddenly bend and snap due to the load. Think piano wire in an electric drill, it will happily rattle on the table up to a certain speed and then suddenly break out in wild whipping. That's a good way to lose a leg.
But even if you design the single shaft correctly you still need to move the shifter out of the way. A single composite tube with a plunging CV up front and a fixed one in the rear would be my "porn-prop-choise" btw.
Hook/U/cardan joints can be used no problems, you need to watch the angles carefully though, nominally they should be maybe 0.4-0.8 degrees and no more then 1.6 degrees during full load (this means moving mounts for the engine and gearbox around to make sure they are aligned). These values are not the typical values you will hear from the V8/live axle guys but they are typically not too worried about anything else then grip.
If you want a vibration free and durable propshaft you need to watch the angles. Hook joints should be used in pairs and welded to the shaft at the same angle (unless you really know what you are doing) or there will be a speed differential/vibration in the shaft which will create all kind of NVH problems and possibly gear rattle/durability issues with the GB if you have an unsprung clutch plate.
Hook joints are heavy though.
1: Center bearing support and bottom of shifter.
2: Front propshaft length
3: Joint angles
1.
The center bearing and shifter is in a swaged part of the propshaft and cannot easily be relocated without major modification to body/interior/propshaft which leads to the next problem.
2
The front part of the propshaft will be super short if you take out 18" from it (if it's even possible). This will create the issue no3.
3.
Joint angles will be extreme if you have a short propshaft and get the engine misaligned to the center bearing. For instance, you keep the std engine mounts and put load on the engine, it twists slightly and all of a sudden the small offset will create a huge angle in the first and second joint.
A single shaft will be possible if you make it in the correct material and diameter, there is a problem with long shafts if you spin them quickly, if you have even a tiny bit of imbalance in them they can suddenly bend and snap due to the load. Think piano wire in an electric drill, it will happily rattle on the table up to a certain speed and then suddenly break out in wild whipping. That's a good way to lose a leg.
But even if you design the single shaft correctly you still need to move the shifter out of the way. A single composite tube with a plunging CV up front and a fixed one in the rear would be my "porn-prop-choise" btw.
Hook/U/cardan joints can be used no problems, you need to watch the angles carefully though, nominally they should be maybe 0.4-0.8 degrees and no more then 1.6 degrees during full load (this means moving mounts for the engine and gearbox around to make sure they are aligned). These values are not the typical values you will hear from the V8/live axle guys but they are typically not too worried about anything else then grip.
If you want a vibration free and durable propshaft you need to watch the angles. Hook joints should be used in pairs and welded to the shaft at the same angle (unless you really know what you are doing) or there will be a speed differential/vibration in the shaft which will create all kind of NVH problems and possibly gear rattle/durability issues with the GB if you have an unsprung clutch plate.
Hook joints are heavy though.
Mats Strandberg
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
check this out:
http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/tec ... to_02.html
looks like the parts are out there, just a matter of putting it all together....
http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/tec ... to_02.html
looks like the parts are out there, just a matter of putting it all together....
well the shifter wont be a problem 99% positive my shifter will be a cable setup running inside of the car and then poping out at the arms on the trans
nice bit o info for me to mow over...just would like to be as well informed as posible befor i goto a driveline specialty shop and go "i want-----" done
nice bit o info for me to mow over...just would like to be as well informed as posible befor i goto a driveline specialty shop and go "i want-----" done