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tectoteam
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alloy clutch flywheel, technical issues... ???

Post by tectoteam »

hello.

i'm planning on a alloy clutch wheel.

what kind of steel i had to use for the friction plate ?
suppose a standart steel used in the most common workshop should work as fine... what are you thinking about this ?

(i dont forgot to make the roughness at 0.4 to 0.5 um)

(also planning on a alloy flywheel... :twisted: 2.05 kgrs... !20% of the oem cast iron one)
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Post by tectoteam »

:cry:

impossiblyium ???
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Post by Dennis »

Why don't you use your original flywheel and mill that down to the desired thickness? For a frictionplate that is, not as a lightened flywheel.
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Post by tectoteam »

Dennis wrote:Why don't you use your original flywheel and mill that down to the desired thickness? For a frictionplate that is, not as a lightened flywheel.
good idea but...
it's already done.
the flywheel weigth is reduced than 1kg.

and the alloy one + the steel friction plate can give you a benfit of 2.5 kg. near to be the half of the oem one.

and...i want to build a flywheel, i have a old lathe..so...want to do the things myself. :o
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Post by Maurizio »

If I would have is the guess then the original friction plate would be simple steel (as in Fe360, European norm). But I'm not 100% sure.
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Flywheel

Post by MD »

tectoteam

I definitely like the way you are thinking. It sounds good in principle. I just want to add what I think is clarification from Dennis which I feel maybe you did not interpret correctly.

From my understanding, what Dennis is saying is to use the original material from the factory flywheel and insert it as a liner in your alloy one. This would mean machining a plate out of the original steel flywheel.

What you would have then is the light weight which is your objective with a steel surface of the original specification.

Brilliant. Go for it I say.

Tip:If you go with this, make sure the unit is carefully balanced including the clutch otherwise you could have some nasty vibration problems, but I am certain you would know this anyhow...
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Post by Dennis »

exactly MD! That's what I meant.......
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Post by tectoteam »

yeah...
i understand..... :oops:

but in fact, i get my info....from ap racing uk.
i send an email about theses clutch disk sinter metal and ask for the fricitons plates.

we can use 'shitty' cast iron ,

or simply,...steel. with theses minimum specs:
steel with hardness minimum 200 brinell, carbon inside value between 0.35 to 0.45 %..
sounds like a common 1050 steel.
and after roughness from 0.5 to 0.75 micrometers.

well...looking with the neighbour machine shop...in progress
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Post by Micke »

We'll make new clutch flywheels as well.

Complete thing of 4140 CroMo (DIN 42CrMo4).
This for the Helix twin plate 7.25" clutch.
Weight will be about 1810 g so IMHO making it complicated with alloy and steel surface doesn't pay off.
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Post by Mats »

KISS..

Keep
It
Simple,
Stupid

;)

Micke, any pics? Sounds like a beauty.
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Post by Micke »

I surfed today to check the inertia of the clutch assy. I subled on good information about the flywheel as well:

"
Flywheel

A purpose machined flywheel is required.

The friction face should be a good quality close grained Cast Iron or Steel (0.35 / 0.45% Carbon, Hardness 200 Hb minimum), with a surface finish of 0.75µm RA (30 CLA) maximum.

Run out when assembled to the crankshaft must not exceed 0.08mm (0.003") maximum at 77mm (3.03") radius. Fixing holes and location spigot to be machined as shown on the appropriate flywheel mounting drawings.

Flywheel Mounting details for Ø115mm to Ø184mm,
and for Ø200mm to Ø215mm clutches.
"

http://www.apracing.com/car/race/flywheel.htm
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Post by tectoteam »

Micke wrote:I surfed today to check the inertia of the clutch assy. I subled on good information about the flywheel as well:
got yur info.

the oem single plate clutch flywheel as an inertia of 43E6 (million) gramms per millimeter square.
and a well constructed one in alloy can sounds like 17E6 gramms/mm²
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Post by Maurizio »

Micke wrote:We'll make new clutch flywheels as well.

Complete thing of 4140 CroMo (DIN 42CrMo4).
This for the Helix twin plate 7.25" clutch.
Weight will be about 1810 g so IMHO making it complicated with alloy and steel surface doesn't pay off.
J = M * r^2 , so Micke is right.
If you're going through the trouble of machining a new flywheel make it smaller in diameter. There is the most to win.



This can still be aluminium with a steel insert for friction surface.... :wink:
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Post by tectoteam »

Micke wrote:We'll make new clutch flywheels as well.

Complete thing of 4140 CroMo (DIN 42CrMo4).
This for the Helix twin plate 7.25" clutch.
Weight will be about 1810 g so IMHO making it complicated with alloy and steel surface doesn't pay off.
yes, i agree with you... :o
making more parts, had to lock the screw, and glue the plate....
but, for the 215mm(8.45") oem single plate i tried some steel(very good steel) flywheels and it looks like impossible to go under 3200grams. :?
under this weigth there is as much critics areas if you use a 2017 alloy.
dont forgot that in regard of the weigth the ratio is not the same in regard of the strenghness. better for alloy :wink: .

so at the same 'strengthness' a alloy flywheel with a steel plate is near to 2600grams and a steel flywheel is near to 3200 gramms.

good steels flywheel cost them a couple of $ but far to the so expensive$$$$ than the alloy one with steel friction plate and bolts and :( ....i agree 2

from ap racing them sintered dampened clutch disc 5354-21 (for single plate milano..ect...) can hold up to 390 nm before failure...
so its looks like a good way to have a good clutch not too much expensive that can hold some serious powers... 8)


IMHO, built a well flywheel (alloy or steel no matter) to fit a ap racing(or other) double or triple (or more) plates clutch as no sense :? .
because here, we are speaking about 400-450 or more ....800 NM from a top tuned turbo 4 cylinder or a turbo v6:
AND here...clutch or not....the problem was not here....but the gearbox will explode sooner... :x


about the double plate from gtv6....in france (in europe too) because of numberous gtv6 runnings into the streets around the 80' and 90' it appears that the double plate(gtv6 oem) is.....far to be a good choice, looks like not easy to drive(not my problem) but!, looks like there is so many customers that gets clutch problems sooner, one of the discs became out of use so faster the than the second, and this lead to the alfa romeo after sales service to change the clutch for a single plate for very unhappy customers



weights losses and wins..... :roll:
get less weigth(and inertia) in an expensive double plate ap racing, and keep the front iron flywheel have no sense...
IMHO do all or nothing......street or racing....no more no less.
even..do a little is allowed (but a little small).

had alloy flywheels...carbon axle and transversal shafts ligthened prockets, billet cranckshaft, titanium rods..ect.........why not...
but dont drive in leathers seats and electrics mirrors.
sometimes i thinking in a complete set titanium bolts, nuts, washers... carbon seats,...aluminium roof, carbon fiber body, full hand made new steel/alloy front and rear suspensions...and more :shock: ...(forgot the amout of $$)

but IMHO, think, design, and built parts is so play. forgot the wins and losses, just satisfaction of the home made.
i dont care about carbon parts and awesome very interesting parts all ready.
want to designe all myself....and obviously explode somethings myself :oops: ....but this comes less and less during the years... :wink:
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Post by Micke »

Tecto,

what you say makes sence.

My suggestion is:

1) Keep original flywheel and lighent the hell out of it (good, cheap and DIY satisfaction). You get this down to about 3.0 kg!

2) Make new flywheel but this only when you swap to better clutch as well. No need for this for street driving.
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