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any BMW numbers , Kevin?

Any BMW #'s Kevin?


If anyone needs a clutch alignment tool for Milano style clutch:

http://www.clutchtools.com/

Part arrived today , will let you know tomorrow when I pick it up. I can give you pic of a broken one with part numbers of what NOT to buy .

The part number is GAB01-009 . Made in Germany. I think there would be no problems to use on standrd prop on road car as the box mounts and rear coupling will take up the extra 5mm. My box mounts are solid(bolted) on race car so cut prop. Check pics

NICE, thanks Kevin!

So this os for E31 (318) felx disc. ~50$?

My concerns Without driveshaft mods:

1) Stressing both front and rear guibos, trans mounts, engine mounts (maybe 5mm is not too much to absorb, maybe it is)

2) other concern is that the center drive shaft guide bearing will be pushed back 5mm as well, and not seated completely

3) finding six new bolts for center coupling

But I love the price! Maybe there is a way for me to remove ~5mm of rubber and bushing length without damaging the coupler?? Belt sander?

Cheers, x

kevin wrote:I think there would be no problems to use on standrd prop on road car as the box mounts and rear coupling will take up the extra 5mm.

Not sure if I understand correctly, but forcing the transaxle back 5 mm with the driveshaft (putting pressure on it), or distort the rear coupling by 5 mm does not sound like a good idea IMO. If the front part of the driveshaft just slides 5 mm further forward on the splines and settles naturally (without "unnatural" forces), then it would probably work. How much are you really saving by doing this? $75 every what? 3-5 years? or, is it NLA (been a while since I had to replace one)?
Jes

Jes,

Is it possible to do a 1 piece aluminium driveshaft from your shop which did the CF stuff?

There is no change to front of prop or middle bearing as the prop only gets longer on the back section. Force is exerted directly onto gearbox coupling. For road use i dont think its an issue.
I did try to grind or cut one which proved to be impossible as there is a hidden steel tube undre the surface which in lathe creates havoc. I then tried to machine one - still no joy . see pics

Sorry they came out so big but the top one is not really blurred its just that the rubber jumps all over the show thus i tried machining it next. It did actually come out the lathe and hit the far corner of the workshop at good pace. It could have made an interesting print on my forehead

Bolts are same size as shown with one bolt in .

Item 1
The rear support mount for the transaxles has elongated mounting holes so that it can moved forward or backwards. If the existing elongation is not sufficient it could be enlarged. As for the front mounts, they should stay where they are and be fitted with a 5mm packer plate.

Doing this may affect the position of your gearshift which then would need some work to fix that.There is no need to reduce the width of the coupling at all.

Item 2
You can use a one piece steel shaft of larger diameter but you either have to move the gearshift out of of the tunnel or away from the propshaft by a bulge in the tunnel or introduce a waist in the shaft around the shifter base. The last option may introduce alignment issues during welding and be a source of whipping. A one piece tube would be the safest solution but you need to deal with the shifter problems which are not insurmountable especially for a race car.
No experience with aluminium shafts.

sheesh, Kevin! I give you an 'A" for effort!

Ar4me: The BMW part costs as low as ~25$ (made in china variety) I can't find the SGF type at this price (~40-80$ depending on source)

Alfa version 200$. Your are right, though...for a once in a while part, I should pay the extra...I have a feeling the next time I do one of these, there will be no Alfa versions left. But, BMW uses this same size in like 15 different models over 15 years, so there will be plenty of BMW version for a while

I still think a belt sander could do the trick and take a few mm off each side.....

I just bought one for 22.50$ ...

Zamani wrote:Jes,

Is it possible to do a 1 piece aluminium driveshaft from your shop which did the CF stuff?

They can probably do it but it would theoretically shred itself quite quickly. Alu is very soft compard to CF low excitation frequency.

Here is the OE part number and other info:

OE # is 26111204294 but some BMW sites substitue below #.

Part# 26111225624 Link: http://www.bimmerspecialist.com/usa/par ... 6111225624

Flex Discfor Driveshaft

Description: Flex Disc
for Driveshaft


Comments:

Manufacturer: O.E.M.

Part#: 26111225624
List Price: $97.80


Your Price: $43.99

Zamani wrote:Jes,

Is it possible to do a 1 piece aluminium driveshaft from your shop which did the CF stuff?

They are specialized in composite materials and do carbon fiber driveshafts for all kinds of applications - not just cars. I don't believe they do metal shafts. Talk to Richard. He can explain to you what will and what won't work - material, weight, length, dimensions, etc. Keep in mind that a single piece uniform diameter shaft normally requires shift linkage out of tunnel.
Jes