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Charlie Hood
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Replace clutch master

Post by Charlie Hood »

'84 GtV-6: I need to replace the clutch master and looked under the dash. Ouch! I am wondering about disconecting the brake peddle also and pulling the housing. I can then work on it under the hood? Or...because the hole on the fire wall is smaller then housing, I could drill holes above the bolts. This would give me a straight shot.
I search the old and new forums and did find much. If missed something point me in the right direction.
Thanks and a tip of the hat from ole charlie
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PietereQ
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Re: Replace clutch master

Post by PietereQ »

Its a PITA type of job to do, but no need to drill anything. Remove the pin from the bolt that fixes the MC to the clutch pedal. Undo the bolt. Now press the MC rod all way in and yank it in either side so you can remove the spring and spring pan. Once these are removed undo the two hex bolts that attach the MC to the pedal box. There, you're done.
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Charlie Hood
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Re: Replace clutch master

Post by Charlie Hood »

After my post I found some pictures on here from x-rad. The hole in the firewall looks be about the same size as the outline of the housing. Mine seems barely large enough to clear the shafts from the cylinders. I can barely see one of the bolts. Taking the boot of will help immensely. But I could barely get my hand in enough enough to touch anything. Reassemble?. I need to look again, but I am leaning towards x-rads taking the whole houseing.
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Charlie Hood
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Re: Replace clutch master

Post by Charlie Hood »

After my post I found some pictures on here from x-rad. The hole in the firewall looks be about the same size as the outline of the housing. Mine seems barely large enough to clear the shafts from the cylinders. I can barely see one of the bolts. Taking the boot of will help immensely. But I could barely get my hand in enough. Replace? I need to look again, but I am leaning towards x-rads taking the whole housing.
kevin
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Re: Replace clutch master

Post by kevin »

It's a real kuk job to do but it takes 30 mins to get out . I normally use a very long extension with alankey socket . Sometimes I even loosen steering wheel just to move it up a bit .then you lie on your back with a cushion on the sill of the car and loosen the two bolts inside the car . You definitely need second person when tightening it as you end up pushing the cylinder out into the engine bay . Make sure alenkey goes in properly , don't want to strip those .
festy
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Re: Replace clutch master

Post by festy »

I made up a tool just for this job - it's an allen key with the bend cut off, welded to a roughly 2 foot length of 6mm bar, with a nut on the other end.
It just slips down between the dash and side of the steering column, and using a socket on the nut, both cap screws can be removed in a minute or two without turning yourself inside out in the footwell.
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MD
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Re: Replace clutch master

Post by MD »

SOMEBODY BUY THAT MAN A BEER !!!!!

Thanks for sharing.
Transaxle Alfas Haul More Arse
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Mats
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Re: Replace clutch master

Post by Mats »

MD wrote:SOMEBODY BUY THAT MAN A BEER !!!!!

Thanks for sharing.
I second that!
Mats Strandberg
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-onemanracing.com-
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GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
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Charlie Hood
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Re: Replace clutch master

Post by Charlie Hood »

Took another look at it tonight. Now I am off to the store for allen wrench to cut off and a section of rod to weld on.
Buy that man a drink :!:
Thanks everyone for your help.
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Charlie Hood
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Re: Replace clutch master

Post by Charlie Hood »

U.S. Alfa GTV-6 Clutch Master Cylinder replacement:
Tools: 6mm allen wrench, ball end preferred. I was able to get a 3/8 drive socket with about a 7” allen end, from Harbor Freight. Plus a 12” wobble extension, and ratchet. A needle nose pliers is handy for pulling the cotter pin from the yoke at the pedal arm. Then a 12mm fitting wrench for the line.
1) I started with removal of the fuse box. The left side comes up and towards you. Pull it down and slide to the left to disengage the right pivot point. Next I tied it to the high/low beam lever.
2) With the fuse box our of the way life became much easier under the dash. So I removed the cotter pin and pin from the yoke. Next the return spring. The washer/cup behind the yoke has a slit so it is a matter of holding the spring back and sliding it out. (A few words not fit for children here.) The yoke on the one I removed was not adjustable and would not come off.
3) The bolts were easy enough to remove at this point.
4) I pulled the bolts prior to the hydraulic line so I could pull the unit towards the front of the car. This allowed easier access to the fitting for removal.
5) The installation is basically the opposite.
6) The replacement had an adjustable yoke, and it might have been easier to remove and put the spring on. I needed to adjust the yoke to make the clutch pedal even with the brake pedal.
7) One point is to remember, is to have bleed valve on the slave cylinder in the up position during the bleeding.
COMMENTS, CRITICISMS, IMPROVEMENTS WELCOME!
kevin
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Re: Replace clutch master

Post by kevin »

Hey that sounds perfect . Now the bleeding can become tricky if the clutch fork falls out . This will only happen if you got no assistance and have to manually bleed the clutch by pushing in the slave with your hand underneath . Looks like you're and expert at tins now .
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