ALFAGTV6.COM

Yeah , MD came up with idea and works brilliantly . He uses four webs on his clutch with straight braces . In the GTV there is no space to put the other two braces so I used only two with slight bend for clearance issues . This web takes a huge amount of the force out the weak point in the clutch housing and transfers into the mounting bolts . The top of housing is machined round so the ring can fit on . The ring is heated up red hot and fitted on . Make sure your new bearings are in already . Also when you do machining of top of housing leave old bearing in as housing can distort fractionally from heat . The lugs on side are doweled in . Be very carefull when welding in webs not to induce heat into new bearings so you can also weld just the top lugs to the ring initially . I made about Five of these and you learnt fast what not to do if you're not a machinist and used to seen heat transfer . Good news all five housings are still going strong in race cars with over 300hp on wheels .

Can't help but think a gusset plate across those two braces would make a huge improvement....

I agree.

Also see my original version.

Whilst I now use a four brace version, I have placed these photos for some additional info that renders the original design stronger.

I do agree with all of you but as mentioned with four braces it did not clear and the two straight braces make it very difficult to remove clutch housing when dropping the clutch out .
MD you also had another really good set up with webs in curved braces that solved thes issues . Do note the heavy duty clutch housing on previous page requires some bending of bodywork around the tunnel to get it to fit properly .
Bending the body work is actually the proper way to go then no matter which clutch set up you use you will know its structurally efficient . I see the alfetta has more room than the GTV .

Agreed Kevin. Taking the 10lb "doctor" to the tunnel side for more room solves issues if things are too tight. However with the bracing illustrated below, it should not be necessary. This one is fitted to my road GTV6 without any tunnel mods.

BTW: Hey Zeefa, could you put a copy of this stuff in the Gearbox/Clutch topic set as it appears to have grown in the wrong subject heading. Cheers mate.

Oh and one more thing, don't let JK see this. He'll want a full metallurgy analysis report on the braces before implementation. Bugger him, he's not getting it until he buys me an Oz Burger first and two beers. ..and JK, if you are reading this without permission, I hope a Cypriot beach crab sneaks up your shorts the next time you are having a sunbake on that big Mediterranean sand box.

Nice looking job them braces!
MD, seeing I read your stuff, here's a nice Xmas suggestion for ya: get an enema with a solution of turpentine, Tabasco sauce and black powder (Oz shake'n bake?), Finish off with a snug-fitting cork and wait.... (preferably outside).... First Aussie in space! If you ever land, I hope it'll be on a giant Saguaro cactus in the middle of a rattler convention in the Arizona desert!
Jim K.

Moved posts here

MD, I like that latest version. If I break a clutch housing I am going to copy that.

Greg

Hahhaa. An absolute pants wetter. Gotta hand it to ya JK, I can't top that.

Thanks for the move Mr Zee.

MD wrote:Agreed Kevin. Taking the 10lb "doctor" to the tunnel side for more room solves issues if things are too tight. However with the bracing illustrated below, it should not be necessary. This one is fitted to my road GTV6 without any tunnel mods.

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm!!!!
A braced clutch housing for a warmed road going GTV6.
That has me wondering about applying such efforts to my supercharged 75. Especially if I have cross bolted front TA mounts and (when we get it all sorted) a Kev spec front coupling cage.