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- Verde
- Posts: 1552
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2004 7:06 pm
Barry, that rule of thumb is pretty accurate. I express is this way:
Horsepower after turbo/supercharing= Horsepower before * (14.7/boost in psi+1)
Lets plug that in, say a Verde motor with 150 rwhp has 5 pounds of boost. Ok it's (5/14.7+1) which is 1.34. Multiply 1.34 times 150 rwhp and you get 201 rwhp. Now SuperVerde has about 145 rwhp without the supercharger and 205 rwhp with 5 pounds of boost so you can see that this is pretty close.
This formula only accounts for the increased air pressure. It doesn't account for the increased temperature or the cost to drive the supercharger. On the positive side it doesn't account for the intake pressure pushing down on the piston or the increased effective compression ratio or other factors. Up to 9 psi these factors seem to cancel each other out so the formula works pretty well up to that point. Beyond that the benifits of boost will decrease. It would probably take 18 pounds of boost to double the horsepower.
Horsepower after turbo/supercharing= Horsepower before * (14.7/boost in psi+1)
Lets plug that in, say a Verde motor with 150 rwhp has 5 pounds of boost. Ok it's (5/14.7+1) which is 1.34. Multiply 1.34 times 150 rwhp and you get 201 rwhp. Now SuperVerde has about 145 rwhp without the supercharger and 205 rwhp with 5 pounds of boost so you can see that this is pretty close.
This formula only accounts for the increased air pressure. It doesn't account for the increased temperature or the cost to drive the supercharger. On the positive side it doesn't account for the intake pressure pushing down on the piston or the increased effective compression ratio or other factors. Up to 9 psi these factors seem to cancel each other out so the formula works pretty well up to that point. Beyond that the benifits of boost will decrease. It would probably take 18 pounds of boost to double the horsepower.
Gustav: I see no other alternative in that price range, I just think it's a pity you can't log witout a computer...
bteoh: I haven't looked at it for a while but when I was seriously looking into buying the stuff I read pretty much the whole forum they have at their website and wasn't wery impressed. For instance, they think it's a great idea to mount the intake temp sensor either by cutting a hole in a hose and just cram it in there or just at the front of the car by the radiator somwhere..
Obviously the temp on a boosted car would be off by a mile but they think it's good even for a boosted setup (yes, I asked). And there is more like that, i guess its ok if you're only trying to get a motor to run like if it had poorly adjusted carbs but nah... not for me.
bteoh: I haven't looked at it for a while but when I was seriously looking into buying the stuff I read pretty much the whole forum they have at their website and wasn't wery impressed. For instance, they think it's a great idea to mount the intake temp sensor either by cutting a hole in a hose and just cram it in there or just at the front of the car by the radiator somwhere..
Obviously the temp on a boosted car would be off by a mile but they think it's good even for a boosted setup (yes, I asked). And there is more like that, i guess its ok if you're only trying to get a motor to run like if it had poorly adjusted carbs but nah... not for me.
Mats Strandberg
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
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- Verde
- Posts: 1552
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2004 7:06 pm
Mats, that's really an installation issue and not a flaw with the Gotech design or components. You can certainly drill and tap the plenum to mount the sensor. Or if you are using my intake the metal pipe section can be tapped and a sensor screwed in.
On a forced induction car using a speed/density injection system the air intake temp sensor should be mounted on the pressure side of the system.
On a forced induction car using a speed/density injection system the air intake temp sensor should be mounted on the pressure side of the system.
- Maurizio
- Verde
- Posts: 680
- Joined: Wed Dec 01, 2004 4:49 am
- Location: the Netherlands, 153.1km from the N'ring :-)
Upgrade it with a watt linkage!
But all a waiste of time, a spider is for cruising.............. hmmm with this engine?
Here a lot of 105 guys run the exhaust underneath the backaxle.
to little time, need to get my spider out in the open air
But all a waiste of time, a spider is for cruising.............. hmmm with this engine?
Here a lot of 105 guys run the exhaust underneath the backaxle.
to little time, need to get my spider out in the open air
Banned.. ? Daily donky.. ==> BMW 325d
E36M3 (3.0) Ringtool ==> definitely BANNED!
AR 75 TS Ringtool '90, AR Spider 2000 veloce '79
E36M3 (3.0) Ringtool ==> definitely BANNED!
AR 75 TS Ringtool '90, AR Spider 2000 veloce '79
Z,Did not know the 75 lines are in the car??Racing rules here stipulate the fuel lines in the car....I dont know whats worse,burning to death fast(lines in car)or burning slowly(lines outside)..All I know is we did everything possible to try and make the lines within the Gta`s as safe as possible...
Damn,outed again..my nail polish..
Micke,roll center!! Its a spider ffs!!... Its made for cruising...
Damn,outed again..my nail polish..
Micke,roll center!! Its a spider ffs!!... Its made for cruising...
I think the problem with lines underneath the car is the risk of rupture should you go farming in rocky area and then have sparks ignite the party. What I don't like about the lines inside the 75 is that they are "plastic". We originally did the fuel lines on the 3.7 as hard lines under the car. Later I re-considered and realized race cars usually have hard lines inside the car.
Jes
Jes
87 Milano Verde - daily driver - Juliet
87 Milano 3.0 Motronic - budget race car - Roxanne
87 Milano 3.7 24v - race car
(Repeat or do as I say at your own risk - be critical)
87 Milano 3.0 Motronic - budget race car - Roxanne
87 Milano 3.7 24v - race car
(Repeat or do as I say at your own risk - be critical)
Eh, I know that, sheesh...Greg Gordon wrote:Mats, that's really an installation issue and not a flaw with the Gotech design or components. You can certainly drill and tap the plenum to mount the sensor. Or if you are using my intake the metal pipe section can be tapped and a sensor screwed in.
On a forced induction car using a speed/density injection system the air intake temp sensor should be mounted on the pressure side of the system.
The problem is that even the GoTech dudes told me that they recommended that the sensor was mounter on the bumper, even on boosted cars. The Designers of the system says something like that, then it's a big issue for me as a consumer, tells me they know fcuk all really...
Mats Strandberg
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
mmm, lancia beta coupe inside, gtv6 inside. 75's not sure.
I prefer the fuel lines inside, z how many times do you wear golf shoes with spikes that will penetrate the 2" of carpet and sound insulation - not to mention the 1.5mm hard plastic casing that the fuel lines have.
I prefer the fuel lines inside, z how many times do you wear golf shoes with spikes that will penetrate the 2" of carpet and sound insulation - not to mention the 1.5mm hard plastic casing that the fuel lines have.
PanchoRama
From the great master Del Compo "so, wat you wan doin?"
High Five. Sexy Time. You Lose
From the great master Del Compo "so, wat you wan doin?"
High Five. Sexy Time. You Lose