I have it successfully running in my Milano/75 3.0 Verde(QV) and an L-Jetronic Spider.
Without getting writers cramps to explain the entire process I'll summerize the unit itself and what it took to get an Alfa running with it.
All due credit extended to Bruce Bowling and Al Grippo, the designers of the system. They design, develop and improve the system at no profit to an enthusiast market.
First, it's a DIY kit that you solder together from a group buy list. The parts are somewhere around $140US with a case, less if you want to use an existing L-Jet case. For those abroad, there are several successful MegaSquirts running throughout Europe, Asia and Australia in a variety of vehicles. There are vendors throughout the world for the parts required.
The MegaSquirt in principle utilizes the fundamentals of EFI that are present in most every installation. It runs from a digital Motorola processor (computer). In general operation, the fueling tables are burned into the volatile memory through a laptop computer without any changes to the program. The program reads the tables along with sensor input and fuels according to the user parameters. This is the "tuning" section where you drive around and tune your car to the desired performance. The tuning programs are written by enthusiasts and freely distributed. It's no more complicated to operate than an standard PC software.
All EFI systems use a combination of air intake temperature, coolant temperature, throttle position, engine RPM and measured intake air. The differences come in how the intake air is measured.
Your Alfa L-Jet and Motronic systems use a mass/air system that is measured at the air flow meter. The MegaSquirt is a speed/density system that measures the pressure of the air inside the plenum (manifold) to determine its volume. The third system is an alpha/N system that uses throttle position only. Though the MegaSquirt is capable of a/n, it's not advised on regular or slightly tuned street cars. If you have a highly tuned street car with lumpy cams or an all our race car that idles at 2500RPM then it might be for you.
The key to the MegaSquirt conversion is taking the existing applicable Bosch sensors and feeding them into the MegaSquirt. This is accomplised from an L-Jet wiring diagram and simply wired inside the gutted L-Jet box. The DB37 connector standard on the MS is omitted and wires are connected directly to the board from the appropriate pin on the L-Jet connector. This is done from the male connector inside the box so the female connector on the car is unmolsted.
I have an L-Jet to MS pinout conversion PDF developed by one of the BMW guys who did the same thing. Our car's EFI is identical to a 528, 633 and 733 L-Jet (you can even swap out ECU's from those cars to gain a little performance and lose the rev limited. More on that another time).
The AFM is no longer needed. However, the IAT sensor is. You can leave it in place and prop the door open or remove it and install an IAT sensor in the air tube to the throttle and use the AFM connector pins to send the signal back via the stock pinouts. If you don't remove the AFM, going back to the L-Jet ECU is a matter of minutes.
Ok, so that's just the surface. There are many more details of the MS capablity and many more configuration options, including modifying the Alfa intake with mix and match parts from 164's and 155's, and the issue of replacing the TPS is a sticky one. You don't NEED a TPS if you plan a mild street application. If you want a high performance modification, you'll have to pick up a TPS from a 164QV or 155TS/V6 and make a small adapter to match the bolt holes. In my latest experiment, it appears the whole throttle body just bolts right on with no issues. However, a supply of 164QV/155 throttle bodies isn't forthcoming in the US, so you may have to make the adapter. The adapter consists of a plate with 4 holes in it. Something you can make from Home Depot in an hour.
Please post your questions or comments here so 1) everyone can read them and my responses and 2) so I don't have to type the same answers several times.
I look forward to further discussion.
-Peter
By Dennis de Rooy on Thursday, January 22, 2004 - 12:41 am:
Hi Peter,
This is an interesting subject and would like to clear one thing up. I have a 164QV 12V engine in my GTV6 with the Motronic installed. The Throttle body needs minor work if you'd want to install it, but you can just switch sensors. On the outside they are identical.
Does Megasquirt only control Fuel or is it possible to control ignition as well? I'm just getting into this and I am looking for a programmable ECU that can be used with a turbo. I'm thinking of putting in an 1.8 turbo engine or turbo the TS in my 75.
By PaulG on Thursday, January 22, 2004 - 08:44 am:
Peter-What mods have been done to your Verde and Spider prior to using Megasquirt?What kind of gains in horsepower have you noticed? What could I expect on my mildly modified 2.5 V6(CB Cams,No Cat)? What would you recomend as the best configuration if I want to stay with what I've got?The current thinking has been that the 2.5 is always at a disadvantage unless you rebuild the engine with radical pistons and oversize valves and then expensive fuel injections system like Haltec or Autotronic or even better put in a 3.0..To bottom line it do you think Megaquirt is the inexpensive solution to the 2.5 performance deficiancies?Paul Grant
By Michael Harris (Admin) on Thursday, January 22, 2004 - 09:34 am:
The Megasquirt at this point only controls the fuel - so you could just retain the standard Bosch functionality to provide spark.
Peter told me that Megasquirt will release a new version called MegasquirtUltra sometime later in 2004 which will have many more features including spark control and sequential injection.
By MerrilGordon on Thursday, January 22, 2004 - 04:15 pm:
Bravo Peter !
I've had a good look at MegaSquirt's website http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html and it looks very interesting. I like the accessability (not a secret black box) and of course the cost is quite appealing, although one has to put it together them selves. I'm looking forward to further postings of your activity.
Merril
82GTV6_3.0
By Peter Webb on Thursday, January 22, 2004 - 04:47 pm:
Re: Dennis DeRooy's comments on TPS:
They aren't the same. The Milano and GTV6 use Bosch part 0 280 120 302. The 164B/L/S use Bosch part 0 280 120 300. Both switch types. The 164QV uses 0 280 122 001, a potentiometer type also used on a 155 and 916 Spider/GTV. The bolt spacings are different and the D-shaft isn't deep enough. They sorta look the same but they are not compatible as bolt ons to a Milano/GTV6 throttle body. However, I confirmed today that the throttle body from above listed cars will bolt right on to a Milano and GTV6 plenum. I'll need to find a ready source of them in Europe.
Re the spark control. As Michael points out, the UMS will be released later this year. There are derivatives of the MegaSquirt using the same hardware with code modifications to control spark. They are called MegaSquirtNSpark and MegaSquirtNEDIS. Both can readily replace a Motronic system but not as simple as plug it in and go. If there is enough interest, I can discuss this and EDIS systems in general. However, this is GTV6.org so I don't want to get too off topic regarding converting other cars.
-Peter
By psc on Friday, January 23, 2004 - 12:27 am:
THe 155QV6 and 2.0 TS throttlebodies will also work right?
By Mats on Friday, January 23, 2004 - 01:25 am:
When the Spark control is avalable it will be a seriously interesting alternative and I'll certainly watch this space! *thumbs up*
Does it work with a regular 60-2 missing Bosch trigger wheel/sensor? Reluctor adapter maybe? Need an extra hallsensor or something in the distributor or on a cam?
/Mats
By Dennis de Rooy on Friday, January 23, 2004 - 01:46 am:
Hi Peter,
I guess this is a typical misunderstanding (Alfa used different versions in Europe an America but used the same name). I was referring to the european 164 QV (it's a 12V), you call it an S version. The QV you are referring is prolly a 24V.
The 24V TPS isn't easily adaptable, you're right on that.
By PaulG on Friday, January 23, 2004 - 08:32 am:
Peter-Since you've adapted Megasquirt to the Verde and a Spider have you done any kind of measurements in terms of power or drivability versus the stock L-Jet?
By Peter Webb on Friday, January 23, 2004 - 08:44 am:
Hi again Everyone. To answer some recent questions/comments:
psc: Yes, the 155QV and 2.0TS (Motronic) throttle body will work perfectly. The one I'm experimenting with is from a 155 2.0TS.
Mats: The MSnS, MSnEDIS will work with a 62-2 wheel very well. That's available today if you wanted to combine fuel and spark into one box. There's also the experimental MegaJolt that's a stand alone spark controller. It's still in the Beta phase but several have it working. The UMS will combine fuel and spark, EDIS, trigger wheel, WB02 controller and target AFR just to list a few features. The UMS will be more functional than the current offerings, however the MSnS and MSnEDIS can be used today to replace a Motronic system or the L-Jetronic and Bosch spark box. IOW, you get rid of 2 boxes and replace it with one.
Dennis deRooy: Ok, typical Alfa to name the same model 2 different things in 2 markets, then reuse that name for a totaly different thing in the same market. In the US, the 164B/L/S were 12 valve 2 cam, the LS is 12V 4 cam and the QV are 24V 4 cam. The B/L/S used Motronic M1.7 with a switch type TPS, the QV used Motronic M4.1 with pot type. The 155QV and 1552.0TS used the same Motronic M4.1. The late 75's (90-91, not sold in the US) and 75 2.0TS also used a Motronic M1.7. This is a cause of much confusion on the Alfa75 list due to the different models sold in different markets throughout different years.
Merrill Gordon: The open source and open design of MegaSquirt is one of its most attractive features. It's the Linux of EFI. You can use it as is, modify it, or completely rewrite it. You also have the ability to modify the hardware to suit your needs too. Something the open source world doesn't give you. Like the open source world, there are several enthusiasts writing software and designing hardware on a free basis all over the world. All the great tuning tools are the efforts of people working for free and distributing and sharing their expertise.
PaulG: There are too many mods to the Verde and Spider to list here. I'm having significant flyback problems with the Spider low-Z injectors right now and have metled to sets of transistors. Similar low-Z injectors ran fine on the Milano with limited flyback at load. The BMW guys have reported the same thing using low-Z injectors and no flyback protection. The options now are to instal the flyback board designed by an enthusiast, use inline resistors with the injectors or swap them out for comparable high-Z. I'm reluctant to spec out the cars here because 1) it's constantly changing and 2) this is all experimental so what I do may not work long term where it needs a longer field trial. Overall, any mods like porting, big valves, hot cams will benefit from the MS. Another big benefit is being able to pass emissions tests and improve drivablity of modified cars. Something seriously lacking with L-Jetronic and troublesome on Motronic.
Keep it coming guys. This is a fun development that always benefits from more input. If it wasn't for the thousands of MS users around the world, it wouldn't have evolved as well as it has. B&G do the base work, but enthusiasts like us constantly find new things to do and improvements. If any of you are MC68K assembler programmers or C++/GUI developers we can certainly start our own strain of software that will aid tuning and performance on our cars. Lets keep with the spirit of the open MegaSquirt and move our development forward through broad exchanges of ideas.
-Peter
By Paulg on Friday, January 23, 2004 - 09:10 am:
Hi Peter-Thank you for your quick response.It sounds like you're still in the experimental stage trying to figure things out.I hope you will from time to time update us on your progress.By the way have you looked at Greg Gordon's Web Sight www.oldebottles.com. I don't know if this would be of any help but he sells different injectors for Alfa's depending on performance needs.Go to the sight and go to the Italian Car section and then go to page 5 where he has items for sale.
By Peter Webb on Friday, January 23, 2004 - 10:25 am:
Let me update where I am in the MegaSquirt process. The Milano is running great on the MegaSquirt. It smoothed out my Shankle cams and produced smoother power. I'm still tuning the warm up and high RPM fueling. No flyback issues with the stock injectors however I am running higher fuel pressure so the PWM load is lower. The next step is to do some work with the plenum, runners and throttle. If you are looking to put one on your GTV6 or Milano and take off the AFM, then this should work very well in a few hours. If you're like me and seeking out more power and modifications, then it's an ongoing process of trial and error of which the MegaSquirt is only one part. I has made the other mods more significant in that the L-Jet was always the limiting factor. The Milano was the first project which is now phase-1 complete in running on mostly stock intake and injection components. Phase-2 and beyond are heavy mods to the intake, larger injectors etc. This may or may not be relevant to you guys. Everyone has their own designs and requirements. I didn't want to get too involved in mine and talk in generic terms of what the MS can do for your car and what it allows you to do to your car that you couldn't before. The experiments are much bigger than the MegaSquirt alone. Rest assured that the MS will work for you from stock to wild.
The Spider is still in development. I have the head ported, polished and shaved .025". I've replaced the VVT cams qith 10548 cams. The MegaSquirt installation is still in progress here and I can't report it runs well or consistently yet. There are issues with the Spider conversion that I didn't have with the Milano. I'll get them worked out pretty soon.
By Greg Gordon on Friday, January 23, 2004 - 12:22 pm:
Thanks for the plug Paul. I do indeed have high resistance injectors in just about any flow rate you could want. They will fit our cars with no mods. I hope to put them on my web site soon.
By Lord pug on Thursday, January 29, 2004 - 07:32 am:
Peter,
How do we get one now?
By karmat on Thursday, January 29, 2004 - 09:28 am:
Peter,
Are you saying that you can pretty much just build the MegaSquirt, connect the correct wires on the old L-Jet ECU plug, stick the MS in the L-Jet housing, replace the throttle position sensor, and you are ready to run? Does the L-Jet's separate ignition module just keep doing its job?
Would you be willing to share initial fuel maps? I'm very interested! I was looking at MS before, but was wary of having to rewire the whole car.
Thanks!
Karl
By Steve R on Friday, January 30, 2004 - 03:00 am:
Agree with Karl,
I'd looked at this before but didn't really fancy the whole rewiring scenario. If this can be built as a replacement for the "guts" of an old L-jet ECU, then suddenly it makes a lots more sense. & Looks stock too.
Getting timing control would be much better too, but it sounds like that on it's way....
Better brush up on my soldering skills !
Steve
By Peter Webb on Friday, January 30, 2004 - 05:40 pm:
Yep, that's pretty much it. You don't even *need* to replace the TPS. You can get it running just fine without it. It's exactly as you described. Solder the board together, run wires from the board connector to the L-Jet connector, plug it in and go.
And, if you have trouble with it, or while you're working on it, you can just plug the L-Jet ECU back in while you get it worked out. Once it's all running nicely, you can remove the AFM.
A couple of new discoverys in the last week or so to make this even easier.
First is the throttle body from a 155 2.0TS will bolt right on to the 6C 2.5 and 3.0 plenum and carries the correct 0 280 122 001 TPS used on the ML4.1 cars.
Second is what's called MAPdot code. MS defines acceleration as TPS voltage delta per second. IOW, if you stomp it, the TPS voltage changes 1, 2, 4V per second and signals the MS to go into accel enrichment. This and the flood-clear is the only reason for the TPS. The MAP sensor provides voltage through the ADC to represent the plenum pressure in kPa. Rapid changes in this voltage can be used to detect acceleration the same way TPS does. Someone has developed code to watch MAP instead of TPS voltage to detect acceleration removing the need for TPS.
There are a couple of trade offs. MS has a flood clear mode that basically detects 100% TPS (full open) while detecting cranking, it cuts fuel delivery completely. The switch type TPS will still activate it so we don't have to give that up. MAPdot has a slightly slower reaction than TPSdot. Probably not really significant. But it is much more accurate for accel enrichment. A problem with over enriching during acceleration is a sluggishness. Accurate accel will make accel smooth and linear with no bogging.
There's no need to crack into the wiring on your car. It even works with the combi-relay when wired correctly between the MS and L-Jet connector. Totally reversable.
That said, in many cases modifications are the very nature of the need for MS. I can understand the reluctance to cut into your wiring harness. This is exactly how I did mine. I have some pictures of the MS built directly into the L-Jet box if Michael would like to post them somewhere on the site.
How do you get one? You need to buy from 2 sources. First go to www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html and order the partial kit from B&G. Next you need to populate the kit with standard electronic components, capacitors, resistors and diodes. There is a standard BOM from Digikey.com that is pre-prepared. There are alternate vendors or you can get them locally by printing out the BOM and going to your local Fry's or the like. Then find yourself a dead L-Jet ECU. I'll follow up with a description of how to prepare the case to accept the MegaSquirt board and the wiring diagram.
Look at www.megasquirt.info. Look at the various sections of the MegaManual on the right paying extra attention to the assembly section. You can download the entire 190 page manual in PDF and read it locally. It's the most important part of the MegaSquirt project.
Then join the MegaSquirt Yahoo group and read while you solder. You can do the whole thing in a weekend but I'd recommend going slowly and absorbing as much as you can.
On the question of spark. You can install the MS without touching the ignition. There are ways to delete it, ways to improve it and ways to make the MegaSquirtnSpark work with it. The MSnS uses the standard MS hardware (nothing more to solder) where you just download new code into the MS unit (takes about 40 seconds). Once the MS is in place you can add on and modify as you go. For example, I removed the Bosch spark module from my Spider and use a Marelli Plex ignition with lots of advance. Something lacking in the Bosch unit. I also got rid of the VVT and use 10548 Euro cams which rev a little better and give better torque. It's all wide open. The more you learn the more you'll be able to do.
Get you're soldering irons ready.
-Peter
By karmat on Tuesday, February 03, 2004 - 09:53 am:
Excellent! I'll definitely be checking it out. I've got a slightly modified 3.0L in my car and I'm guessing a fuel injection setup with proper map information will get me a small power boost. Ignition to come later... (perhaps from MegaJolt Jr Lite). Thanks for all the info.
Karl
By Steve R on Tuesday, February 03, 2004 - 10:52 am:
Hi Peter,
Apologies in advance for the long post, but I hope to clarify a few questions for myself and others on the site. For info my car is a Euro 83 GTV6 with 3.0 12v, 104/294 CB cams, 535i hybrid AFM, CSC manifolds etc running L-jet modified for more WOT fuelling & it runs well but I’m not pretending it’s ideal !
I’ve been researching the Mega squirt build & configure info…. I’d looked at this box before and discounted it as a bit beyond the amount of work I was prepared to do, but know I know it can be made to interface with the stock loom I’ve changed my mind. My aim is to make the ECU’s interchangeable until I’m happy with it and then ditch the AFM last. I feel reasonably comfortable building, testing and tuning this in general leaving the ignition as is for now & your 155 throttle valve TPS discovery is a very good find!
Questions centred around gutting an old L-jet ECU for this purpose: -
D37 interface. Not having a pin out diagram to hand for the stock L-jet loom connector, I’m concerned the pin out for MS & L-Jet will be (must be!) different? If so, can you advise which part of the wiring I have to change to substitute the L-jet connector for the D37 on the MS? If someone has the pin out diagram for the standard L-jet connector please post!
Relays etc. Presuming I can make the Bosch connector work such that the MS becomes a straight swap for the L-jet ECU, can I presume all the standard L-jet relay functions will work as they should (I’d guess so)
IAT & WT sensor calibration. I see the Bosch sensors are different from the GM ones. Did you use the easier option of changing the bias resistor from 2.4kohm to 2.2kohm or did you recompile the controller code with “EasyTherm”?
Injector Flyback. With 6 Low impedance injectors did you encounter problems with flyback (breakdown EMF surge) voltage? If so, were you able to solve with pulse width modulation feature in the MS or did you add the flyback board or just injector resistors?
Any other issues I should be concerned with?
regards
Steve
By Jeff Lang on Tuesday, February 03, 2004 - 02:51 pm:
Steve-
I don't want to interrupt this thread too much. My car is very similar to yours, and I'd like to ask you a few questions. If you don't mind, send me an e-mail address.
Thanks,
Jeff jel@arkansas.net
By Peter Webb on Tuesday, February 03, 2004 - 10:30 pm:
Steve,
All excellent questions and I see you've done your homework.
The interchangablity you mention is exactly what I did. I was more comfortable being able to plug the L-Jet back in at any time. It's a wise way to go until everything is tuned nicely then ditch the AFM. You can always keep an ECU and AFM in the trunk should problems arise. It's a 15 minute swap back. 2 minutes with the AFM in place.
On the wiring, I have an MS to L-Jet diagram that's very easy to follow. I've sent Michael some pictures of the gutted L-Jet box and the wiring I did. I'll also send him the diagram in PDF format for the wiring. The DB37 is left off the board and I wired directly into the holes on the board to the L-Jet connector. If you've opened an L-Jet box you'll see it's a double board. The top one unscrews along with the case mounted transistors. After that, you drill out the soft rivets that hold the connected to the case. The bottom board comes out. Cut the pins to the board and use some #40 screws and nuts to screw the connector back to the front of the case. Solder the wires to the open holes on the MS. Cut and file the L-Jet connector pins to make them blades. Then use connectors or just solder the wire directly to the pin. The pins on the L-Jet connector are numbered to make matching easy. The L-Jet box closes and screws as stock and looks completely stock from the outside. There is the issue of remote mounting the transistors for heat transfer. Which segues into the flyback issue. I had no flyback problems with the 6 low-z injectors. The TIP32 transistor needs a good heatsink to handle the flyback. I mounted it remotely to the L-Jet case with leads off the board. You can also substitute a TIP36 or TIP42 with 65/100V breakdown or change the Zener to breakdown at a lower voltage. B&G offer a flyback add-on board that does additional clamping. Or you can wire inline resistors and turn off PWM completely so they behave like high-z injectors. I've fried the flyback circuit 3 times already on the Spider with 4 low-z (and IMO undersized) injectors. I have the fuel pressure cranked up on the Milano so the PW was fairly low. 4ms cruise, 7ms WOT. The Spider was showing 14ms open time and I think that's what fried it. If you're not afraid to work through these issues, they can be resolved with some trial and error. The flyback board is the best solution but more work.
The B&G relay board isn't needed if you connect the grounds (fuel pump and injectors) from the combi-relay. It takes the place of the B&G relay board very well.
I did use the 2.2K bias resistors for the Bosch sensors. I think they read a little low. Not sure how much I trust the Alfa gauges so I can't say for sure. I would guess 10% low which is no big deal when WUE stops at 140degF anyway, and a 10% error on the ideal gas law (PV=NRT) won't affect it considerably.
I'll say that tuning can be labourious. Especially getting the priming pulse and WUE right since you only get 1 or 2 shots at it a day. If you can get it to idle and run right at temp, the rest is only an inconvenience until you get it dialed in. The other pitfall can be with high overlap cams. Those C&B might cause some issues. You can go hybrid alpha/N for idle, or just use the idle-PWM code and ignore MAP, or use a MAP filter inline with a MIG tip to create a psuedo 1-way valve to stop the MAP pulse. Anything between 24-55 Hg vacuum at idle should produce a usable MAP. I'm right on the edge so idle is still a little lumpy but not as bad as it was with the L-Jet.
Ok, an equally long answer so if you're still awake I hope this answers your questions. Based on your questions, it sounds like you have the skills to make it work well. Happy to answer or clarify anything for you. Feel free to ask.
BTW, I'd be happy to share my initial VE table. Won't be exactly right for your car but it'll be pretty close as a starting point.
-Peter
By Peter Webb on Tuesday, February 03, 2004 - 10:59 pm:
Ok got some pictures posted of the MS in the L-Jet box and the PDF diagram.
See: http://home.comcast.net/~webb.p/megasquirt/index.htm
-Peter
By Steve R on Wednesday, February 04, 2004 - 06:35 am:
Thanks for the comprehensive reply Peter.
I can now see how you made it interchangable for L-Jet, the photos are excellent (says a thousand words). I'd really appreciate the MS to L'jet pin out diagram - please post...I just can't find the L-jet pin out !
Thanks for the offer of initial tables, I'd like to take you up on that offer, it'll certainly speed up my initial tuning. I accept your points about tuning, I didn't expect it to be easy, but I like tinkering so see this as an ongoing process!
I think I might just avoid the flyback voltage problem altogether and make up the flyback board anyway, there's plenty of room inside the L-jet casing by the look of it. Otherwise Sods law says it would burn out and stand me somewhere at the most inconvenient time !
![Smile :-)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
fyi The car idle is reasonably "acceptable" as is, so hopefully the cam overlap won't be a big deal, as you say I can always smooth out the MAP spikes at tickover to help.
Peter & Jeff my email is
steven_rosser@yahoo.com
Note The space in my mail address is actually an underscore, it just doesn't look like that in the post
Thanks again
regards
By karmat on Wednesday, February 04, 2004 - 06:58 am:
Pinout for L-Jet:
http://www.firstfives.org/faq/ljet/ecu_pinout.html
This is the same for all L versions as far as I know. The Euro boxes appear not to use the O2 sensor. Don't know if that's going to be a problem for MS or not. The 3.0L 75 harness which I got with my Euro 3.0L engine didn't have anywhere to even plug in the O2 sensor. Just letting you know. The Milano harness I bought DOES have it, though. The Pinout above labels the O2 input.
Peter, yes, I too would love the pinout info for L-Jet to MS if you have it! Otherwise I'm certain I can figure it out.
Karl
By Steve R on Wednesday, February 04, 2004 - 07:01 am:
Oops & apologies just seen the link at bottom of photos for wiring diagram. Excellent stuff.
cheers Peter
By Peter Webb on Wednesday, February 04, 2004 - 09:14 am:
Moved the link for the L-Jet to MS diagram to the top and enlarged it so it's apparent. The pictures enlarge if you click them for a better view. Hope you all find it useful.
The diagram came from Peter Florance at firstfives.org as mentioned by Karl for the L-Jet pinouts. He's an avid MegaSquirter of 528's and active on the MS Yahoo group.
This diagram won't work for a 4 cylinder L-Jet Alfa (Spider). It uses one of the listed injector out pins to control the VVT (obviously because it only needs 4 injector outs, not 6).
-Peter
By Zamani on Wednesday, February 04, 2004 - 10:29 am:
Peter,
I have the mild CB cams (10.4mm lift). Are your cams similar? I have absolutely no problem with a lumpy idle. In fact, it idles as smooth as a stock Milano with L-Jet.
I'm very interested in this project and am going to build one for my mom's 3.0 GTV6.
By Steve R on Wednesday, February 04, 2004 - 10:55 am:
thanks Karmat
Mine didn't have an O2 either, but I installed one as the CSC manifolds had an O2 port in place. Output currently just running in car to a decent multimeter (0.00-2.00 volt range) for tuning visibility purposes.
I'll wire the heated element into the high current side of the fuel pump circuit and the O2 output to the MS pin 23. The case will already have a few extra holes for MAP tube, leds & serial port anyway.
regards
By Peter Webb on Wednesday, February 04, 2004 - 08:36 pm:
MegaSquirt maps are posted.
http://home.comcast.net/~webb.p/megasquirt/index.htm
Click the link and 'save as'
-Peter
By Peter Webb on Thursday, February 05, 2004 - 09:41 am:
Zamani,
I have AL6216 cams, 9.5 lift, 245 duration standard timing. The idle is lumpy at best under 1100 RPM with the L-Jet. Power up top. The MS smoothed the idle out quite a bit, even cold. It won't idle cold with the L-Jet, I have to keep it feathered.
FWIW, the Spider has the stock Bosch intake with 10548 cams @ 102 lobe centers and it idles better with the L-Jet than the MS.
Which C&B do you have?
-Peter
By Steve R on Thursday, March 04, 2004 - 03:29 am:
For info & to prove I meant it ! I've now ordered my Megasquirt kits & parts.
I'm going to build main ecu, flyback board, stimulator & also Megaview too.
Just off to an electronics store at lunchtime to buy the few extra items required.
Wish me luck, I'll post how this goes !
By chood on Friday, March 05, 2004 - 07:15 am:
Good luck with this and keep us posted.
By Peter Webb on Saturday, March 06, 2004 - 10:41 am:
Good luck Steve. Feel free to email me directly if you have any questions. My fuel map is still posted to my web page once you get the assembly complete.
Download Lance Garndiners MegaManual and make sure you join the Yahoo Megasquirt list. I can probably help you through any of the assembly and testing parts as I've rebuilt mine several times due to flyback problems (not in the Milano). I have the latest MegaManual that I can email to you if you need it. It's about 2mb in PDF format.
Are you building inside the L-Jet box or using the standard box with the pigtail to the L-Jet? If you look at my site again, I've posted pictures of the standard MS box with a short pigtail cable I made from the DB37 to the L-Jet connector I snagged from a spare box. If you bought a Stim, it'll make testing much easier.
The PDF of the pinout diagram is still there. This diagram assumes you've done the FP mod that Peter Florance posted. I didn't bother with it and just grounded the combi-relay to turn on the pump. Once you remove the AFM, you'll need to do this to turn on the fuel pump. For the time being with mine, I've just jumpered AFM pins to make the FP run. This is temporary and not safe for long term use. If you get into an accident, you want the FP to shut off.
Good luck with the assembly.
-Peter
By Steve R on Monday, March 08, 2004 - 10:27 am:
Hi Peter, I have the megamanual (seems pretty comprehensive)& have joined the yahoo group.
The pigtail & box option is neat, but I think I'm just going to build it straight into my spare L-Jet box & use the flybackboard - also built into the L-jet box (luckily the lJ box is quite big !
I'm looking for the FP mod you mention but can't find it yet, I see a few psots from him but can't find that one. Can you point out out for me (I'm being dumb I'm afraid)
cheers
By AR gtv 2,0 86 on Friday, March 26, 2004 - 09:39 am:
hi
im am going to instal MS on my 2,0L gtv motor. i will be using the bosh l-jet intake. What throtel body and tps shold i use. Dose the 155 throtel body fit straight on?
By gtv6gp on Saturday, March 27, 2004 - 12:14 am:
we have just got 140kw at the wheels from a standard 75 3L using EMS
By Peter Webb on Tuesday, April 06, 2004 - 01:21 pm:
Haven't been monitoring the group lately. I've got the Milano out and tuned using the MAPdot code for accel bypassing the TPS for the time being until the new triple throttle is ready. I'm measuring 214RWHP using the MS, stock plenum and AFM removed.
I'm pretty pleased with the results.
-Peter
By Greg Gordon on Tuesday, April 06, 2004 - 10:04 pm:
Wow, thats some serious power.
By Sam on Wednesday, April 07, 2004 - 04:01 am:
Peter,
I have been reading your posts on the 75 group, your technical knowledge is impressive, but you loose me on some of your discussions, I think you have been talking about a "ford" wheel and the different paths to take for different ign timing setups, but let me ask you this, will you/do you have plans of offerring a plug in 3.0 and/or 2.5 MS system for our Alfa's? I would love to have an MS system on my GTV6, but don't think I have the time to learn all the technical stuff you know.
By bteoh on Wednesday, April 07, 2004 - 04:17 am:
Hi Peter,
I too would like to know if you can provide a plug and play Megasquirt ECU for the GTV6. Thanks for any info. and you can email me privately regarding costs.
Cheers,
Brian Teoh
Perth, Australia
By PaulG on Wednesday, April 07, 2004 - 07:37 am:
How about just a plug and go system.I don't have a lot of time to play.
By joey on Wednesday, April 07, 2004 - 11:43 am:
yeah, that would be great if someone offered a fully assembled Megasquirt system, with perhaps some base maps - so we could accurately compare its price to some of the cheaper retail EMS solutions out there.
cheers
joe
By Greg Gordon on Wednesday, April 07, 2004 - 01:28 pm:
Hmm, I like Paul's plug and GO idea. That's what someone needs to make. Eventually we will have to go to this system or one like it due to the rising cost and decreasing supply of L-Jetronic parts.
By joey on Wednesday, April 07, 2004 - 01:40 pm:
aha ! Greg "L-Jet" Gordon finally yields...
muhahahaha !
By PaulG on Wednesday, April 07, 2004 - 04:30 pm:
Yes-Since I just bought an 81 spider with Spica Injection a "Plug and Go" Magasquirt sounds cheaper than the cost to replace a Spica Fuel Pump.By the way I bought the Spider so I would be putting less commuter miles on my GTV6.I know I sometimes wish for more power in my GTV6.Compared with this 81 spider it feels like Superman! Boy that spider is a dog. In fact I'm having the intake manifold changed out to the earlier less restrictive ones. This should make it easier to get up hills.
By Anonymous on Wednesday, April 07, 2004 - 06:26 pm:
PaulG,
You should get Euro 2-piece exhaust manifolds, ditch the air-pump if there is one, and put on an electric fan.