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[Giulietta24vTT]

Guys,
Looking again a tthe brembo picture I think there's a chance to mount the caliper just in the middle in front of the mounting ears if the machining will take enough material from the centre, al least thats how it looks like in the picture ,
...question left is what's the thickness of the Brembo GTA caliper mounts since less than 10.5mm is not very good for cast iron to deal with hi loads.
If it's thick enough I don't see any reason not to mill the hell out of it and make an adapter close to mine which could be calculated easily without measurements for the holes distances.

[Jose_76]

Steve R, how's the modification going? Did you talk to the laser guy?

[Steve R]

I'll be seeing him at the weekend... don't worry I'll let you know afterwards!

[tectoteam]

What yoiu should end up with is something like this...

hello barry.

a question; about your bolts.

8.8 class....its enough ?

because i'm having trouble to find a high class 12.9 bolts with a 70mm length totaly treated.(M12*1.50)

[tectoteam]

also,

i think about this solution (image 2) to keep the bolts on place, in order they dont move.
one another bolt that 'hold' the first.

sounds easy and cheap.
because my hats are already done...and i have to modify them...

WHY:
i make hats that keep the disc closer to car far to wheel.
in order to fit big brake on small wheels.
but this oblige me to make hats with a big thickness.

[Steve R]

Jose, the engineering shop I visited for brakes and dyno session weren't comfortable with the idea of milling big chunks out of the big Brembo 4 pots unless I could show that someone else has already done it safely. So I'm looking again at other options, like moving the mountings on the hub. Sorry for not replying earlier !

Supplimentary question for Barry, is there a particular welding procedure for re-attaching the relocated "ears" on the hub upright? Was it strightforward MIG, TIG or something special?

thanks in advance
S

[Barry]

Hey,this topic is atill active !!

T,I tapped the bells (m12 x 1.5 pitch) and then screwed the 8.8 grade bolts into the bells.The washers are important(machined washers,2mm thick,same as cylinder head washers..)The bolts are radiused under the head,and the washer allows the fitment without having to chafer the hole in the bell,this would take away valuable threads..
The bells are 5mm thick here-I coated them liberaly with Loctite and then torqued them to 25nm.
Note that I had the bells hard annodized for strength(the threads..)
I have had no problems with pulled threads and loose bolts..
As for the grade 8.8 bolts,They have proven themselves on numerous cars,including race cars on the track...

There is an upgrade to this setup which I have not bothered to post ...Will take pics and post.



Steve,I simply welded the ears back on with a steel arc rod.Arc welded all the conversions done over the years..
The upright is forged steel,Im sure you could use tig welding method,but I would use a specialist welder to cross fill the "V".Unless of course you are an expert welder..I liked the arc for the simple reason that it fills well,you can cross fill the V ,and its all I have to weld with..

Just remember that a smal tack on either side ,front and rear,will limit the warpage of the job..Welding will pull the ear over badly if you attempt to run a full weld one side and then go to the other side...Ask me,I know....


Just checked your post again-if your bells are thicker,even better,more threads .

[tectoteam]

ok.

lets go for 8.8 or 10.9 eventually.

i will take a pic of my bells, you will see that there is a lot of tread in mines.

i have 25mm of tread........ because my bells are ....large...?!
i made a system that is the closest possible form the car, in order to run small wheels and big brakes.

[Giulietta24vTT]

Hi all,
I have adopted Barry's method of the wheel bolts transplanted as studs into a matching 1.5 pitch instead of my old style bolts coming from the whee'ls side into the steel plate I had made from behind the GTA disk-works great!!!!
No more rattling at high high speeds , no more released bolts after a hard drive !
Only changes I did was a thicker machined steel plate with the 5 bolts pattern with 1.5 pitch and 2 small studs for disk easy mounthing, I also machines the hub's rear surface a little and had it balanced on a VSR .
Blue hard type locktite and machined 6mm ccne washers totaly prevent any backwards response of the bolts at the rear when closing on the wheels-cheers Barry:)

[kevin]

While looking in Barry's waste bin, (dont ask why) I have found proof hes up to something. Check this out.

[Barry]

Hey Kev,yes,those are actually scrap-and we were playing on the NC machine with differing letter types,hence the name on the caliper.Fooling around with this.We machined everything and then could not economically split the 2 halves!!!
Thats why they ended up in the scrap bin..

We are now using pre split half rounds to machine the calipers..

[Barry]

For those of you that would like big brakes and still use your 15" wheel,Im busy with a race car at the moment..

The largest disc you would be able to fit is a 300mm diameter..And then you would need a narrow bridge caliper such as the small Brembo 4 pot.
Pad size 110mm x 50mm x17mm.

Kev,check it out and lets do yours..

[Barry]

[Barry]

To clear the rim ,I had to move the disc as far inwards as possible.The gta disc got a 10mm spacer behind the hub as well as a 10mm sapcer on the outside..As the discs need to be changed quickly,The stud girdle unbolts,the studs are pulled out and the disc remaved/replaced.All the other stuff stays attached to the hub,so you dont have a zillion things falling of when you remove the hub..

[Barry]