ALFAGTV6.COM

[Zamani]

That's true. The tire has a bad reputation over here. It was known as the V700 ECSTA, and somehow later known as the V70A. Maybe the names may differ between markets. Besides what Mats said, they also tend to "chunk" too. It's much better to use the D01J, A048, RE55 than the Kumhos. I used the Kumho Victoracer before, and it was nothing special. I prefer my Advan A048s.

If you want a faster tire, but not a slick, than the Kumho V710 could be a good choice. It looks like a slick but it probably doesn't stick as good as slicks. Still, the difference in lap times doesn't justify (for me at least) the amount of wear.

[Mats]

With K9A compound they are fine, inexpensive and fast.
Just seems that Kumho made them considerably softer then the other manyfacturers i.e. "Hard" Kumhos are like "Soft" Yokos.

[MD]

Mats,
Over here I am not aware of a "K" rating system. They rate tyre hardness in terms of Hard, Medium,Soft. Not all brands have the 3 options and as you say, apples aren't always apples. One brand of hardness is not necessarily the same as a competitor's.
The Kuhmos we use are the "hard" compound.They are comparable in performance to the Dunlop DO1J's although that is a debatable claim some would say. Our tarmacs are usually that bloody hot that soft compouds die very quickly.
Kevin,
This tyre is a road/race tyre of the semi slick variety. Our rules don't allow the use of slicks. This is our first year of competition so we will test a number of tyres in the near future.
BTW mate, your topic set is fast becoming a general race forum...

[MR2 Zig]

Kevin,

As I understand it the paint that is used on radiators is really thin and meant to transfer heat a bit. Also copper and brass radiators need a bit of corrosion protection....aluminum radiators don't need it.

I forget if you made a cold air baffle / box to get your intake air from infront of the radiator shell....it'd be a good thing to do. Otherwise block all the holes you can in the radiator shell and set a air dam to direct air to the radiator. On my street car, GTV6, I was having an overheating problem at stops and in traffic because my fans weren't working....to help cool the engine I released the hood. I noticed that as I drove the rear edge would come up about 1.5 inches at about 70mph and the temp would drop really fast. I think if you added an "out" vent or raised the rear edge of the hood you wold see some benifit. Maybe remove the plastic piece in the middle of the hood if you still have it?

hth,

zig

[kevin]

Thanks MR 2, got radiator in. I have left whole open in 3.0l bonnet and got a shrouded fan which I am also sealing onto radiator around sides with rubber . Will find out only next week if its working. I meantime I have moved exhaust to the side with one box. Now my CV boot and rear caliper temps will be same as right side. I used two 50mm pipes from from headers through flexi, through 500mm box and out side. Just need to heat shield plastic on lower cills. Must say the sound is totally different.
For front of car been unstable under braking with full slicks i am going to reduce tyre pressure again and also recheck my toe under bump steer to see how much variation there is.(method in Track and Race Magazine).
Work continues with dyno this week followed by huge event on saturday.

[kevin]

Probably should have put box under gearlever section but was running out of time. Must heatshield above box to protect rear coupling. Maybe thats not an issue.

[MR2 Zig]

Probably not enough time to get it done before sat, but in the off season take your exhaust to a powder coater and get the high temp stuff put on all the piping and headers. The stuff looks like chrome, but not as shiney and keeps the heat in the pipe more. Just make darn sure that there is no grease, oil, or dirty fingerprints on it before you run the engine. Look at this site for some info http://www.capsbhc.com/index.htm

They are by no means the only purveyor of this stuff....you should be able to get it locally. I think it'll help your temp problems.

zig

[kevin]

MR2, The coating system we import here from USA will cost more than the purchase of my car(Rand vs Dollar).I did my headers on my other car with it. Great stuff but will wrap it. Thanks for suggestion.
Here is a link for sound. Pretty crap video clip but gives you an idea.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jvwcc1uDaRs
Pic of old vs new radiator. Sealed up all the sides. Mats do I need more

[MR2 Zig]

Right RORTY that

Sorry, I forgot about that exchange rate


Scott

[ar4me]

Hey Kevin,
Could you post a pic of the cage for the driveshaft coupling that you make and use on your race car? I saw in Fernando's engine mishap thread that he got one from you. My 3.7 race Milano is mechanically done and I expect to run it next year, although cosmetics are still lagging. I still have some sorting and the driveshaft is coming out shortly. I'm thinking that perhaps adding a cage to the front coupling would be worthwhile (besides or instead of the 3-ear reinforcement plate).
Jes

[MD]

Kevin
Quick tip on the radiator install.
Be sure to plug off ALL other holes on the sides of the radiator panels to force all frontal air going to engine bay through the radiator.
Use distilled water and a 50% ethyglycol mix to increase the boiling point.
Be shure you have the correct pressure caps fitted.

[kevin]

MD, thanks will close up side even though there is a tiny gap . Good point on distilled water . I have started using Water Wetter.(google it). Temp got to a max of 85 on a very hard dyno session tonight so very happy about that. Then again there was no boiling hot track under car or 'traffic'. The power is up 13kw from new intake plennum, new intake pipe and new exhaust and nore mapping time. max power is at 6300rpm, 34 deg adv with 205 horses on the wheels at our extremely high Altitude. I would say base on some calcs (kevins calcs) that this would be +- 300hp at sea level on ENGINE not wheels.
Jes, the cage stops the coupling from expanding and also limits the flex which is still huge. There are no more cages left. Only made enough for me , Baz and Div.
Go to Scuderiadelbiscione sight.

[ar4me]

Thanks for the pics. As they say a picture speaks a 1000 words. Hmm, any chance Dawie has some left, you think?

BTW, I always run distilled water and redline water wetter in the race car - works well. Regular coolant is not nice since it is slick should you spill on the track - if I remember correctly the water wetter is not.

Jes

[Greg Gordon]

Those look really nice! Someone will have to step up to the plate and have a dozen or so sets made up.

Greg

[Zamani]

Kevin,

Is this new plenum the enlarged GTV6 plenum?

I would definitely like to get the cage for the donut.