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OrMar
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Will Bilsteins ordered for 75 fit my GTV2.0 body?

Post by OrMar »

Or did I make a fatal mistake by buying them ?
Model is B6.

Yes, Mats, I'm looking in your direction. :)

Thanks, OrMar
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Post by Mats »

B6? not B46?

I see no problem either way.
Be sure to remove the awful std bumpstops in the front suspension if you lower it, they are a complete handling-destroyer.
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Post by gtv11636 »

I see no Shock Model B6 on Ther web site, Didnt you mean B46 ?
Anyway, On Bilsteins Web site, the Numbers for the "MILANO SEDAN" and GTV6\Alfetta GT\GTV are diffrent. :roll:

btw - they also write on ther web site application guide, that the shocks for alfetta\gtv\gtv6 (HD) are not sutible for use on cars with lowering springs.

Any coments ? :?

Is there any way to overcome this problem ?
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Post by OrMar »

Mats wrote:B6? not B46?
I see no problem either way.
Be sure to remove the awful std bumpstops in the front suspension if you lower it, they are a complete handling-destroyer.
Actually, B46, you both are right.
I'm not quite sure what you mean by "std bumpstops ?
Are those visible on, for example, http://www.performatek.com/Alfa/bushing ... o/dwgA.gif ?

Thanks, OrMar
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Post by Mats »

Nope, the GTV had a bumpstop fitted to the chassis in between the two control arms, it meets the plate next to the anti-rollbar fixing on the lower control arm.

When you lower the car the actual travel of the front suspension is very limited and can cause very dangerous effects when you bottom out on a fast turn. Remove the rubber bit or the whole sheet metal thing.
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-onemanracing.com-
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GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
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Post by OrMar »

I gues you mean this little feller ?

Image

OrMar
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Post by Mats »

Exactly.
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BILSTEINS

Post by Zagato »

Ormar, what is the full number of theshocks that you bought?
Should look like B46-1175 or B46-0465?
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Post by gtv11636 »

Mats wrote:Nope, the GTV had a bumpstop fitted to the chassis in between the two control arms, it meets the plate next to the anti-rollbar fixing on the lower control arm.

When you lower the car the actual travel of the front suspension is very limited and can cause very dangerous effects when you bottom out on a fast turn. Remove the rubber bit or the whole sheet metal thing.
Extending down the Uprights will solve this problem without taking out the Bump stop, wont it ?
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Post by Mats »

Probably, but you don't need the bumpstop anyway since the dust covers on the dampers from a 75 will have them integrated. Get those for a quick, easy, factory solution.
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-onemanracing.com-
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GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
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Post by TS_turbo »

hmm interesting mod .... lower front whith proper lower arm geometry and high roll center+rized uper arm for camber gain... but how is this done .. i cant eplain to mayself where is balljoint :?


sorry for offtopic :(
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Post by Maurizio »

Hmm familiar picture

In the pic the balljoint is in the lower A-arm. And the upright is clamped with a bolt. This will only work with 16" or more wheels.
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Post by Mats »

:shock: :lol:

The Wheel is on inside-out?? :roll:
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-onemanracing.com-
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GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
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Post by TS_turbo »

Mats wrote::shock: :lol:

The Wheel is on inside-out?? :roll:
yes to not rub :D .. no problem for clearance .. i have 35mm adaptor spacers 4x98 to 4x100...
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Post by Maurizio »

35 mm won't help when using less then 16" wheels.

Haven't treid it but I don't think a car with - ET on the front wheels will be a serious hand full driving. I run SZ wheels on my daily driver and they are ET7 at the front. The car is very responsive to tracks in the road. I would say that ET7 is the max.

Putting the upright/balljoint out of the wheel is not a good idea, I wouldn't like the idea of having suspension parts touching the tarmac when I run a flat tyre.

Saluti,
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Banned.. ? ;-) Daily donky.. ==> BMW 325d Image
E36M3 (3.0) Ringtool :twisted: ==> definitely BANNED!

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