"Fuel Savers" crap or not?
I've seen some different so called "fuel savers" and wondered if anyone has tried them?
Heres a link to an injector 'heater' for better fuel vaporization?????
http://www.vaporate.com/main.php?page=how_it_works
Heres a link to a magnetic type fuel saver avail' in OZ.........wierd?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Fuel-Saver-4-Alf ... dZViewItem
and i remeber another one years (fuelmaster ?) ago that had a canister you spliced into the fuel line before the carbies/injectors. The canister had tiny particles of tin/lead (i think) which increased octane rating of the fuel = better power/econmy etc
What do you all reckon? loads of BS or some truth just not really practical in the real world or some great success's out there????
probably a good episode for myth busters eh ?
Heres a link to an injector 'heater' for better fuel vaporization?????
http://www.vaporate.com/main.php?page=how_it_works
Heres a link to a magnetic type fuel saver avail' in OZ.........wierd?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Fuel-Saver-4-Alf ... dZViewItem
and i remeber another one years (fuelmaster ?) ago that had a canister you spliced into the fuel line before the carbies/injectors. The canister had tiny particles of tin/lead (i think) which increased octane rating of the fuel = better power/econmy etc
What do you all reckon? loads of BS or some truth just not really practical in the real world or some great success's out there????
probably a good episode for myth busters eh ?
It's all crap!
Think about it, the injectors need the flow of fuel to cool them down and you should never run them at over 85% because they can overheat, would you really want to heat them more? The "Fuel atomization" BS is also really funny because unless you have some serious problems that should be fixed anyway ALL the fuel you put into your engine will be vaporized once you apply compression, compressing the mixture heats is and the fuel will vaporize, this in turn cools the mixture because it takes a lot of energy to transfer liquid to vapour.
Never buy any of those product be it a intake cyclone or anything from someone calling their product something with a "venturi-effect".
Think about it, the injectors need the flow of fuel to cool them down and you should never run them at over 85% because they can overheat, would you really want to heat them more? The "Fuel atomization" BS is also really funny because unless you have some serious problems that should be fixed anyway ALL the fuel you put into your engine will be vaporized once you apply compression, compressing the mixture heats is and the fuel will vaporize, this in turn cools the mixture because it takes a lot of energy to transfer liquid to vapour.
Never buy any of those product be it a intake cyclone or anything from someone calling their product something with a "venturi-effect".
Mats Strandberg
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
- Mezevenf
- Platinum
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This is what I love to hear
What about Roil and all that oil additive stuff?
What about Roil and all that oil additive stuff?
Bernard M (AKA Mef - Mezevenf)
1986 75QV 3.0L 24v V6 - Silver
1985 GTV6 2.5L 12v V6 - Red
1999 166 3.0L 24v V6 - Red
NightSpec
1986 75QV 3.0L 24v V6 - Silver
1985 GTV6 2.5L 12v V6 - Red
1999 166 3.0L 24v V6 - Red
NightSpec
hehe
I even saw a segment on Today tonight ( a current affairs TV show here)
about how you get way better ecomomy with 5% or 10% ethanol blended fuels!
The test involved 4 holden commodores (opels) (first problem ) all fuel tanks empty then they add 5 litres of fuel one car standard unleaded(95 octane) one premium unleaded (96 octane) and the othe 2 had 5% blend ethanol unleaded and the last 10% ethanol blended unleaded.
They then all drive around a test track at the same speed and the results where
"Surprisingly, the car using premium unleaded ran out of fuel first. Second to break down was the unleaded. Of the ethanol blends, the E5 conked out first, with the E10 victorious 40 minutes after the premium unleaded car pulled over."
How can a car running on premium run out before unleaded let alone before any ethanol blended fuels!!
More CRAP CRAP CRAP??????????????????
how can they get away with it........
link to "fairytale" http://seven.com.au/todaytonight/story/?id=24813
I even saw a segment on Today tonight ( a current affairs TV show here)
about how you get way better ecomomy with 5% or 10% ethanol blended fuels!
The test involved 4 holden commodores (opels) (first problem ) all fuel tanks empty then they add 5 litres of fuel one car standard unleaded(95 octane) one premium unleaded (96 octane) and the othe 2 had 5% blend ethanol unleaded and the last 10% ethanol blended unleaded.
They then all drive around a test track at the same speed and the results where
"Surprisingly, the car using premium unleaded ran out of fuel first. Second to break down was the unleaded. Of the ethanol blends, the E5 conked out first, with the E10 victorious 40 minutes after the premium unleaded car pulled over."
How can a car running on premium run out before unleaded let alone before any ethanol blended fuels!!
More CRAP CRAP CRAP??????????????????
how can they get away with it........
link to "fairytale" http://seven.com.au/todaytonight/story/?id=24813
Sounds like a very scientific test...
Ethanol in gas will make the engine need more fuel, the only "economic" thing is if the ethanol is MUCH cheaper. Here in Sweden you can but E85 at the gas station an it costs ~7.70 SEK compared to ~11.5 SEK for RON 95 (which by the way is E5 already here). Lot of ethanol conversion going on here and they all say the same thing, at least 30% more fuel is needed.
Very knock resistent though but the car needs SHITLOADS of fuel when started cold, even heated fuel if the temperature drops below freeze. Not just pump and go in a gasoline engine then.
Ethanol in gas will make the engine need more fuel, the only "economic" thing is if the ethanol is MUCH cheaper. Here in Sweden you can but E85 at the gas station an it costs ~7.70 SEK compared to ~11.5 SEK for RON 95 (which by the way is E5 already here). Lot of ethanol conversion going on here and they all say the same thing, at least 30% more fuel is needed.
Very knock resistent though but the car needs SHITLOADS of fuel when started cold, even heated fuel if the temperature drops below freeze. Not just pump and go in a gasoline engine then.
Mats Strandberg
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
I think here the Ethanol push has tried to gain momentum with these types of tactics (dodgy tests) etc to change the publics view. Most people here think ethanol will damage engine/increase wear etc and don't want to use it. Especially after some fuel stations have been cutting unleaded fuel with other "ingredients" causing major engine damage etc etc (which these types of TV shows get all over one week then the next they say run your car on Ethanol AND save fuel?) WTF! Even the governments "fleet" of holden statesman's will be run on 5% ethanol now to try and change this perception.
Do people have problems running on E 85 up there? sounds like non ethanol fuel prices will have to get alot higher before ethanol is actually cheaper to use.
but... then again i'm sure we'll see "testimonials" i save $10 every time i fill up now on ethanol its great on TV
.......(they'll just forget to mention filling up more often! )
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Do people have problems running on E 85 up there? sounds like non ethanol fuel prices will have to get alot higher before ethanol is actually cheaper to use.
but... then again i'm sure we'll see "testimonials" i save $10 every time i fill up now on ethanol its great on TV
.......(they'll just forget to mention filling up more often! )
[/u]
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- Verde
- Posts: 1552
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2004 7:06 pm
Popular Mecanics magazine did a very good article on a bunch of these products a few months ago, including the "Tornado" some magnetic thing, and all types of devices. EVERY SINGLE one of them caused a loss in power and economy.
My personal favorite has to the the Magnetic type. I mean who out there thinks fuel is magnetic?
NOTE: It's possible to get a power increase with some of the types that restrict the air intake like the "Tornado" if something is wrong with your car and it's running too rich. Blocking just the right amount of air could possibly bring the mixture back to the correct value. That's the only way these things can increase power and of course more power could be had by simpy fixing the problem instead.
My personal favorite has to the the Magnetic type. I mean who out there thinks fuel is magnetic?
NOTE: It's possible to get a power increase with some of the types that restrict the air intake like the "Tornado" if something is wrong with your car and it's running too rich. Blocking just the right amount of air could possibly bring the mixture back to the correct value. That's the only way these things can increase power and of course more power could be had by simpy fixing the problem instead.
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- Verde
- Posts: 1552
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2004 7:06 pm
The esupercharger is a joke, at low RPM it may provide a slight amount of boost but as RPM increases it becomes a blockage. It simply doesn't help.
HOWEVER!!! There is an electric supercharger that does work using a bunch of batteries to drive what are essentailly starter motors connected to an Eaton Root blower. It has the advantage of easy mounting, no power loss to drive the thing and A LOT of power delivered to the wheels.
Of course it's only good for about a 15 second burst after which it takes your alternator about an hour to recharge the batteries. So in operation it's more like a self recharging nitrous system.
Here is a link, (sorry about the pop up, it's not my site)http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/0406tur_knight/
Greg Gordon www.hiperformancestore.com (where we use real supercharger systems)
HOWEVER!!! There is an electric supercharger that does work using a bunch of batteries to drive what are essentailly starter motors connected to an Eaton Root blower. It has the advantage of easy mounting, no power loss to drive the thing and A LOT of power delivered to the wheels.
Of course it's only good for about a 15 second burst after which it takes your alternator about an hour to recharge the batteries. So in operation it's more like a self recharging nitrous system.
Here is a link, (sorry about the pop up, it's not my site)http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/0406tur_knight/
Greg Gordon www.hiperformancestore.com (where we use real supercharger systems)
Up to '2' PSI at atmospheric pressure, not at significant negative manifold pressures produced by high RPM. RAM air would do you better, and no parasitic energy draw!
You could put a model plane nitromethane turbofan engine in our size intake and that would produce some pos pressure.....
What I am considering is a one sided turbo like the old Buicks GN's, any thoughts...?
You could put a model plane nitromethane turbofan engine in our size intake and that would produce some pos pressure.....
What I am considering is a one sided turbo like the old Buicks GN's, any thoughts...?
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- Verde
- Posts: 1552
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2004 7:06 pm
The Buick GN setup is excellent and will work on our GTV6s (I am talking about the basic design, not the actual parts from a GN). There is enough room to squeeze it in there although it's really tight up by the thermostat housing. I actually made it all fit in a non operational prototype about 3 years ago before switching to the supercharger set up.