TS_turbo wrote:Mats your gtv looks extra low in the back too ... how do you compensate
crapy halfshafts angle when back is very low?
Can't say I have given this much though. I figured that they are still way, way better then on any FWD car so what the hey.
Not like I'm driving it 20 000Km every year either.
Maurizio: True, but if I'm going to change the setup I might as well do something that fixes both the dry and wet setup problem.
Dennis: Fortunately all communication on this board is done through the eyes.
Mats Strandberg -Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground... -onemanracing.com- -Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
Hey,Im actaully being serious here...left to right and right to left...upside down...It could work.
Z,the caliper is more effective if its tied to a rope and thrown out of the window when wanting to stop..the idea is that with a bit of luck,it will act as an anchor. or snag on a pole or sumtin...
I'd be scared stiff to run the OE ball joint upside down. My guess is it will jump out in a (non)suitable place. If it works the only issue is making the taper in the upright.
Barry, then you're being very brave. I guess you figured that out already but you don't want to use the ball joint in the other direction. You will pull it out of the lower arm or pull the ball out of its housing
Future upgrade for me, if I get it into my 15" wheels. I would go uniball in a custom housing, same dimensions as oem in the arm in its normal position.
Ps. Was brewing on this one. Need some info, anyone ever tried to put the 5 stud bell on a older gt(v) upright (which fits into 13" wheels). The 75 upright will not fit into a 15" with upside down configuration. Recon the older 13" uprights are shorter. Drill the taper to a straight hole and make an adaptor for the caliper
Banned.. ? Daily donky.. ==> BMW 325d
E36M3 (3.0) Ringtool ==> definitely BANNED!
AR 75 TS Ringtool '90, AR Spider 2000 veloce '79
I was thinking along the lines of a tubular chromoly lower a-arm with nascar ball-joints. These are relatively cheap, screw-in, all parts can be replaced, strong enough and fully adjustable.