I ended getting the brake set up from APE - makes sense since Larry has done all this before - specifically with a GTV6. I ordered the Alfetta pedal box and a 164 Booster - apparently, the pedal box needs minor modification to allow the clutch MC to sit alongside the 164 booster, when using an Alfetta pedal box.
I'll see this weekend.
New question - do you guys have a recommendation for an aftermarket adjustable fuel pressure regulator? It does not need to be rising rate or anything like that since I'm using GoTech. I have to get an aftermarket inline setup since my engine was shipped sans this piece
I'll see this weekend.
New question - do you guys have a recommendation for an aftermarket adjustable fuel pressure regulator? It does not need to be rising rate or anything like that since I'm using GoTech. I have to get an aftermarket inline setup since my engine was shipped sans this piece
Michael
1981 GTV6
1981 GTV6
try www.summitracing.com They have adjustable regulators and rising rate regulators. They go anywhere from around $50 to $140 to $300
FYI: GTV6 stuff for sale at: http://alfagtv6.com/bb/viewtopic.php?t= ... 2981770509
Thanks Zamani - I beleive the Glenwood setup was modified in some manner to expect an aftermarket inline regulator. I'll look this weekend to see if it can be adapted back to stock (would be my preference!).
All that is needed is a 3 bar FPR.
My brake parts arrived - should have more information and some pics some time this weekend
All that is needed is a 3 bar FPR.
My brake parts arrived - should have more information and some pics some time this weekend
Michael
1981 GTV6
1981 GTV6
The brakes are coming along now. I spent lots of time modifying the Alfetta pedal box so that it will work with the 164 Booster, in the GTV6.
In this 1st pic, you can see the pedal box in place in the GTV6 firewall.
The holes where the booster is mounted have been 'slotted' to move the booster towards the midline of the car. This is because the booster is just wide enough that when the stock holes are used, the booster cannot be mounted because it interferes with the clutch master cylinder (adjacent). On the back side (I'll take some more pics when the pedal box is again removed), the booster pushrod now connects to the right hand side of the Alfetta brake pedal (when viewed from the driver foot well).
Tool of choice for slotting the booster mounting holes - a gigantic bastard file
Clearance is good - it will enable the valve cover to be accessed easily for maintenance.
Here is the problem now ... the booster is hitting the bodywork - as you can see, the booster cannot be snugged up against the pedal box currently.
So, next step is to yank the engine out again, and make some clearance the old fashioned way with a BFH. I don't think I need much room. An alternative, is to make some sort of spacer to move the booster or the entire pedal box out a bit - the former will interfere with the geometry of the mechanism and alter the pedal position I think. I feel it is ideal to have the booster as far back as possible in any regard.
You can also see that I filed down the booster slightly - its a really tight fit! I also ground a shallow notch into the CMC to provide more clearance.
Cheers,
In this 1st pic, you can see the pedal box in place in the GTV6 firewall.
The holes where the booster is mounted have been 'slotted' to move the booster towards the midline of the car. This is because the booster is just wide enough that when the stock holes are used, the booster cannot be mounted because it interferes with the clutch master cylinder (adjacent). On the back side (I'll take some more pics when the pedal box is again removed), the booster pushrod now connects to the right hand side of the Alfetta brake pedal (when viewed from the driver foot well).
Tool of choice for slotting the booster mounting holes - a gigantic bastard file
Clearance is good - it will enable the valve cover to be accessed easily for maintenance.
Here is the problem now ... the booster is hitting the bodywork - as you can see, the booster cannot be snugged up against the pedal box currently.
So, next step is to yank the engine out again, and make some clearance the old fashioned way with a BFH. I don't think I need much room. An alternative, is to make some sort of spacer to move the booster or the entire pedal box out a bit - the former will interfere with the geometry of the mechanism and alter the pedal position I think. I feel it is ideal to have the booster as far back as possible in any regard.
You can also see that I filed down the booster slightly - its a really tight fit! I also ground a shallow notch into the CMC to provide more clearance.
Cheers,
Michael
1981 GTV6
1981 GTV6
Hi Mike:
Except in this case, I can remove the engine in 10 minutes as its just sorta sitting there and the crane is ready to go - nothing hooked up yet.
How would you suggest 'adding a compensating length' to the pushrod? Can the length be adjusted by screwing the pushrod out? I tried that a bit but it did not seem to alter the length at all.
Thanks,
Except in this case, I can remove the engine in 10 minutes as its just sorta sitting there and the crane is ready to go - nothing hooked up yet.
How would you suggest 'adding a compensating length' to the pushrod? Can the length be adjusted by screwing the pushrod out? I tried that a bit but it did not seem to alter the length at all.
Thanks,
Michael
1981 GTV6
1981 GTV6