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x-rad
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Post by x-rad »

I was thinking about the same thing with the oil filled pistons..problem is that they are GREAT at taking up slack, but very hard to compress..

they will make correct belt tension when engine cool when you set tension, but way too tight when hot

maybe a cylinder with something like a valve spring in it pushing on the rod...enough force when cool and will compress enough when hot...
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Post by slyalfa »

On the camery the belt seems to to feel good hot or cold. And the life of the belt speaks for it's self. It works like a shock. you can push it in and its will pop back out. it just slows it down.
1987 black Milano Verde
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x-rad
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Post by x-rad »

does it apply enough force to keep the belt in place if you can compress by hand?

sounds more like a spring/piston combo rather than the stiff oil dampers like mitsubishi had on the Eclipse..you had to comperss them slowly in a vise and then insert saftey pin..
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slyalfa
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Post by slyalfa »

Sounds the same. you can not push in it by hand. you need a press or a vise.
and it also has a pin to hold it closed to install the belt.(not needed as you just bolt it in on the camery)

My guess is is the same inside just a different mount.

The jap cars have very long timming belt life so the oil filled spring units must work well.
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Barry
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Post by Barry »

You guys are trying to re design the wheel here... :!:
French cars are shit and shit expensive to service and bloody awful and unreliable and expensive and friends don't let friends drive french cars and you wait years for parts.
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x-rad
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Post by x-rad »

Barry: old topics never die, they just pop back up in a someone else's post....
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Barry
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Post by Barry »

x-rad wrote:Barry: old topics never die, they just pop back up in a someone else's post....
Yup,so true...good for the newbies as well I suppose.. :wink: :D :D
French cars are shit and shit expensive to service and bloody awful and unreliable and expensive and friends don't let friends drive french cars and you wait years for parts.
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Michael
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Post by Michael »

Its been 2 years since I started this project - man, this was supposed to be a weekend bolt-in project :shock:
Anyway, good news is that I'm ready to start again. I moved houses, had to rework the garage a bit.

1st question - anyone know a make/model serpentine belt to use for the alternator? Could be lots of trial and error to find the right length. I ended up reusing my existing alternator, with the 164LS pulley on the front. I just need to figure out how to attach the adjuster and get a belt installed.
I'll be looking over everything else this weekend to get a complete list of open issues.

Cheers,
Michael
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Post by ar4me »

Get the engine in, and you will probably find very little clearance between the alternator and the right-hand chassis "box" for the castor arm. I simply put a measuring tape on it and went to the auto parts store. A few tries and I got it right. The biggest problem was that there was hardly any clearance so it had to be just right (no room for much adjustment to take up belt slack). This was in a Milano.
Jes
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87 Milano 3.0 Motronic - budget race car - Roxanne
87 Milano 3.7 24v - race car
(Repeat or do as I say at your own risk - be critical)
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Giuliettaevo2
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Post by Giuliettaevo2 »

if you have a long, old belt you can cut it of at the right length. That's how i did it the last time. or when it is too short you just cut it and measure the gap when you put it on, combine it with the length of the belt and then you know what length you'll need.
Drive it like you stole it...
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Post by kevin »

I will give you the size I used because you have very little for adjustment if you have the wrong size of belt in the GTV. Right belt ,its very easy. Start off as close to block as possible.
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Post by ar4me »

Note that if you don't have the same size alternator pulley as Kevin his belt length may stiill not be quite right for you.
Jes
87 Milano Verde - daily driver - Juliet
87 Milano 3.0 Motronic - budget race car - Roxanne
87 Milano 3.7 24v - race car
(Repeat or do as I say at your own risk - be critical)
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Post by kevin »

Right you are Jes. Michael ,look at previous posts . Its so simple to install the origional alternator. Twenty mins tops.What you should do is use a straight edge to see whih teeth to put the belt on which lines up with waterpump pulley, crank pulley and alt pulley. Tip, put the belt first over alternator and lastly over waterpump as the correct size belt is a bit of a bugger to put on.(only a bit)
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Michael
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Post by Michael »

Thanks guys for the help.
I believe have the alternator lined up correctly - what I still need to work out is how to attach the upper adjuster to the engine block. On my 12v engine, the water pump provided the mounting points for the bracket which in turn housed the 8mm stud which the adjuster bracket attached to. I have a timing belt pulley in that location now. Does this need to be a custom bracket?
Someone have a pic to share?

Also, how does the throttle cable work? Seems I need a custom one as well as a bracket.
Michael
1981 GTV6
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Post by kevin »

Michael, if you are using the standard alternator all the pics on how to mount it are on the page before along with the belt size. As far as the accelarator cable goes you must just measure the length you need and get one made with a thread on the end so you can put two adjusting nuts. You might have to make two incase you get the first one to long. I will try find a pic.
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