Don't moan to me, I got 95% humidity and swimming in my own underwear even before I step out in the frying sunlight..lucky I wear dem magnetic boots 24/7 otherwise I would slip off the planet...You know its cold when a piece of ice falls out the creases in the car cover while you working on it . ..
Re: Project 2 : front mount SA GTV 3.0 - Sei diff
Transaxle Alfas Haul More Arse
Re: Project 2 : front mount SA GTV 3.0 - Sei diff
Kev you may want to look into this:
http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Tool ... d=psj120xl
Milwaukee, Dewalt and other brands also make these.
Are portable tarp covered garages in the driveway frowned upon?
http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Tool ... d=psj120xl
Milwaukee, Dewalt and other brands also make these.
Are portable tarp covered garages in the driveway frowned upon?
Re: Project 2 : front mount SA GTV 3.0 - Sei diff
That jacket needs extension on the back( tails) to prevent Alfa crack from showing which would scare the neighbours more than a portable tarp . However I don't stay out long enough as the kettle requires constant monitoring now that I'm in the land of tea drinkers
In 14hrs I will be in 30 degrees in sunny SA to assist fellow competitors in this years annual Zwartkops international . Irritating I'm not racing this year but another year of lower spine rehab and I will be back in the seat again in one of Glenwoods prepared cars which was kindly on offer again this year .
Hoping to fit entire front and rear suspension on my Dads and mine project 1600 Junior which has now been painted after painstaking preparation in South Africa . I will put pics up in another link . Hopefully customs in johannesburg don't look to hard through my luggage as they will find half of Classic Alfa Uk stock in there. What great guys to deal with if you have a 105 series .
In 14hrs I will be in 30 degrees in sunny SA to assist fellow competitors in this years annual Zwartkops international . Irritating I'm not racing this year but another year of lower spine rehab and I will be back in the seat again in one of Glenwoods prepared cars which was kindly on offer again this year .
Hoping to fit entire front and rear suspension on my Dads and mine project 1600 Junior which has now been painted after painstaking preparation in South Africa . I will put pics up in another link . Hopefully customs in johannesburg don't look to hard through my luggage as they will find half of Classic Alfa Uk stock in there. What great guys to deal with if you have a 105 series .
Re: Project 2 : front mount SA GTV 3.0 - Sei diff
Just fitted the original sump guard that comes standard on the South African cars . Also helps toward the chassis rail bracing . The fixings go internaly and not just welded to the thin guage steel . I often rode on this on the kerb in the final corner at Zwartkops . Damm more wait added .
- Attachments
-
- image.jpg (220.89 KiB) Viewed 7704 times
Re: Project 2 : front mount SA GTV 3.0 - Sei diff
With spring approaching I thought it was appropriate to do some testing on the back roads . I used my 17" tyres as I have discovered that my 15" brand new semi slicks are not road legal here in UK but somehow are approved in SA . Car goes extremely well but a real struggle to get traction with the old 17" tyres , short ratios , 50 kg rear springs on bumpy roads but what absolutely huge fun .
My fuel tank however keeps leaking on some welds even after rewelding it so thought it would be prudent to a professional to make a new rank with a totally different design as this is no longer a pure race car but more trackday , occasional race and possibly some hill climbs .
So new tank would need to hold more fuel ie 50 litres , baffled , foam filled , internal swirl pot , roll over valve , VDO sender unit facility , recessed site guage and stepped so two spare wheels can fit in the boot . Running an internal swirl pot requires a Facet red top pump to keep it fed as well .
AH fabrications were brilliant as I scribbled the design and sent it by email . The guys ( Lars Jones) made it exactly to the dimensions with superb welding .
I did not want any lugs this time on the tank as I have realised that's a huge mistake as it places stresses on pin point areas unlike spreading the loadings with a tray and straps .
This time I also wanted to fill the tank externally so the inlet on tank had to be fractionally lower than filler neck . I did not want to drill into the body to install a flush filler neck so got AH to modify their custom fillers ( 100% leak proof with O ring) which has a knurled cap . It sits just below level of body work and enough space to tighten firmly . Just waiting now for a 45 degree elbow 51mm flouro lined fuel pipe to join up and all the JiC fittings to hook it all up . Also need to close off old holes into boot where existing pipework came through with a proper plate and sealed o rings around the pipework .
Hopefully after Easter and some more finances work will continue
Some pics of progress now that suns out .
Pic of old tank
My fuel tank however keeps leaking on some welds even after rewelding it so thought it would be prudent to a professional to make a new rank with a totally different design as this is no longer a pure race car but more trackday , occasional race and possibly some hill climbs .
So new tank would need to hold more fuel ie 50 litres , baffled , foam filled , internal swirl pot , roll over valve , VDO sender unit facility , recessed site guage and stepped so two spare wheels can fit in the boot . Running an internal swirl pot requires a Facet red top pump to keep it fed as well .
AH fabrications were brilliant as I scribbled the design and sent it by email . The guys ( Lars Jones) made it exactly to the dimensions with superb welding .
I did not want any lugs this time on the tank as I have realised that's a huge mistake as it places stresses on pin point areas unlike spreading the loadings with a tray and straps .
This time I also wanted to fill the tank externally so the inlet on tank had to be fractionally lower than filler neck . I did not want to drill into the body to install a flush filler neck so got AH to modify their custom fillers ( 100% leak proof with O ring) which has a knurled cap . It sits just below level of body work and enough space to tighten firmly . Just waiting now for a 45 degree elbow 51mm flouro lined fuel pipe to join up and all the JiC fittings to hook it all up . Also need to close off old holes into boot where existing pipework came through with a proper plate and sealed o rings around the pipework .
Hopefully after Easter and some more finances work will continue
Some pics of progress now that suns out .
Pic of old tank
- Attachments
-
- image.jpg (166.42 KiB) Viewed 7645 times
Re: Project 2 : front mount SA GTV 3.0 - Sei diff
New tank . Note recess in rear of tank where diff is mounted to reinforced mounting plate in boot .
- Attachments
-
- image.jpg (109.5 KiB) Viewed 7580 times
-
- image.jpg (185.45 KiB) Viewed 7636 times
-
- image.jpg (146.63 KiB) Viewed 7645 times
Last edited by kevin on Tue Apr 21, 2015 2:33 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Re: Project 2 : front mount SA GTV 3.0 - Sei diff
The internal swirl pot which sits against right side of tank and its fittings .
Pic does not show cap is central but it is
The straps have rubber linings underneath them but still lots of work ahead to get it perfect .
Pic does not show cap is central but it is
The straps have rubber linings underneath them but still lots of work ahead to get it perfect .
- Attachments
-
- image.jpg (149.77 KiB) Viewed 7644 times
-
- image.jpg (169.09 KiB) Viewed 7644 times
-
- image.jpg (141.5 KiB) Viewed 7644 times
-
- image.jpg (118.28 KiB) Viewed 7644 times
-
- image.jpg (143.51 KiB) Viewed 7645 times
Re: Project 2 : front mount SA GTV 3.0 - Sei diff
And tank in position with packers provisionally . Propper fluoro lined silicone filler hose for petrol .
Between the shock towers are rubber wedges to prevent tank moving sideways . Thin Rubber padding also wraps behind the tank against body .
As the inboard discs are quite large and close to fuel line I have added a heat sheild . Also if their happens to be a leak on the connections the fuel drip will be deflected away from a hot disc brake .
Between the shock towers are rubber wedges to prevent tank moving sideways . Thin Rubber padding also wraps behind the tank against body .
As the inboard discs are quite large and close to fuel line I have added a heat sheild . Also if their happens to be a leak on the connections the fuel drip will be deflected away from a hot disc brake .
- Attachments
-
- image.jpg (225.7 KiB) Viewed 7569 times
-
- image.jpg (169.99 KiB) Viewed 7569 times
-
- image.jpg (199.16 KiB) Viewed 7576 times
-
- image.jpg (184.21 KiB) Viewed 7578 times
-
- image.jpg (176.58 KiB) Viewed 7644 times
Last edited by kevin on Mon Apr 27, 2015 8:22 am, edited 6 times in total.
Re: Project 2 : front mount SA GTV 3.0 - Sei diff
better.... much better
Re: Project 2 : front mount SA GTV 3.0 - Sei diff
The question is about the best way to demist a race car ( mine) with my aftermarket heater unit . My car does not have AC to help dehumidify the air while you blast the screen with the heater to raise the dew point and stop condensation .
Generally the car will be indoors over night so I won't need to cater for previous day trapped air with higher humidity coming into contact with the cold windscreen - like on my car that stands outside .
Getting back to question for my aftermarket heater that's piped in using existing water pipes and venting onto front window , should I recirculate the air that's in the cabin or draw in air from outside ?? In this instance I'm trying to demist on a rainy day ( very often in UK ) but in the summer months ( not that warm in the UK) .
http://www.t7design.co.uk/index.php?mai ... cts_id=180
Besides potatoes ,anti fog , breathing sideways , heated windscreen and tilting side windows which is the best way to go ? In my Giulietta I just push a button and hallelujah .
My thoughts at this stage is to possible have ducting to heater from inside and outside and then you switch over depending on outside air temp or the speed you driving at .
Also by not having and carpeting and insulation in the car the cabin temp would much hotter than normal so they are many variables !
Generally the car will be indoors over night so I won't need to cater for previous day trapped air with higher humidity coming into contact with the cold windscreen - like on my car that stands outside .
Getting back to question for my aftermarket heater that's piped in using existing water pipes and venting onto front window , should I recirculate the air that's in the cabin or draw in air from outside ?? In this instance I'm trying to demist on a rainy day ( very often in UK ) but in the summer months ( not that warm in the UK) .
http://www.t7design.co.uk/index.php?mai ... cts_id=180
Besides potatoes ,anti fog , breathing sideways , heated windscreen and tilting side windows which is the best way to go ? In my Giulietta I just push a button and hallelujah .
My thoughts at this stage is to possible have ducting to heater from inside and outside and then you switch over depending on outside air temp or the speed you driving at .
Also by not having and carpeting and insulation in the car the cabin temp would much hotter than normal so they are many variables !
- Attachments
-
- image.jpg (146.4 KiB) Viewed 7542 times
Re: Project 2 : front mount SA GTV 3.0 - Sei diff
Ahaaa. The Lone Ranger hasn't got the foggiest..never mind Kevin, keep taking them tablets and you will get over it.
Lemee see. Are you trying to demist ALL the interior windows or just the front windscreen?
Doing all the windows is going to take a lot of heat and to do it in a timely fashion, you may actually need to plumb a unit in the front and one at the rear of the cabin. Meantime buy yourself an ice water circulation suit cause its going to get tropical in there.
If its just the front windscreen, take the aftermarket unit back for a credit and re-install the original heater box and ducting. Before you do, just remove all the air conditioning core to get better air flow from the enclosure. That way you can re-instate all the original controls for it too.
Ford's approach to demisting is to use the airconditioner AND the heater on at the same time. Works well.
Lemee see. Are you trying to demist ALL the interior windows or just the front windscreen?
Doing all the windows is going to take a lot of heat and to do it in a timely fashion, you may actually need to plumb a unit in the front and one at the rear of the cabin. Meantime buy yourself an ice water circulation suit cause its going to get tropical in there.
If its just the front windscreen, take the aftermarket unit back for a credit and re-install the original heater box and ducting. Before you do, just remove all the air conditioning core to get better air flow from the enclosure. That way you can re-instate all the original controls for it too.
Ford's approach to demisting is to use the airconditioner AND the heater on at the same time. Works well.
Transaxle Alfas Haul More Arse
Re: Project 2 : front mount SA GTV 3.0 - Sei diff
Thanks Mr Fog unfortunately I dumped the old AC unit when I stripped the car in SA . However I will price up what a second hand heater unit from a scrapper GTV costs here but the way I have set up all my gauges and kill switch at the moment its not going to be simple to put the old unit back in .
I'm only looking to clear front windscreen as I have kept the rear heated window so maybe I'm just going to have to experiment with current heater / blower unit and see what results I get . This unit is what most of the kit cars and old classic rally cars use here so hopefully if I get it ducted effectively it should do the job . I would like to use longer thinner vents for the dash as well as in pic .
I'm only looking to clear front windscreen as I have kept the rear heated window so maybe I'm just going to have to experiment with current heater / blower unit and see what results I get . This unit is what most of the kit cars and old classic rally cars use here so hopefully if I get it ducted effectively it should do the job . I would like to use longer thinner vents for the dash as well as in pic .
- Attachments
-
- image.jpg (125.87 KiB) Viewed 7520 times
Re: Project 2 : front mount SA GTV 3.0 - Sei diff
Dear Foggy,
Been thinking.
I seem to remember when getting into a UK car parked in the street overnight that all the windows are fogged up. This means you cannot see your side mirrors nor through anything else. So in that scenario you would need heat distribution to:
1 The front windscreen in at least 4 places
2 Ducting to the side windows
3 Electric demisting of the hatch
You have 4 outlets in the new toy.
Use 2 to the dash and split each one again to achieve your 4 dashboard outlets
Use the remaining two and direct each one to the side windows left and right respectively.
To get some proportioning adjustment and flow balances, you may need to include some trimming vanes into your ducting.
..and if you still have't got the foggiest then I'll just have to come over and kick you up the foochoo
And if ALL THAT fails, get a hot bird to sit on your lap and do the steering. You may find the steamed up windows actually beneficial.
Been thinking.
I seem to remember when getting into a UK car parked in the street overnight that all the windows are fogged up. This means you cannot see your side mirrors nor through anything else. So in that scenario you would need heat distribution to:
1 The front windscreen in at least 4 places
2 Ducting to the side windows
3 Electric demisting of the hatch
You have 4 outlets in the new toy.
Use 2 to the dash and split each one again to achieve your 4 dashboard outlets
Use the remaining two and direct each one to the side windows left and right respectively.
To get some proportioning adjustment and flow balances, you may need to include some trimming vanes into your ducting.
..and if you still have't got the foggiest then I'll just have to come over and kick you up the foochoo
And if ALL THAT fails, get a hot bird to sit on your lap and do the steering. You may find the steamed up windows actually beneficial.
Last edited by MD on Sun May 31, 2015 9:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Transaxle Alfas Haul More Arse
Re: Project 2 : front mount SA GTV 3.0 - Sei diff
Old cars from the 60's and 70's just brought in outside air thru the heater and directed it to the windshield. Once you are driving crack the side windows open and that will take care of them. Your electric demister on the hatch will do fine. It does take a bit of time to do the demisting...engine warm-up, etc.
MR1 Zig (I made rate!)
Machinery Repairman USNR
Machinery Repairman USNR
Re: Project 2 : front mount SA GTV 3.0 - Sei diff
How about stuffing some thin layer of desiccant in strategic places in your car. If you can keep the interior mostly dry and the air inside it mostly dry then the chances of fogging will go down and will help the heater do the job. And those silica gels are re-usable. Rain-x has an anti-fog solution too, maybe at Halfords? I think you need a multi prong approach to this problem.
As far as strategic places, for example in MD's car he has it under his seat in case he goes in too deep in a turn without braking which in turns in induces a wet-in-the-pants moments . The desiccant ensures that he needs minimal cleanup afterwards.
It doesn't help any moments of brown-pants though . You need to ask JK's help for that.
As far as strategic places, for example in MD's car he has it under his seat in case he goes in too deep in a turn without braking which in turns in induces a wet-in-the-pants moments . The desiccant ensures that he needs minimal cleanup afterwards.
It doesn't help any moments of brown-pants though . You need to ask JK's help for that.