Z if you really want 155 cams i can ask around.
Another try at the gta pics
Disregard price differences, Saying your Calipers are both stock, What would you rather prefer, the vented SZ styled rear rotor ala Performatek, and Caliper widening, or these cross drilled slotted deals that both Internationsl and some others have? thickness is stock on the International ones basically to use your stock caliper, Thanks
Lenz, could you send me a picture or, best, a diagram with measurements of the modifications you had to do to fit the GTA calipers with the GTA discs in the 75?
Barry, You said you fitted the rear 155 calipers, and I guess they're about the same as the 164's ones. Could you create a Topic with the steps to follow to fit those outboard brakes?
Thank you beforehand.
Barry, You said you fitted the rear 155 calipers, and I guess they're about the same as the 164's ones. Could you create a Topic with the steps to follow to fit those outboard brakes?
Thank you beforehand.
'84 Red GTV6 3.0
hello.
if you kept the rear brake pressure limiter......
you willl never had to use bigger brakes in the rear !
unless, perhaps in some 1 hour of maximum hard braking of racing in your backyard mountains.....you can see some small problems of overheating.
you want to upgrade the rear feeling....the first thing to do is brake pads.
if you believe that you can get some heat trouble just go to rear vented discs brembo or other for a rz/sz. and caliper spacers.
if you kept the rear brake pressure limiter......
you willl never had to use bigger brakes in the rear !
unless, perhaps in some 1 hour of maximum hard braking of racing in your backyard mountains.....you can see some small problems of overheating.
you want to upgrade the rear feeling....the first thing to do is brake pads.
if you believe that you can get some heat trouble just go to rear vented discs brembo or other for a rz/sz. and caliper spacers.
2 stroke addict
Found a pair of 147GTA 4 pot calipers + 305mm disks + pads + pins at a good price off ebay a few weeks ago & have finally found a workshop that I trust to make the adapters !
Barry - One question of clarification... why are the caliper adaptors pictured earlier radially mounted? Rather than using Alfa GTA Brembo's as is - with an adapter to use both the factory GTV6 hub mounting holes plus the factory 4pot Brembo mounting holes too?
Am I missing some important info as I can't see why it won't work?
regards
Steve
Barry - One question of clarification... why are the caliper adaptors pictured earlier radially mounted? Rather than using Alfa GTA Brembo's as is - with an adapter to use both the factory GTV6 hub mounting holes plus the factory 4pot Brembo mounting holes too?
Am I missing some important info as I can't see why it won't work?
regards
Steve
83' GTV6, 3.0 24v supercharged
Having dismantled one of my front hubs over the weekend to have a good look I've just realised I was being stooopid! In that I didn't look closely enough at some of the pictures in earlier posts in this thread before posting an earlier question! 
OK, I have the exact same callipers as Lenz & his last picture above shows the problem - the mounting lugs on the calipers interfere with the mounting lugs on the hub. Such that the calipers can't get near enough to the "centre" on the hub for the 305mm GTA disks, let alone the std disks (unless you use disks of about 350mm diameter
)
I re-read Barry's posts and studied his photo of the hub on the car.... I now understand Barry's fix is to cut the lugs off the stub axle and re-weld them where they'll be in the right place. I missed this earlier - I was obviously suffering brain fade rather than brake fade!
OK I still have a problem in that I don't want to cut and weld the hub carrier because otherwise I can't go back to stock if I don't like what I've done for any reason.
I did lots of measuring up and I'm now thinking of milling two partial thickness "pockets" into the calipers so that the stock hub carrier lugs can intrude into the caliper allowing me to make a staightforward adaptor bracket to bridge the 4 mounting holes. The areas of the caliper where the pockets would be contain no fluid ways, obvious voids or bolts. It's just solid webbing and I'd make sure the inner cut edge of pockets would be radiused (to avoid leaving a stress focusing edge).
Any comments?
OK, I have the exact same callipers as Lenz & his last picture above shows the problem - the mounting lugs on the calipers interfere with the mounting lugs on the hub. Such that the calipers can't get near enough to the "centre" on the hub for the 305mm GTA disks, let alone the std disks (unless you use disks of about 350mm diameter
) I re-read Barry's posts and studied his photo of the hub on the car.... I now understand Barry's fix is to cut the lugs off the stub axle and re-weld them where they'll be in the right place. I missed this earlier - I was obviously suffering brain fade rather than brake fade!
OK I still have a problem in that I don't want to cut and weld the hub carrier because otherwise I can't go back to stock if I don't like what I've done for any reason.
I did lots of measuring up and I'm now thinking of milling two partial thickness "pockets" into the calipers so that the stock hub carrier lugs can intrude into the caliper allowing me to make a staightforward adaptor bracket to bridge the 4 mounting holes. The areas of the caliper where the pockets would be contain no fluid ways, obvious voids or bolts. It's just solid webbing and I'd make sure the inner cut edge of pockets would be radiused (to avoid leaving a stress focusing edge).
Any comments?
83' GTV6, 3.0 24v supercharged
The conversion looks much more difficult than I expected!!!!
Steve R, I have the same calipers and std 305mm discs as you, so we've got the same problem. I couldn't get any help from Lenz or Barry before, so I decided to wait. I hope we can find that help now!!!
Lenz, how did you do it?? Barry, suggestions??
Steve R, I have the same calipers and std 305mm discs as you, so we've got the same problem. I couldn't get any help from Lenz or Barry before, so I decided to wait. I hope we can find that help now!!!
Lenz, how did you do it?? Barry, suggestions??
'84 Red GTV6 3.0
Jose, i cut off the ears of the upright and machined the surface and than a steal plate was welded to the upright.
I tested the set up this weekend on the track and had no fading whatsoever, The brakes now feel like they do on modern alfa's, except for having some problems with the used BMW 25mm master wich needs a rebuild.
I tested the set up this weekend on the track and had no fading whatsoever, The brakes now feel like they do on modern alfa's, except for having some problems with the used BMW 25mm master wich needs a rebuild.
155 3.0 V6 24v Q2 NovaCorse
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Giulietta24vTT
- Gold
- Posts: 127
- Joined: Fri Jan 21, 2005 1:54 am
Jose,
I think the best solution for those wishing not to cut and weld the stock mounting ears is to laser cut the part that is tauching these ears exactly in the middle between the ears of the GTA caliper , the caliper will also have to sit like in the picture Lenz posted above , so that it could get closer for that extra 20-15mm between the centres on of the two pairs of holes (by radious of course).
Check out my setup , these aren't GTA ones but very close in mounting holes confi' ,and that's how the calipers ears should look like after the machining....
I think the best solution for those wishing not to cut and weld the stock mounting ears is to laser cut the part that is tauching these ears exactly in the middle between the ears of the GTA caliper , the caliper will also have to sit like in the picture Lenz posted above , so that it could get closer for that extra 20-15mm between the centres on of the two pairs of holes (by radious of course).
Check out my setup , these aren't GTA ones but very close in mounting holes confi' ,and that's how the calipers ears should look like after the machining....
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Chen S
ex Giulietta 24V Glenwood TT.
ex Giulietta 24V Glenwood TT.
Could you tell anybody there to build those brackets for me? How much would they cost? ThanksThanks "Guilietta", seems like the best approach to me as well. Point noted about mounting the caliper either up or down from standard location and just cutting one pocket, the less material removed the better I'd say. I now need to figure out whether up or down gives more clearance for suspension movement or full steering lock- sounds like some more measuring tonight!
Don't know if I can find a laser cutter locally, but a milling machine should be just as effective for the caliper and mounting bracket.
Jose I'll let you know how this works out. If it works I'll let you know the workshops price for another pair of brackets if you like?
Cheers
Steve
Don't know if I can find a laser cutter locally, but a milling machine should be just as effective for the caliper and mounting bracket.
Jose I'll let you know how this works out. If it works I'll let you know the workshops price for another pair of brackets if you like?
Cheers
Steve
83' GTV6, 3.0 24v supercharged
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Giulietta24vTT
- Gold
- Posts: 127
- Joined: Fri Jan 21, 2005 1:54 am
It should work fine with a good milling machine and skillfull hands,
I suggest you first calculate how much metal to mill from the caliper (I would clear to 5 mm from edge of the pads)
Then decide if mountin up or down , I would choose the location as far as possible from front anti roll bar so that the brake line entrance will not come close to the upper (of the "scooters") bush of the roll bar on hard cornering .
Then you could either measure the holes distances with good electric tool while caliper sits on disc while pad clears good from the edge, or go with a computer software and calculate the distances in the adapter according to the changes from the centre of the assembly on the radiuses and from bore(not verry easy but most accurate and possible).
Good luck!
I suggest you first calculate how much metal to mill from the caliper (I would clear to 5 mm from edge of the pads)
Then decide if mountin up or down , I would choose the location as far as possible from front anti roll bar so that the brake line entrance will not come close to the upper (of the "scooters") bush of the roll bar on hard cornering .
Then you could either measure the holes distances with good electric tool while caliper sits on disc while pad clears good from the edge, or go with a computer software and calculate the distances in the adapter according to the changes from the centre of the assembly on the radiuses and from bore(not verry easy but most accurate and possible).
Good luck!
Chen S
ex Giulietta 24V Glenwood TT.
ex Giulietta 24V Glenwood TT.